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LOWLIFE · 08-03-2009, 10:13 PM

yes but the hydrolics would take all the stress off of the clutch cable and the nut that stripped and broke.

BonesZ33 · 08-05-2009, 10:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LOWLIFE

yes but the hydrolics would take all the stress off of the clutch cable and the nut that stripped and broke.

hm.. i guess you are right.. i will definately consider this option

CAFROG · 08-06-2009, 12:19 PM

I dont think its any different then your set up now (in terms of stripping that crappy plastic thread on the cable)

BonesZ33 · 08-07-2009, 01:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CAFROG

I dont think its any different then your set up now (in terms of stripping that crappy plastic thread on the cable)

this is the reason im skeptical to spend 250 dollars for no reason

skellagher · 08-07-2009, 05:44 PM

yea i hear ya i have a hydro ex/si tranny and i would like to gamble with that and see whats up with it but i wanna see a review or something first.

CAFROG · 08-07-2009, 07:39 PM

For $250....man you should be able to do the whole conversion for cheaper then that (used stuff obviously)

greddy_ek9 · 08-08-2009, 06:53 AM

what would be a good valvetrain 2 put in my high comp b20vtec build..wannna break atleast 200hp...n how big can i go with the cams....

mods...
85mm wiseco piston
11.5-1 comp

LOWLIFE · 08-10-2009, 11:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CAFROG

I dont think its any different then your set up now (in terms of stripping that crappy plastic thread on the cable)

no its completely different... the master cylinder is using hydrolics to do the work.

BonesZ33 · 08-15-2009, 02:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LOWLIFE

no its completely different... the master cylinder is using hydrolics to do the work.

but the hydrolic cylinder is pushed using the actual cable and plastic screw still.. the only thing different is it "might" take off some resitance.. but i don't plan to spend 250$ just to "see" if it would lighten the resistance a little bit.. id rather fix the problem as a whole instead of working around it.. by either eliminating the clutch cable as a whole or finding a stronger one which is what this thread is about

LOWLIFE · 08-16-2009, 02:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BonesZ33

but the hydrolic cylinder is pushed using the actual cable and plastic screw still.. the only thing different is it "might" take off some resitance.. but i don't plan to spend 250$ just to "see" if it would lighten the resistance a little bit.. id rather fix the problem as a whole instead of working around it.. by either eliminating the clutch cable as a whole or finding a stronger one which is what this thread is about

well if you wanna do a complete swap do it. its al up to you.

but if you understand how hydraulics work at all then i think it would be easy to see that it would take pretty much ALL of the effort off of the clutch cable.

good example. your braking system, easy to stop the car with the car running and some vacuum car not running and no vac = hard to stop.

need a better example? drive a vehicle with hydraboost brake system they use pressure from power steering to assist in braking power. ok now turn that vehicle off, PITA to steer.

or think about how a hydraulic ram works. ever wonder why so many professional rock crawlers dont run gear boxes and run hydraulic steering only? its cause when bound up and flexed out its sometimes nearly impossible to to turn even with really powerful power steering.

still not good enough?
drive a car with power steering. its easy to drive and turn at a stop right? ok now take the same car and pull the power steering belt off of it. MAJOR Pain to steer espically at a dead stop. in fact so much so that a vehicle that came with manual steering is easier to turn at that point.

all of these are via hydraulics. if you have even driven some old farm equipment or a really old truck and used the fully mechanical brakes you would know it takes ALOT of force on the pedal to stop these vehicles.

BonesZ33 · 08-17-2009, 07:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LOWLIFE

well if you wanna do a complete swap do it. its al up to you.

but if you understand how hydraulics work at all then i think it would be easy to see that it would take pretty much ALL of the effort off of the clutch cable.

good example. your braking system, easy to stop the car with the car running and some vacuum car not running and no vac = hard to stop.

need a better example? drive a vehicle with hydraboost brake system they use pressure from power steering to assist in braking power. ok now turn that vehicle off, PITA to steer.

or think about how a hydraulic ram works. ever wonder why so many professional rock crawlers dont run gear boxes and run hydraulic steering only? its cause when bound up and flexed out its sometimes nearly impossible to to turn even with really powerful power steering.

still not good enough?
drive a car with power steering. its easy to drive and turn at a stop right? ok now take the same car and pull the power steering belt off of it. MAJOR Pain to steer espically at a dead stop. in fact so much so that a vehicle that came with manual steering is easier to turn at that point.

all of these are via hydraulics. if you have even driven some old farm equipment or a really old truck and used the fully mechanical brakes you would know it takes ALOT of force on the pedal to stop these vehicles.

Since the system is 250$.. and the fact that it isn't correcting the problem adressed which is the plastic screw breaking on the clutch cable i'm not going to bother looking into this any farther.

You mentioned the brake cable being stiff untill you turned the car on so the brake booster which is run by vacum can do its job and make the brake much easier.. well since this hydrolic cable to hydro tranny converter isn't using a forum of vacum or a booster to ease stress .. it is simply relying soley on the clutch cable for operation.. who are you to say that my clutch setup isn't stiff enough to put enought stress on the cable even with this new hydrolic converter?..

until somebody with the same exact setup comes along and says i have a compition stage 5 clutch and flywheel and i am running this with a stock clutch cable and plastic screw and it has laster me a year.. id rather not spend 250 dollars on it..

anyways if anybody cares about the actual topic.. which was how to correct or avoid using a plastic clutch cable.. i found one which utilizes METAL threads...

after i purchase and install this iwill reportback on its strenght

BonesZ33 · 09-18-2009, 12:49 PM

if anybody is interested in what happened with my new clutch cable .. as you can see the threads of the cable are METAL.. but the screw is still PLASTIC.. so after about 3 weeks the plastic screw decided to break again. What i did was take a castle nut and cut an very small hole in one of the sides to accomidate for the clutch line and slipped the castle nut onto the metal threads..You can use any other nut that will fit the threads i just happened to have a castle nut .. Now i have a clutch cable with metal threads and a metal nut and its been working great..

oh and the nut wasn't very wide so i used a big metal washer to make sure the rubber part was not destroyed.. if you have any questions let me know

skellagher · 09-18-2009, 11:53 PM

i have no problem with my clutch cable i have a stage 4 on my b16 now no problems AT ALL

BonesZ33 · 09-19-2009, 09:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by skellagher

i have no problem with my clutch cable i have a stage 4 on my b16 now no problems AT ALL

I am glad to hear that.. however i am not so lucky.. my clutch setup and cable to hydro conversion seems to be very stiff.

95EGCoupeVtec · 09-21-2009, 11:22 AM

For future reference, what vehicle was cable the for and what size threads were on nut that u used? that way people know what to use incase they need to do this too.

BonesZ33 · 09-21-2009, 12:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 95EGCoupeVtec

For future reference, what vehicle was cable the for and what size threads were on nut that u used? that way people know what to use incase they need to do this too.

this cable is for an integra DA.. but it is not a honda part.. it is an aftermarket company that makes the clutch cable for the DA with metal threads.. I got mine off ebay but i've seen some auto part stores cary it.. you have to look at the picture of itbecause the description will not say if it is metal or plastic. The thread size fits the castle nuts that are on the ball joints of all hondas.. i don't know the size its either 17 or 19mm

BonesZ33 · 10-21-2009, 11:13 AM

If anybody is interested in how my custom bolt is holding up it is great. No problems

08-06-2009, 12:19 PM	#28
CAFROG Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: NOR-CAL Age: 33 Posts: 978 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: '92 Hatch si w/B16 (wannabe EG6) Rep Power: 26	I dont think its any different then your set up now (in terms of stripping that crappy plastic thread on the cable) __________________ "Meow, you know how fast your were going back there?" http://hondaswap.com/hybrid-eg-ek-dc...si-b16-286581/

08-07-2009, 05:44 PM	#30
skellagher Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Newark, De Posts: 131 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 90 civic ex 4 dr B16 Rep Power: 6	yea i hear ya i have a hydro ex/si tranny and i would like to gamble with that and see whats up with it but i wanna see a review or something first. __________________ 1993 Chevy Corsica...R.I.P 1990 Plymouth Acclaim...R.I.P 1991 Ford Mustang 4cyl...SOLD 1993 Buick Regal ...SOLD 1993 Taurus S.H.O...R.I.P 1986 Olds Cutlass...R.I.P 1991 Integra ls special...R.I.P 1997 Integra ls auto...R.I.P 1989 Integra ls...R.I.P 1988 Ford Thunderbird 5.0...SOLD 1993 240Sx ...SOLD 1995 Civic D15b7 mini me w/ z6 head ......R.I.P 1994 Civic EX Coupe ... In middle of 5 speed swap..R.I.P 1988 Civic Dx d16y7... SOLD 1990 Civic Ex B16 "with a single intake cam"<~~~CURRENT

08-07-2009, 07:39 PM	#31
CAFROG Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: NOR-CAL Age: 33 Posts: 978 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: '92 Hatch si w/B16 (wannabe EG6) Rep Power: 26	For $250....man you should be able to do the whole conversion for cheaper then that (used stuff obviously) __________________ "Meow, you know how fast your were going back there?" http://hondaswap.com/hybrid-eg-ek-dc...si-b16-286581/

08-08-2009, 06:53 AM	#32
greddy_ek9 Junior Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Posts: 9 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 0	b20vtec build... what would be a good valvetrain 2 put in my high comp b20vtec build..wannna break atleast 200hp...n how big can i go with the cams.... mods... 85mm wiseco piston 11.5-1 comp

09-18-2009, 11:53 PM	#38
skellagher Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Newark, De Posts: 131 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 90 civic ex 4 dr B16 Rep Power: 6	i have no problem with my clutch cable i have a stage 4 on my b16 now no problems AT ALL __________________ 1993 Chevy Corsica...R.I.P 1990 Plymouth Acclaim...R.I.P 1991 Ford Mustang 4cyl...SOLD 1993 Buick Regal ...SOLD 1993 Taurus S.H.O...R.I.P 1986 Olds Cutlass...R.I.P 1991 Integra ls special...R.I.P 1997 Integra ls auto...R.I.P 1989 Integra ls...R.I.P 1988 Ford Thunderbird 5.0...SOLD 1993 240Sx ...SOLD 1995 Civic D15b7 mini me w/ z6 head ......R.I.P 1994 Civic EX Coupe ... In middle of 5 speed swap..R.I.P 1988 Civic Dx d16y7... SOLD 1990 Civic Ex B16 "with a single intake cam"<~~~CURRENT


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08-03-2009, 10:13 PM	#26
LOWLIFE Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Fort Worthless Age: 22 Posts: 48 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 91 Civic Hatchy Rep Power: 1	yes but the hydrolics would take all the stress off of the clutch cable and the nut that stripped and broke.

09-18-2009, 12:49 PM	#37
BonesZ33 Junior Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Burlington, NC Age: 22 Posts: 22 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: FD3S rx7 Rep Power: 1	if anybody is interested in what happened with my new clutch cable .. as you can see the threads of the cable are METAL.. but the screw is still PLASTIC.. so after about 3 weeks the plastic screw decided to break again. What i did was take a castle nut and cut an very small hole in one of the sides to accomidate for the clutch line and slipped the castle nut onto the metal threads..You can use any other nut that will fit the threads i just happened to have a castle nut .. Now i have a clutch cable with metal threads and a metal nut and its been working great.. oh and the nut wasn't very wide so i used a big metal washer to make sure the rubber part was not destroyed.. if you have any questions let me know

09-21-2009, 11:22 AM	#40
95EGCoupeVtec SOHC VTEC at its best Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: South Mississippi Age: 25 Posts: 265 iTrader: 1 / 100% Ride: 95 Civic EX Coupe Rep Power: 6	For future reference, what vehicle was cable the for and what size threads were on nut that u used? that way people know what to use incase they need to do this too. __________________ 95 Civic EX Coupe: GSR suspension rear LCAs & tie bar no PS or A/C Turbonetics t3/t4B (ceramic ball bearing) Super V Trim, Stg 2 .48 A/R Xenocron chipped ecu Greddy Type RS bov Tial 38mm WG GOAUTOWORKS cast mani, 3" DP, WG dump, & oil lines Spearco Intercooler 450cc DSM blue tops walbro 255 HG and ARP studs Aluminum rad/fan combo from GoAutoworks Competition Clutch Stg5 w/4puck disk BF Goodrich Drag Radials Soon to have: 15" Rota Slipstreams tune by Darren in Baton Rouge, LA

10-21-2009, 11:13 AM	#42
BonesZ33 Junior Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Burlington, NC Age: 22 Posts: 22 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: FD3S rx7 Rep Power: 1	If anybody is interested in how my custom bolt is holding up it is great. No problems

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Clutch cable help .. Cable to Hydro Integra