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| View Poll Results: What is a better engine for a 1990 CRX Si | |||
| B16a1 |
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15 | 100.00% |
| Voters: 15. You may not vote on this poll | |||
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#1 |
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Senior Member
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Ya, the guy with my LS fell through, someone else got to it b4 i did. So now i need a new engine. ( if ur wondering my old LS died and needed so many new parts its not worth it to rebuild). Anyway i used to post ZC vs B18a and u picked B18a, now its the battle of Vtec vs. Displacement. tell me what u guys think is better b/c i dont know much about the b16a because i havent looked into it till now.
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Sleepers Are the Only way to Go. 1990 CRX Si B18a(92) CAI/E, Gutted, ACT clutch/pressure plate/13lb flywheel, Crower 403 Cams, Titanium Valve springs & Retainers, Blockguard, Head Milled 20 thou, 9.8:1 Compression, AEM cam gears. 1/4 = 14.73 60' = 2.48 trap = 95.03mph Soon to get: Header, Slicks Future 13 second all motor LS! |
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#2 |
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Senior Member
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well it all really comes down to what you want from your car in the end. Also depends on what you will be doing with your car!
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The C5 is strong with this one........ |
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#4 |
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Senior Member
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If you want turbo, go b18, if you want na, go b16..
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For all your air suspension needs <a href=\'http://www.ultimatesporttruck.com\' target=\'_blank\'>Three Rivers Ultimate Sport Truck</a> **There are many misconceptions of air ride and handling. A lot of bullshit spread, please PM if you wish to put air on your car/truck. You will get the 411. There ARE ppl who race with air ride, just have to know how to install it right.** |
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#5 |
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Senior Member
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The car will b N/A. i dont wanna waist all the money on turbo, thats y i thought of the b16a. i wanna keep it a good daily driver but with a lil power on the side
. all i plan on doing is I/H/E on either engine with racing clutch and maybe a lightened flywheel. I wont do auto-X only for an occational Trip to the 1/4 mile.
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Sleepers Are the Only way to Go. 1990 CRX Si B18a(92) CAI/E, Gutted, ACT clutch/pressure plate/13lb flywheel, Crower 403 Cams, Titanium Valve springs & Retainers, Blockguard, Head Milled 20 thou, 9.8:1 Compression, AEM cam gears. 1/4 = 14.73 60' = 2.48 trap = 95.03mph Soon to get: Header, Slicks Future 13 second all motor LS! |
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#7 |
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Senior Member
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I think even for na the b18a is a better option. With some head work or a vtec head swap you are talking a serious hp gain, and you are already ahead in torque. For down the road you are going to be happier...just my opinion
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1990 CRX DX in the works, ls swap now running IN CAR! RDM ownz JOOOO!!!!!!!!! |
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#8 |
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B happy
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Location: Location: Location:
Age: 37
Posts: 12,886
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B16A1 is the better,why get a lesser engine and spend that much turning it into something that you could have started with?(b18A)10ft lbs more vs (B16A1)30hp more.not to mention with the bolt ons you'll be doing better in the end with the 16.
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95 CX|B16A2 |
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#10 | |
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Senior Member
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Quote:
j/k
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Jason - 2.0L ls/vtec - 13.23@107 on slicks <a href=\'http://www.hondashowoff.com/profile.php?id=3042\' target=\'_blank\'>My Honda Showoff Gallery</a> - Vote for Me!!! <a href=\'http://www.hondaswap.com/gallery/browse.php?album_id=178\' target=\'_blank\'>My Gallery on HondaSwap</a> <a href=\'http://www.hondaswap.com/gallery/album.php?mode=view&album_id=311\' target=\'_blank\'>My Other Album</a> ------------------------------- |
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#11 |
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Senior Member
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damn, forgot to give my opinion... i say going NA id start with the b16 and then later down the rod IF you want to go LS/VTEC then you can pick up an LS block for pretty damned cheap... if you wanna swap for a GSR block, bore out the b16 whatever...
starting with the b16 you will at least have the car ready after doing the swap, wired for VTEC already and all that good stuff ![]()
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Jason - 2.0L ls/vtec - 13.23@107 on slicks <a href=\'http://www.hondashowoff.com/profile.php?id=3042\' target=\'_blank\'>My Honda Showoff Gallery</a> - Vote for Me!!! <a href=\'http://www.hondaswap.com/gallery/browse.php?album_id=178\' target=\'_blank\'>My Gallery on HondaSwap</a> <a href=\'http://www.hondaswap.com/gallery/album.php?mode=view&album_id=311\' target=\'_blank\'>My Other Album</a> ------------------------------- |
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#12 |
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Member
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For a CRX I would go with the B16. For one the the CRX is a really light car and having the highend horse power will be nice, and there is about unlimited after market support for the B16, with little time and money your little CRX could be one hell of a street machine! Plus, VTEC kicks ass, so it would be fun to have. Unless you don't want to be like everyone else and get your power sans VTEC.
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Current Project -- '88 Civic LX Sedan - DOHC ZC Swap - Finally Got it Running! SRP Pistons, Eagle Rods, p&p head, bored 10 over, Neuspeed N2 clutch, MSD SCI ignition, AEM fpr & fuel rail, Chikara header, Magnaflow muffler, Venom Fuel pump, ARP headstuds, Zex nitrous kit 75 shot, JDM ZC tranny w/ LSD, Raxles, NGK Spark Plugs, Taylor 8mm wires. Soon to have Jackson Racing Supercharger and Venom Injectors. Daily Driver -- '81 Accord DX 240,000 miles, rebuilt tranny, rebuilt head, repainted, shaved molding and front emblem, new stereo, new lower ball joints, new clutch, new axles, new oil pump. Soon to have a completely redone interior! Check out my Gallery, #929 or go to - <a href=\'http://www.hondaswap.com/gallery/browse.php?album_id=929\' target=\'_blank\'>http://www.hondaswap.com/gallery/browse.php?album_id=929</a> Also, check out:<a href=\'http://homepage.mac.com/rgbconcepts/PhotoAlbum1.html\' target=\'_blank\'>Civic ZC webpage</a> |
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#13 |
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Senior Member
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CRX IS GOOD FOR B16a OR SIR II OBD-1.
Later ON You CAN GO GSR OR TYPE R!!! ![]()
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91 STD Hatchback With OBD1 JDM Motor YS1 JDM tranny!!! PR3 OBD1 ECU and Dizzy TD-44U. 92-93 XSi **JDM** Stock Motor ECU and Engine Harness Converted to OBD1. Vtec Currently Working :O <a href=\'http://members.aol.com/megabighulk/Dyno1\' target=\'_blank\'>http://members.aol.com/megabighulk/Dyno1</a> My Dyno ^ |
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#15 | |
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RETIRED
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Quote:
j/k [/b][/quote] b18b > b16a sir > b18a IMO |
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#16 |
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Junior Member
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I would definitely go B16A. I am one of the few people out there who have had both motors in cars of about equal weight. And the fact of the matter is that the B18B did not hold a candle to the B16A. Now alot of people say the B18A/B18B is better because it has 'torque'. But let's face it. The difference is miniscule (111ft-lb vs 121ft-lb or 127ft-lb). And the B16A produces close to its peak torque over a MUCH wider RPM range than the LS. Furthermore, the taller gearing of the LS transmission eats up much to all of its torque advantage. The pull is only a little stronger in first and alot weaker in fifth compared to the B16A. And since the B18A/B18B is not very rev-tolerant, a B16A transmission is NOT recommended for anything but a race-only car. Go with the B16A. Or if you really want torque, go B20.
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#17 | |
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B happy
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Location: Location: Location:
Age: 37
Posts: 12,886
iTrader: 1 / 100%
Ride: dohc 95 egg
Rep Power: 165
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Quote:
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95 CX|B16A2 |
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#18 | |
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Senior Member
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Quote:
![]() Click You really have no idea what your talking about, do you? The peak numbers mean jack shit. The LS may have a little more peak torque than a b16 but it owns it in the lower powerband. On a similar note- the b16 sir2 has 170 peak hp, but its only occuring right at the top of the power band for a small amount of time. Go drive a ls then drive a b16 then come back and tell me that peak numbers are the only thing that matters
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