bistec

Hi guys, it has been 18 hours that i've been working on my car. I'm swaping in my d15b. I'm tired and the old engine (z6) is still on the car (after 18 hrs ). The hoist is attached . All the mounts bolts have been taken out except for the rear tranny ones. How do you guys do to get even near it ? I've took out the charcoal canister to make rom ,use a breaker bar and 17 mm socket for 20min to realize that this nut is kind of welded to the chassis. Now my big problem is to get on the other side of the mount (under the righ side of the intake mani. There is no rom. Even from under the car i can't find a way of getting near it. Does the tranny have to come out with this mount or can i just unscrew the mount from the tranny and leave it in the car.
Also when i moved the charcoal canister i pulled one line that is connected to the purge solenoid (not r but it's on the right side of the intake mani and doesn't exist on the d15b mani) . I broke it right at it connection . So now i can't connect it anymore. If that is the purge solenoid and that no line can be connected to it will i have problem if i still want to use my z6 mani on the d15b? What kind of problem (idling) ? What can i do? Sorry for the english , i'm really too tired to think right but i do need help because tomorrow is going to be a long day. I have to finish tomorriw. I took a lot of pic and will post asap. Thanks for your help.

bistec

No one to help? I'll go try my best.

Domi31

I dont understand the bolt is welded on the car?

the purge is for emissions, you motor will be fine but you cant pass emissions test with out it hooked up.

tommynrossie

The easiest way is to unbolt the mount from the tranny and leave it in the car. the easiest way is from under the car with an impact gun and a swivel. is the car a MT or AT? good luck.

bistec

I got it out of the car. Now let put the d15 inside. Thank you.

Domi31

good shit, tell us how it turns out

Andrew

Thats your problem, you were trying to 'break' the welded nut on the mount. you have to unbolt it from the drivers side...

18hrs and it wasnt unbolted yet? *don't mean to flame*
Must be your first swap eh?

bistec

I put thYes it's my first swap. Bad new , i need a new lower ball joint because i've damaged the old one threads. Now can someone tell me how to bleed the radiator.


Andrew do you have any update on your engine? Did he chipped it? I hope he did and you getting it very soon. Great job on your car.

bistec

I've forgot to mention the d15b went inside in 30 min ( that's was cool and easy----- i took out the radiator). Do you need any special tool to get the ball joint out or in? Thanks.

bistec

Will 87 octane fuel be aproblem for the d15b . My fuel tank is full of it

Andrew

You might need to get a ball joint seperator, it's like $8 at Advanced Auto. Definatly recomended!

Thanks for your comment bro. The motor should be here today(actually last friday, but whos paying attention?). And yep, I got my ECU chipped. IIRC he(tuner) used a Skunk2 basemap because of my headwork and cams.
*just realized you meant shipped*- YES he shipped it, I just don't know if he's truthfull in saying it shipped Tuesday. I guess I'll find out when I get the tracking #.


Bleed the radiator?
you mean drain it? - take off the cap up top and pull the plug! (make sure not to leave it "drinkable" by animals- it'll kill them fast!! Make sure it's covered or something.

87 octane should be ok. if you hear any 'pinging', just drain it and fill it with some premium.(have a couple pics of my draining process in my engine swap thread. (maybe around pg. 4-6?) It's real easy, just 1 17mm drain bolt. just like draining the oil!


GL on the project!

__________________

My Engine Swap
Write-ups:
HG
FPR
Wheel
Smiley
Cluster.
Adapters.

bistec

Great that your engine is coming soon. What i was saying about the radiator is how to fill it. I mean is there any recommendations. I don't want to have air in it. How to? Also what the engine oil capacity and the tranny capacity. The car is 93 honda del sol si. Thanks.

Andrew

Just fill it up to the top, then run the motor for a minute or two with the radiator cap off, to "bleed" the system. Once the bubbles stop, screw the cap back on and make sure your engine doesnt do anything funny.

Taco15's car acted funny because it had some pressurized air in the coolant system, and it barely ran. We just took the cap off for a few minutes and it was fine.

Engine oil- 4 qts
Trans oil- 2 qts (tip: pop out the speed sensor and put a long tube funnel in there and fill it this way. it's MUCH easier)

__________________

My Engine Swap
Write-ups:
HG
FPR
Wheel
Smiley
Cluster.
Adapters.

bistec

The car doesn't start. Here what happened. I turned the key to ACC to check the fuel lines. At this point everything was working fine (the blower inside the car ,the fuel pump, the light on my dashboard/cluster .....) . I did it 3 times (turn the key to ACC , check the fuel lines and turn off ). Then i've decided to crank the engine. I turned it and i heard a sound like a fuse that blown and nothing happened ; all the light on the cluster went off . I've checked my engine compartiment fuse box and i've found one blown fuse (yellow 20A fuse). I don't even know if that was already blown when i got the car and it was running without it. But it was the only blown one that i could see. I took a look on the fuse cover for the diagram and it says that the yellow 20A is the CONDENSATOR fuse. (please take a look at pics-sorry for the quality). My car had a AC. I took it out when swaping ( i don't want it) and all of its plug are not connected Here come my questions:


1- Can a blown condensator fuse cut all the power?
2- Why is it blown? What mistake did i do?
3- Is there any solution? What should i do?
4- Would the fact that i took out my AC be the cause?


5- WHAT CAN I DO TO MAKE THIS CAR START - PLEASE HELP.

Thanks Andrew for the info

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bistec

Is it possible that i've blown my ecu? How to know? Also is there any fuse in the under dash board fuse box that can cut the power ? Should i check there to?

klyph

Yeah, check ALL your fuses. The AC fuse won't make your dash lights go off.

bistec

I did checked every single fuse. There is only one (7.5 A) that was blown. But i do remember that i've blown one (the dome light one) when i was installing my alarm two months ago. The car was running fine without it. The only place that i have power is at the battery (of course) and at the engine bay fuse box.

What can make all my dash board lights go off? Will a blown ecu do that?

I really don't know what to do? Where to find the problem and how to checked the wire at the engine?

The engine came with a manual p08 ecu. How to convert it to an auto ecu so that i can use it in case my ecu is blown. I'll have to find the what is the problem before sacrifying an other ecu in case.

Thanks for all your help guys. I really appreciate it.

klyph

Check your main relay. That coudl be where the problem lies.

bistec

If it 's my main relay, should i just get an new one and install it. But what can cause it to fail? The car was running fine before the swap. Is it something that i've done when swaping? Thanks.

801CRX

Check all your wiring to make sure you didnt cross any wires or leave one exposed.
And check all your grounds!

bistec

I'll do that ,thanks.

Andrew

Crawl under your dash and make sure you've got all the connections plugged in.
Make sure your cluster is plugged in good(if you took it out)
Have you checked all the fuses on the interior board?(not just the engine bay fusebox)

All your lights will work normally even with the ECU taken out.(mine was out for 2 weeks but I still checked my headlights and stuff after my wire tuck, as well as my cluster lighting), so it's not your ECU's fault.

bistec

Engine just started. Problem: bad connection between the chassis and the battery ground wire . Some sand paper and a wire brush and it came to live. Thanks to all of you .
Now here is my new problem. Except that i have a cracked manifold (don't know how did i do that - wasn't like that before the swap; might be the hammer) , the check engine light is on. I've splited the brake booster vaccum line to use my purge solenoid.

1- Is it normal because it's a jdm d15b and not a z6?
2-If anormal , what can i do? What should i look for?
3-Can it be due to the leak in the manfold?

The engine came with a manual d15b ecu.

4- Should i use it instead of my original p28?
5- If yes how to convert to auto? Is there anyone in Boston that can do that for me?

Thank you very much.

bistec

My new exhaust mani from ebay. What do you think?

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joecivic

what kind of manifold is that I need one for my car and i dont really have that much $