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Old 11-04-2009, 08:02 PM   #51
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Haha, I am the one setting the rev limits. My dad works at a Machine shop that deals with V8's and Racing Engines so I may be able to talk him into it. I only run 91 and that's all I can find around here.
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Old 11-05-2009, 09:48 AM   #52
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there ya go..pull the block..let it season and have it done..
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Old 11-05-2009, 04:47 PM   #53
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So seriously, just let it set through the winter?
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Old 11-05-2009, 05:36 PM   #54
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yes..take the pistons,rods,crank out,drain all the fluid out of it..and wipe all the oil off the walls..let it sit outside for awhile..the only thing is you gotta make sure that water doesnt get inside anywhere that it could plug up and freeze..because when water freezes it expands and when it expands itll crack the block...like if a little bit gets on the walls its fine..just make sure it doesnt fill the whole cylinder..your best bet would be to put it in the ocean(i know it sounds sooo retarded) but the ocean doesnt freeze.
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Old 11-05-2009, 06:02 PM   #55
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let it season?? wtf?
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Old 11-05-2009, 07:09 PM   #56
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the engine has already been through the heat cycles involved in seasoning..so now you let it sit and the temp changes will "cure" or "settle" the metal...i swear on anything this is an actual block building process..i can probably dig up some articles..and if you dont believe me call L&L auto machine in groton CT...or Larrys in CT...
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Old 11-05-2009, 07:16 PM   #57
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Mysterious Processes, Proven Results: Engine Builder
scroll down to "stress relief"
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Old 11-05-2009, 08:37 PM   #58
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Thanks for the link adding more crazy shit I am going to try in this epic thread. What if I wrapped it in plastic and let it set outside under the porch? I am almost finished with cleaning the block, just picked some pb blaster up from wal-mart.
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Old 11-05-2009, 10:10 PM   #59
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no need for the plastic..as long as water doesnt fill the water jackets,oil ports,and cylinders then its all good..like if it gets wet its ok..just dont let the water fill and freeze..
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Old 11-05-2009, 11:47 PM   #60
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Aight, I will finish cleaning it up and set it out until it's time to assemble. Friend just ripped apart his old d15 and we plan on doing the same since his has been sitting around outside for about 6 months now.
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Old 11-07-2009, 01:06 AM   #61
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Well me & my homie spent an hour trying to pull one of the Pistons & Rod out of his d15 and he finally got the idea to hone the cylinder out and try again. It worked and we hauled all our shit to the car wash since we don't have a pressure washer. It got most of the oil and grease off and his looks pretty clean but I still have a shit ton of black paint on mine in places. Here are the latest pics!

His D15B2:



After we took it apart:



Tools Used:



Block:



Side:



Car Wash!:



D15:



D16:



Toys:



In the Hatch:



Airing it all out:

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Old 11-07-2009, 11:40 AM   #62
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that crank is probably gong to be junk now..and the oil pump/pickup..
lol all i said was to do the block
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Old 11-07-2009, 01:49 PM   #63
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My friends D15 crank, I am using the one from my a6. It's still in the engine running my crx daily. Scare you?
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Old 11-07-2009, 04:47 PM   #64
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lol nope..jus figured u fucked urself
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Old 11-07-2009, 04:50 PM   #65
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So what is wrong with getting water on the cranks anyways?
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Old 11-07-2009, 08:39 PM   #66
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it will rust and then you will have to get it off..most likely scratching the crank
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Old 11-08-2009, 02:41 AM   #67
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Even after drying it off? That would suck, hopefully I will get mine micropolished.
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Old 11-11-2009, 03:14 AM   #68
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I just seen bisimoto hit 700+hp with a D16, the days of low hp single cams are over.
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Old 11-19-2009, 08:26 PM   #69
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this thing still going?
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Old 11-19-2009, 09:05 PM   #70
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Yeah, Still scraping off the black paint from the other side of the block. No aircraft stripper because haven't had the cash. Working now so will be updating more soon. I looked into a Home Made Turbo setup but it looks like ebay would actually be more worth the money. Had a tire shred last week, just replaced it, rear rotors are warped to the point it squeaks horrifically. So, I will be ordering the cross drilled & slotted for the back and maybe a wideband soon. Cash is the main reason this thread is moving so slowly. Income tax was the plan but I will be picking up lots of the smaller parts until then. Anyways, new pics will be uploaded in a few days. Does it matter what wideband you install for tuning? Bosch/Aem?
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Old 11-19-2009, 09:37 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by INJEN78 View Post
good article. But they are saying that if you just let it sit you should let it sit for 2 years, I think that if you want to get "good" results you should do what they say. When they talk about heat and cold treatments they are all under computer controls to do it because to get a good heat/cold treatment it has to be highly precise. Good luck with that "seasoning", seems like something that would just make it so you have to clean the block again.
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Old 11-19-2009, 09:45 PM   #72
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Before I got laid off I was using the Vibration method on all the large base metals that were welded to relieve stress. It was a small tool we attached to all the larger metals to keep them from warping. Worked damn good and had a meter to show when it was close to being finished, along with a timer. Seasoning through the winter and it can keep clean as long as no water gets inside and rust. They used cryogenics to flash freeze and yes it takes a lot less time than the other methods but most people do not have flash freezing or the vibration method as a resource.
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Old Yesterday, 10:56 AM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riceracerex View Post
Yeah, Still scraping off the black paint from the other side of the block. No aircraft stripper because haven't had the cash. Working now so will be updating more soon. I looked into a Home Made Turbo setup but it looks like ebay would actually be more worth the money. Had a tire shred last week, just replaced it, rear rotors are warped to the point it squeaks horrifically. So, I will be ordering the cross drilled & slotted for the back and maybe a wideband soon. Cash is the main reason this thread is moving so slowly. Income tax was the plan but I will be picking up lots of the smaller parts until then. Anyways, new pics will be uploaded in a few days. Does it matter what wideband you install for tuning? Bosch/Aem?
i would use an aem wideband..as for the turbo,get most of the pieces from n ebay kit and you should only really have to replace the manifold,the only real problem with the actual turbo is that the oil seals tend to go bad,but if you get it rebuilt it shouldnt be a problem..

Quote:
Originally Posted by 89hatchd15b View Post
good article. But they are saying that if you just let it sit you should let it sit for 2 years, I think that if you want to get "good" results you should do what they say. When they talk about heat and cold treatments they are all under computer controls to do it because to get a good heat/cold treatment it has to be highly precise. Good luck with that "seasoning", seems like something that would just make it so you have to clean the block again.
seeing how hes going to have to hone the block anyway seasoning is a good idea..
and the block should be dipped as well,also 2 years isnt exactly the time it takes,thats just how long they did it for,ive seen blocks start to season over night when left open.and the heat cycle is the natural cycle of the motor..you start it,let it get up to operating temp. then shut it off and let it cool down.and then repeat 3-4 times..
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Old Yesterday, 05:35 PM   #74
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Cool, the Aem Eugo seems cheaper than the LC-1 setups I have seen. Not too worried about the gauges because I will be using the laptop in the entire time I am tuning. Thanks Injen, I will get it ordered in a week or two probably.
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Old Yesterday, 07:17 PM   #75
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