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Old 02-01-2005, 01:19 PM   #1
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Update:

So as of 4am last night, my car is up and running
She has a couple problems though, I searched and didn't come up with anything. Anyone have any answers for me?

I'm throwing a code 9...Cylinder 1 Position Sensor. I pulled apart my wiring and everything seems sound. Anyone have any ideas why that would be throwing?

Also, my coolant temperature guage does not really work. I'm told that there are two coolant temp sensors on my block, and I only have one plugged in, I'm not sure how the other one goes. I'm using my stock CRX DX harness, I converted it to MPFI and OBD-1 VTEC (Had a wiring mess, but it actually wasn't too bad).

I think I'm throwing another one but that's all I can remember for now. If anyone can help me that would be great. Thanks
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Old 02-01-2005, 01:34 PM   #2
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Since money is not an issue but the 2 harness; it will make life a lot easier.
(the dpfi to mpfi and the obd0 to obd1)

Here is one option Hasport

Here is a second option Ebay

Here is a third option Google search
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Old 02-01-2005, 04:37 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally posted by projectxspeed@Feb 1 2005, 02:34 PM
Since money is not an issue but the 2 harness; it will make life a lot easier.
(the dpfi to mpfi and the obd0 to obd1)

Here is one option Hasport

Here is a second option Ebay

Here is a third option Google search
I'd love the Hasport harness, but it says "Customer Core Required to Build"...I don't have that kind of time
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Old 02-01-2005, 05:03 PM   #4
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it takes a week.......i did it last week ...... or spend hours doing all the other wiring.....264 shipped back to you.... also take off the suspension on the teg for the crx....
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Old 02-01-2005, 08:19 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally posted by formby@Feb 1 2005, 06:03 PM
it takes a week.......i did it last week ...... or spend hours doing all the other wiring.....264 shipped back to you.... also take off the suspension on the teg for the crx....
Yea I'm going to...

So no one has any other answers for me?
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Old 02-01-2005, 08:28 PM   #6
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here is a fourth option

http://locashracing.com/store/index.php?cP...6f39ed64e276733

no need for a core and total kit runs around $225
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Old 02-10-2005, 03:47 PM   #7
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Does anyone have information about the resistor box for me, though? Do I even need one?
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Old 02-10-2005, 03:58 PM   #8
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why not just swap the whole wire harness from the teg?
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Old 02-10-2005, 08:27 PM   #9
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that'd be hard and probably more time consuming than waiting on the new harness to ship from locash or hasport
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Old 02-10-2005, 10:43 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally posted by lax1185@Feb 10 2005, 01:47 PM
Does anyone have information about the resistor box for me, though? Do I even need one?
if you are going OBD1, you don't need the resistor box - you are going to need mount kit, shift linkage and axles
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Old 02-11-2005, 08:25 PM   #11
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resisitor box is only for obd 0 injectures which are called "peak and hold injectors" they use a resistor box to lower volatage so that the coils in the injectors dont burn out, the reason obd 1 injectors (which are called "saturated" injectors) dont need a resistor box, mainly is because the fuel is fed into the injector from the top which helps cool down the coils inside. and "resistor box injectors" feed fuel from the bottom and it doesnt cool the coils..... lol some dork payed attention in school last week!! :P

so yeah, if you are going to use the engine as obd 1, then no you dont need a resistor box.


i got a funny feeling, cause what year did integras convert to obd 1?? wasnt it 94?? i got a 92 integra GS and its obd 0. and the b17 came in 93 teggy's. so im not sure if tht was the year they changed to obd 1, i thought it was 94, but hey, im probably wrong so double check that!
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Old 02-11-2005, 11:52 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally posted by DelSlo@Feb 11 2005, 06:25 PM
i got a funny feeling, cause what year did integras convert to obd 1?? wasnt it 94?? i got a 92 integra GS and its obd 0. and the b17 came in 93 teggy's. so im not sure if tht was the year they changed to obd 1, i thought it was 94, but hey, im probably wrong so double check that!
i had the same thought, since the B18A1 90-93 are OBD0 - that is why i worded it "if you are going OBD1"
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Old 02-12-2005, 02:26 AM   #13
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Wrong, all cars 92-95 are obd1 regardless of what the motor cast is. Obd0 is 88-91
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Old 02-12-2005, 08:35 AM   #14
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why not stay OBD0, do the DX-->MPFI, add V-TEC and run a B16 ecu?
im sure the ecu can compensate for the .1l extra
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Old 02-12-2005, 11:17 AM   #15
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Save time, money and get better service here:

www.Rywire.com

He uses my harnesses and has MPFI in stock.

Jason
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Old 02-13-2005, 07:01 PM   #16
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I dont know if you guys even helped him out really... I did the swap. B17a into a 91 CRX DX. Got the HASPORT wiring harness. Then bought the OBD0->OBD1 jumper. PR3 OBD1 ecu to go along with it. NOW.. car wont run.. just turns over. I got all the digrams. Wired up the sub-harness. Double checked it all... Does anyone have any idea WHAT THE PROBLEM CAN BE!!!!!
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Old 02-18-2005, 02:11 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally posted by DB2terp1298@Feb 13 2005, 07:01 PM
I dont know if you guys even helped him out really... I did the swap. B17a into a 91 CRX DX. Got the HASPORT wiring harness. Then bought the OBD0->OBD1 jumper. PR3 OBD1 ecu to go along with it. NOW.. car wont run.. just turns over. I got all the digrams. Wired up the sub-harness. Double checked it all... Does anyone have any idea WHAT THE PROBLEM CAN BE!!!!!
Any codes? What distributor are you running? Who did the MPFI wiring?
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Old 02-18-2005, 03:19 AM   #18
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no codes... just wont start. OBD1 distrib but all the wiring was done by HASPORT. Has the sub harness comin through the firewall. i think the problem is in the OBD0->OBD1 ECU jumper. it has its subharness also, but i dont think its wired up sensor for sensor like HASPORT does all their shit. This jumper is pretty much for the VTEC.... any ideas?
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Old 02-18-2005, 05:42 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally posted by DB2terp1298@Feb 18 2005, 03:19 AM
no codes... just wont start. OBD1 distrib but all the wiring was done by HASPORT. Has the sub harness comin through the firewall. i think the problem is in the OBD0->OBD1 ECU jumper. it has its subharness also, but i dont think its wired up sensor for sensor like HASPORT does all their shit. This jumper is pretty much for the VTEC.... any ideas?


ok so all teggys 91-93 are obd 1??? hmm. why do they have clear plugs then?? anyone else backup projects claim? this is weird!



and hey, start with the basics man, check spark and fuel and timing. you cant just say it wont start, whats the problem, if you have no clue how to do any of that, shouldnt have even walked into a swap! these things are almost expected
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Old 02-18-2005, 06:08 PM   #20
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Thats not what I said , read my post again.
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Old 02-18-2005, 09:16 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally posted by projectxspeed@Feb 12 2005, 02:26 AM
Wrong, all cars 92-95 are obd1 regardless of what the motor cast is. Obd0 is 88-91

maybe i misunderstood then, but doesnt what you just said mean that a 92 integra would be obd 1??
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Old 02-18-2005, 11:26 PM   #22
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Yes an 1992 integra should have an 0bd1 setup. You should take pictures of your engine bay for us to see.
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Old 02-20-2005, 02:23 PM   #23
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up for a new question
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Old 02-20-2005, 02:29 PM   #24
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Are you sure its a 1992; it sounds like it is a 1991 integra which would be obd0. You really need to get your electronics straight before anyone can answer why you are throwing the codes you are. TAKE PICTURES
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Old 02-20-2005, 06:04 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally posted by projectxspeed@Feb 20 2005, 03:29 PM
Are you sure its a 1992; it sounds like it is a 1991 integra which would be obd0. You really need to get your electronics straight before anyone can answer why you are throwing the codes you are. TAKE PICTURES
Didn't know that initial question was directed towards me...sorry.

The engine is OBD-1. All 92 and up's are OBD-1, I know my engine is 92 (I have the title). There is no doubt about it being an OBD-1 swap. I have an OBD-0 to OBD-1 Conversion harness hooked up and wired in. Its my understanding that I may always throw the Cylinder Position Sensor code because of how my swap is wired, however I'm going to follow some instructions on how to check if my distributor is bad, I know that it's been whored around quite a lot before it reached my hands.

Nother problem I'm noticing...the temperature guage reads all the way at the bottom. If I keep the revs around 3500-4k for a good 20 minutes or so she goes up, but then as soon as I slow down for a stop sign and what not, it goes right back down. I'm guessing this is a coolant temperature sensor issue as well?
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