b16a idle problem not iacv or fast idle

hey guys im runnign a 16a with a p28 chipped ecu and a stock b16a map (p30) now the car is running very good but the idle is shit goes slightly up and down but thats not my worries. my worries are when i start the car it's like its going to stall then the iacv kicks in and brings it to 1000rpm tryed idle screw the fast idle valve could it be that the iacv is damaged but it does make a tick noise what else can it be ? i tryed 2 different chipped p28 ecu's both the same and my map sensor is connected but keeps throwing a code 3 even though its wired right and i have changed the map sensor twice ? the engine used to have a auto tranny but i've added a manual tranny so any ideas guys ? thanks in advance

btw yeh i've searched but evryone just says check the iacv and the fast idle valve

Have you checked for vacume leakes at the throttle body and intake manifold gaskets?
Have you checked with a gauge to see how much vacume you have at idle?

I had a civic that did this but it was the iacv. I just put a piece of tape over the hole in the throttle body and it ran good enuff to sell.

lolz kewl buddy al try that thankyou

For one, the FITV(fast idle thermal valve) comes into play when the engine is cold. it will hold the idle until the coolant reached a specific temperature and the plunger inside will start to close. once warmed up, the IACV(idle air control valve) takes over from there. I just re-assembled my own fitv due to idle surge.

There is an easy way to diagnose this, and than there is a not so easy to diagnose this.

1) remove your intake piping from the throttle body.
2) look inside the throttle body. you will see 2 holes inside the throttle body. The top hole is for your IACV. The bottom hole is for your FITV.
3) with the engine running, place your finger over the IACV hole.
If your idle corrects itself than your IACV is your problem.

4) put your finger over the FITV hole. Again, if the idle corrects itself, than the FITV is at fault. It most likely isnt broken, but probably just unthreaded itself due to vibration.

IF its the FITV, it sits just below the throttle body and has only 2 coolant lines. One in, and one out. When you remove the coolant lines, be sure to have some vise grips ready to close off the hose from antifreeze leaking all over the place. From there, you can remove the FITV housing by removing the three bolts (10mm) if i remember correctly. once you remove the housing from the manifold, there is a brass plate on the bottom of the housing that has 2 philips head screws holding it on. remove them and take the plate off. From there, you can see the plunger inside of the FITV housing. Most likely, it is loose and moving around inside. You will have to press the plunger back in firmly and turn to thread it back on. Once it is in as tight as you can get it with your hands, take a flat-head screwdriver and place the tip in the groove on the white ring around the plunger and turn it as if you were tightening it. That will make it secure for use.

Put it all back together, apply coolant lines and then start it up and see if your idle is fixed. If the problem was the FITV and it was as i descibed than i can almost guarantee your idle issue will be corrected.

If it isnt either the IACV or the FITV than look for vacuum lines on the back of the intake manifold for leaks, torn hoses or just plain open lines (not plugged or connected).

If this still doesnt fix your idle problem, try flushing your radiator and replace with fresh coolant. Make sure you do this correctly or else you will not get the results you want, just more headaches. Always replace thermostat when doing a rad flush.

someone should sticky that -^

cheers m8 i have screwed down the ftv threat right donw and going to change the iacv now see if it makes a difference

ok good news everyone since it wernt the iacv or the fitv i decided to spray engine cleaner near the injectors and the gasket on the intake manifold and i found the problem a leak between the intake and the head so i've ordered a new gasket from honda £15.00 GBP cost me and defo is the gasket as its warped open from the 3rd hole of the intake.

this should be sticky as its shows the idle problems in the vac the valves and the intake gasket all to do with high idle problem even when warm thanks guys for the help and support

anytime. :]

Wow that was a very good and descriptive post LS VTEC!! I wish all of the postings were as desriptive as yours!! Good Job!!

this thread is 2 years old.... but it may fix my problems lol check the dates though!

Yeah I saw the dates on it. I have not been on this site in a very long time-guess I didnt need to because my "H" has been running fine until today. SO, I did a quick search and your posting described very well what to do. Im not to familiar with this site and not to familiar with H eng probs either, But your post helped. Another problem though I have is that Im not sure if the description you posted will be the same for my eng. "f22b2" Do you know if it would be the same to test the iacv and fitv?

Got your rep up also!