d16z6 in 89 hf

Havent been here in a long while but what better resource for solving problems swap related. I finally got everything needed for this swap... d16z6, p28 ecu, conversion wiring harness from rywire, etc. Got it all in and hooked up. I had drained the fuel tank as I was sure the gas had gummed since the crx had sat so long. To my surprise it was bad and I replaced the bad with new fuel, hooked it all back up. Tried to crank the engine for the first time. I think I may have forgotten to tighten down the fuel delivery line from the fuel pump because when the key is turned to the acc position fuel drips underneath the car. Finally, after explaining all this the question is, will a lack of fuel pressure hinder the car from cranking? Spark is good, plenty of air, and assuming compression is good, the only thing I can think of is lack of fuel pressure since I'm leaking. I am getting fuel to the rail, with a decent drip under the car. The P28, by the way, came from rywire so I'm sure its in working order since they test all before shipping. The Hf died with the stock motor in before swapping, I took it to the shop and they told me it was the distributor after paying an arm and leg for a new dizzy it still didnt crank so I took it back to the same shop and it sat there for nearly 3 months before I became frustrated and took it home preparing to swap. They told me they thought it was bad gas, and it seemed to be flooding. I cant help but think, even after swapping a totally different motor, that the shell may have something wrong with it and that is the reason the d16z6 wont crank. I'm kinda at the end of the rope so-to-speak. Any ideas? Sorry for the rambling any/all help is greatly appreciated. Thanks

Tony

I had also heard somewhere that there is an imperative ground that must be connected to run the d16z6 in an hf shell. I have the main ground for the battery connected, as well as the one to the valve cover. Am I missing one? Also is there a diagram for getting the TPS wires straight? I was also told that if it wasnt just right that once cranked for the first time the car may run wide open throttle. true? not true? elaboration? This has been a dream of mine for a long long time to have a d16z6 in a crx/hatch... I finally have one but it dont run. talk about pissing in my cheerios. Thanks in advance, again.

Tony

did you ground the wire by the thermostat housing? there should be a hooped set of wires on the engine wire harness near the housing. you need to switch the outside wires on the tps plug. the only one that stays the same is the middle wire which i believe is the red one.

didnt ground anything to the thermostat housing but also didnt know there was a ground connection there. do you happen to have pics of this ground location. As far as the tps connections I need to know color codes of the wires from the wire closest to the ground to the wire closest to the hood. thanks

just got my p28 like i mentioned above. No LED and I'm now understanding that they didnt have one. how would you go about diagnosing problems without that wonderful blinking light?

on the tps the colors should be yellow, red, green. should look somethin like this

TPS GREEN----YELLOW
PLUG RED-------RED
YELLOW--GREEN


i dont think i have a pic of that other ground right now but its a set of either 2 to 4 wires that have a hoop on the engine wire harness. it should be near the thermostat area. i didnt know it went there either when i did my swap. ill try to get pics later today if you are still havin problems with it.

Did you drain it like this?



Where is it leaking fuel?
If its in the front of the car, under the motor, you might check the fuel filter and fuel rail connection points. Perhaps change the brass washers too.

drained it just like that... found the leak, it was the connection right on top of the fuel tank. Tightened it, no leak, plenty of fuel pressure now. Also getting spark. It acts as though it wants to crank now, after letting off the key (turned in start position) it releases what seems to be the compression from the cylinders. Almost like its backfiring. I got this motor from a friend of mine who had absolutely no Idea how this was setup in another crx. Now that I got the engine from an idiot, it seems to have rubbed off a bit. He doesnt know if the engine was using obd0 or obd1 injectors. If they are obd0 the resistor box isnt required right? It is required if you are using obd1 injectors... atleast I think this is correct. Now if I were to unplug the resistor box and it had obd1 injectors in would it fry the injectors? How can I determine if I have obd0 or obd1 injectors? Thanks again guys... oh almost forgot the thermo housing ground is hooked up.

its the other way around. you need the resistor box if using obd0 injectors and you dont need it if using obd1.

ok now that I think of it I did have it backwards... thanks for the correction.

both the solenoid and the thermostat housing are grounded... what gives?

I never recieved directions telling me to hook up a toggle switch to check codes... the only directions I recieved from rywire were which wires to hook up for the 4 wire o2 sensor... how do you use a toggle switch to check codes?

toggle switch for diagnosis with a p28 ecu?

bump

bump

Your getting spark, but are you sure your firing order is right?

firing order is correct... not exactly sure where to find the jumper to make a connection to... is it on the driver side footwell or passenger? its a blue plug right? you just make a connection using a wire at that plug right? If I could find the plug I'd be in good shape. Thanks again guys.

Tony

on the passenger side footwell, under the glove box.
It is indeed the blue plug, that you can use either a wire or a paperclip to jump it.
then turn the key to #1 position, and start counting the CEL.

I'll get codes posted for this bad boy asap... I'm itching to drive this thing

why would I lie about not getting the directions... I read all papers included in the shipping box that the harness came in. I'm very meticulous when it comes to wiring. I am already not to pleased with the service I received from rywire, that and you calling me a liar is just not right. I'm frustrated and want the car to run as bad as anyone else who has just completed a swap. Only after reading partial directions to find out I should have received more thorough directions in the first place. A toggle switch is the least of my worries right now. 1st I'll get the car running, then I'll worry about a toggle switch. Thank you for the advice, but I think I will work within my means, use a paper clip for the time being, then later I will hook up a toggle switch. I'm glad your d16z6 fired right up, mine didnt.