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Old 10-31-2009, 07:27 PM   #26
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that car is hurt man...but anyway..
whatst he plans?
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Old 10-31-2009, 08:00 PM   #27
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Well, I am not expecting a miracle with this one but I want Forced Induction. Boosting is something I am new to and can't wait to start.

I am not wanting to spend everything I've got on this one so I have decided to do a Vitara Build and most likely use Eagle Rods but I have heard good things about FJT Custom length Rods. I will definitely be using a intercooler, bisimoto cam most likely. I am probably not going to sleeve it. Thinking of a t3/t4 turbo unless I can find something better for the price. I will be spending around 3500 to get started. I am going to tune it for N/A with the low compression and Dyno test, then try the turbo setup and Dyno test again. Think 250-300hp will be hard to obtain with all of the recourses available of people who have done Vitara's before? Apparently after 600hp the vitara's disintegrate... I have seen Sohc builds up to 700hp so I am not too worried about 250. If I can take it to the track next summer and run 14's I will be happy with it, but we all know that it's never enough but I will be building this over a long period of time, Probably Rebuilding some too.
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Old 10-31-2009, 09:20 PM   #28
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id just g with the eagle rods..your best bet would be to buy an ebay turbo kit..then upgrade the mani and the compressor..
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Old 10-31-2009, 10:24 PM   #29
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250hp in a CRX should easily net 13's with decent driving.
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Old 11-01-2009, 12:27 AM   #30
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Ebay it is, If I have enough left over then I will net an extra set of Mickey Thomson's hopefully. I am dreaming and drooling over most of the parts I would like to have on this budget build but hopefully all goes well.
My shifting sucks ass, my best run with the a6 was a 16.24 and I miss 3rd sometimes. Still getting used to the short gears unlike my Rx-7 and 240sx before this project car. I think it's because I am not double clutchin' like I should. lol I am looking for a good place to order a Intake Mani, any ideas besides Golden Eagle? I will probably use DSM Injectors untill I can get some RC's. Anyways, thanks for your help guys.
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Old 11-01-2009, 09:33 AM   #31
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go on ebay and get a skunk2...if not blox are good brands...and look into a thicker intake mani gasket..hondata would be your best bet because the material its made from..
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Old 11-01-2009, 08:32 PM   #32
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I have seen the Ad in a few magazines for the Hondata Gaskets and was curious so I may try one. I am needing help in the head department, I can't decide which would be the best to swap using my obd0 harness and the y8 block. z6, a6 or y8? I am guessing the a6 would not be best for turbo applications. I may take it to get a mild port & polish, maybe a valve job at a shop a few miles away. Springs, Retainers, Valves, etc... It will be easy to find a head of my choosing at a salvage near by considering everyone here shells out all their cash on farm trucks and tractors. Thanks in advance...
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Old 11-01-2009, 09:14 PM   #33
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if your staying obdo then get the y8 head..the obd0 dizzy will bolt up with no modifications...but the obd0 dizzy lines up poorly on the z6 head..and plus 1 for the port and polish..i port and polished my head at my own house
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Old 11-01-2009, 10:02 PM   #34
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i did a y5 bottom with a d17a6 crank and rods, with y8 pistons and a d16y7 head at 12lbs of boost = smashing
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Old 11-02-2009, 07:22 PM   #35
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That's a crazy combo DC. Ok, I will try and find a y8 head and I may attempt to port & polish myself but I am a little skeptical on my work. So, here is the parts list as of now:

D16y8 Block
D16a6 Crank
Vitara 8.5:1 75mm pistons
Eagle H-Beam Rods, Arp Bolts
Arp Head Studs
D16y8 Head and Intake Mani, Skunk 2
450cc DSM Injectors
OBD0 Dizzy from the a6
Stock Harness OBD0 with Chipped Ecu

I will add the turbo kit to the list once I find one I think will fit the setup best. I will grab a universal intercooler and oil catch too.

I have heard the a6 oil pan is easier to tap into for the Turbo oil line but I may just use the y8 oil pan since it's already off. I polished up the bottom of the block where the crank sits last night and I will have more pictures up soon. Any other suggestions on this build? I am having fun with the parts list right now.

After I have a complete build I will post up all the spare parts for sale if anyone may need them. I have y8 Rods, Pistons, Crank right now but will be posting up more.
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Old 11-02-2009, 08:44 PM   #36
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yea you will need to read the bearings on the bottom of the block and get the correct OEM bearings
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Old 11-03-2009, 01:16 AM   #37
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OEM Recommended I am guessing? The Rod Bearings & Mains may come with the rods but I can auto zone some oem's. Still looking for a obd0 with a y8 thread somewhere.

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Old 11-03-2009, 01:22 AM   #38
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Bah, found one. Does not give very much info but I will figure it out as I go along.

D16y8 OBD0
JDM Universe Diagrams

One Wire Vtec:
http://www.xenocron.com/te.php?page=TEvtec

I can use the chipped obd0 ecu and use my A/C Relay for the Vtec since I have ripped out the A/C anyways. That's what the sunroof is for right?

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Old 11-03-2009, 09:36 AM   #39
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right but..youd be better of atleast getting an obd0 b16 ecu..then chip it for your specs..
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Old 11-03-2009, 02:33 PM   #40
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The B16 OBD0's are equipped with vtec, I will see if I can find one so it will be a little bit easier. I have been considering a p28 obd1 conversion but dunno if I want to deal with it yet. I know it would pay off in the long run. I have been trying to scrub the block clean every night to no avail, the oil was baked on the inside of this thing. I can tell I am making some progress though. Using B-12 Chemtool, it smells like paint thinner in a spray can.
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Old 11-03-2009, 03:33 PM   #41
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aircraft stripper might work better..also for bearings go to the dealership..dont get autozone bearings..also the obd1 conversion would be better
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Old 11-03-2009, 06:03 PM   #42
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Where can I find some aircraft stripper? Dealership it is and I may convert to obd1 as soon as it's up and running. Thanks Injen, tons of helpful info as always.
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Old 11-03-2009, 06:13 PM   #43
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aircraft stripper at the local parts store..
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Old 11-03-2009, 09:27 PM   #44
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Will it make everything this clean?

I know it's a bit ludicrous but that is what I want, This is an image of a D16z6.
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Old 11-03-2009, 09:36 PM   #45
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lol no,,that stuff has a mild polish done to it..
but it will make it pretty clean i think...you can also try purple power and a pressure washer..
i know on my DA,i scraped every spec of grease of the block,id scrape,pressurewash,scrape,pressure wash..this was over like a course of a week..shit was clean
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Old 11-03-2009, 10:01 PM   #46
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Haha, Damn. Well, I have until next summer when Import Face Off and Street Warriorz comes to Tulsa,Ok but I am hoping to drop it in before that so I can Test & Tune. I am thinking about a Block Guard or Sleeves but I ran into someone saying I should use the devcon and Epsom salt approach?



Devcon filled D16 block. Block is filled past the water pump port with sugar, then filled with devcon f-2 liquid aluminum. Salt is washed out and holes are drilled in the devcon to allow water to pass down.
The supposed benefits over a block guard are that it supports both the top and middle of the cylinders rather than just the top. A member on HomeMade Turbo said that his machinist did a bore job on a devcon filled block and said that it eliminated any cylinder walk when he bored. Any Ideas? I would like to buy the Darton Wet Sleeves but the 500$ is going to hurt.

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Old 11-04-2009, 05:13 AM   #47
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Okay, fuck that. Everyone B knows of who went the Devcon route blew up. Damnit, why do all the good parts have to cost more? Sarcastic question and hey what the fuck is he doing up at 4AM?
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Old 11-04-2009, 11:33 AM   #48
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yea fuck that..dont even do a block guard..if your that worried then sleeve it
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Old 11-04-2009, 03:21 PM   #49
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Okay, adding sleeves to the shopping list but idk where I can have them installed without having to send the block off somewhere else. They have to be pressed in correct? Buying the sleeves may delay the turbo setup but I can run n/a until I can get a hold of an ebay kit. I want to build the bottom end right the first time and I will probably be one of the idiots who try to push the limits of a sohc but I guess that's what it's all about to anyways. With the help of HS I may be able to abstain from detonation.
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Old 11-04-2009, 04:25 PM   #50
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machine shop will do the sleeves,and to prevent detonation run high octane and a good tune..and dont try to push it real hard..stick around rev limit and you should be good
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