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05-03-2006, 11:50 AM
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#1 |
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TTIWWOP
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: 845 Area, NY
Age: 28
Posts: 14,278
iTrader: 0 / 0%
Ride: 1990 sohc vtec-t hatch, 1994 Bagged S10, 1991 Lifted Mazda
Rep Power: 238
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ok, so i've got this 90 hatch, DPFI/auto tranny
the thing has a no run issue the main relay is clicking as fast a rabbits fuck and the brown top injector (upper injector) is firing off like crazy, in unison with the main relay clicking... i have a suspicion that the ECU has shit the bed, and that is whats making the injector/main relay click so fast like that its noticeably loud... i've changed out the brown top injector with 2 other ones, and i've tried 3 diffrent main relays... the only other obd0 ecu i have is for a manual hatch, it doesn't do the clicking, but it also doesn't start the car... ideas? |
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05-03-2006, 03:22 PM
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#2 | |
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übber Ninja Pirate
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 973
iTrader: 1 / 100%
Ride: 2007 Zenn 2.2 Lx, 1998 Suzuki GS500, 1990 CRX HF (stock)
Rep Power: 33
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(reckedracing @ May 3 2006, 11:50 AM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
ok, so i've got this 90 hatch, DPFI/auto tranny the thing has a no run issue the main relay is clicking as fast a rabbits fuck and the brown top injector (upper injector) is firing off like crazy, in unison with the main relay clicking... i have a suspicion that the ECU has shit the bed, and that is whats making the injector/main relay click so fast like that its noticeably loud... i've changed out the brown top injector with 2 other ones, and i've tried 3 diffrent main relays... the only other obd0 ecu i have is for a manual hatch, it doesn't do the clicking, but it also doesn't start the car... ideas? [/b][/quote] ECU Fuse, and check all your fuses. My condensor fan fuse crapped out and my car wouldnt start charged the battery changed the fuse started up
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05-04-2006, 11:12 AM
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#3 | |||
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The Kicker of Elves.
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Convert to manual? [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/268.gif[/img]
__________________
Don't misinterpret what I say. Quote:
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05-04-2006, 01:38 PM
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#4 |
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Junior Member
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(reckedracing @ May 3 2006, 10:50 AM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
ok, so i've got this 90 hatch, DPFI/auto tranny the thing has a no run issue the main relay is clicking as fast a rabbits fuck and the brown top injector (upper injector) is firing off like crazy, in unison with the main relay clicking... i have a suspicion that the ECU has shit the bed, and that is whats making the injector/main relay click so fast like that its noticeably loud... i've changed out the brown top injector with 2 other ones, and i've tried 3 diffrent main relays... the only other obd0 ecu i have is for a manual hatch, it doesn't do the clicking, but it also doesn't start the car... ideas? [/b][/quote] ck all engine ground wires,sounds like a bad connection |
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05-12-2006, 12:33 PM
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#5 |
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TTIWWOP
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: 845 Area, NY
Age: 28
Posts: 14,278
iTrader: 0 / 0%
Ride: 1990 sohc vtec-t hatch, 1994 Bagged S10, 1991 Lifted Mazda
Rep Power: 238
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ok, here's an update
i got the helms and found out that the ECU LED flashing 16 times = a fuel injector problem and i also ran all the main relay tests as per helms and at least one of the 5 main relays i have is good the helms i have is for MPFI and its saying to listen for injector clicking well i know the injector is clicking about 300 times a minute so its pointing back to either the ECU or some other electrical problem i need the helms for DPFI |
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05-19-2006, 03:15 AM
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#6 |
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Senior Member
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My roomate had the same problem before we converted to MPFI. He pulled an underdash main relay, popped the top off and all the solder points inside were cracked. He heated them up and put a new dot on each one... works fine now. Just something to check not sure if it will fix your prob.
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05-19-2006, 09:46 AM
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#7 |
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TTIWWOP
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: 845 Area, NY
Age: 28
Posts: 14,278
iTrader: 0 / 0%
Ride: 1990 sohc vtec-t hatch, 1994 Bagged S10, 1991 Lifted Mazda
Rep Power: 238
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well, thanks for the reply but i've checked the main relay as per helms step by step diagnostics and it checks out...
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05-19-2006, 07:32 PM
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#8 |
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Senior Member
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check the map sensor. my relay was messing up and the fuel pump wasnt priming, turned out to be the crappy wiring job i did on my 2.5 bar. theres a fairly large circut, with several sensors on it that causes the relay to kick over like that, one bad wire or sensor on there will make it do that.
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05-21-2006, 07:15 PM
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#9 |
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Junior Member
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I just did a swap for a friend and had the same situation with the clicking, Ended up being a loose ground on the starter. I would look around like the other poster said above for a loose or missing ground.
__________________
Honda/Acura swap subharness OBD0/1/2 $25 (includes plug, wiring to ecu, ecu pin (excl. obd2), shielding, instructions Sensor plug harnesses - IAB, Knock, 2nd O2, VTEC solenoid, VTEC pressure switch, etc $10 Single sensor plugs - IAB, Knock, 2nd O2, VTEC solenoid, VTEC pressure switch etc $5 Distributor Adaptors OBD0-1 $20 ECU Pins OBD0/1 $1 each HTTP://WWW.HONDAPARTSHERO.COM\ HONDAPARTSHERO@AOL.COM |
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05-22-2006, 02:54 PM
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#10 |
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TTIWWOP
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: 845 Area, NY
Age: 28
Posts: 14,278
iTrader: 0 / 0%
Ride: 1990 sohc vtec-t hatch, 1994 Bagged S10, 1991 Lifted Mazda
Rep Power: 238
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the motor has several grounds right off the head and valve cover
we put jumper cables directly from the battery negative to the top ear of the distributor as well as one of the valve cover bolts with no change we ended up getting another DPFI auto ecu from the junkyard on saturday as the car sits right now, if you turn it over it will turn over and fire every once in a while, like its only hitting on one cylinder the new ecu = no hitting at all, and the main relay clicks much faster... still baffled by this car and its driving me crazy |
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05-25-2006, 12:53 PM
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#11 |
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TTIWWOP
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: 845 Area, NY
Age: 28
Posts: 14,278
iTrader: 0 / 0%
Ride: 1990 sohc vtec-t hatch, 1994 Bagged S10, 1991 Lifted Mazda
Rep Power: 238
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well, it turns out that it was the main group of grounds in the engine harness that go to the top of the thermostat housing
apparently the guy who previously owned the car changed the motor and it never started again, becuase he didn't tighten the 10mm bolt... fucker thanks for all the replies |
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