94B18Hatch

long time viewer, first time poster. OK i have a b18b1 with a gsr tranny in my 94 hatch and it seems to run/ pull pretty well for what it is, but i've been having some issues lately. It has quite a few problems, so please read and help if you can.

When i first finished the swap, about 2 months ago, my ignition timing was WAY off and every now and then when i would go to get on it, it would feel as if something was holding it back or i had a ton of weight in the car and other times it would not.
Well we messed with the timing numorous times and got it decent, then i got off my lazy ass and bought a timing gun. i like to think it's set right now, because it has felt alot better.

Well now it started to do it again (where it feels like it's holding back/lot o'extra weight). I have yet to check my timing with the gun, but i'd assume it would still be within specs. A friend said it could possibly be clogged injectors, so i bought some injector cleaner (can't remember the name off the top of my head) but that didn't help. This hesitation, or whatever you want to call it, only occurs from 1.5 to about 3.5k rpm. Yesterday i seafoamed it, changed my oil/filter, and spark plugs and it still has the hesitiatioin/idle issue. When i pulled out my plugs however, they were covered in oil so i obviously need a new vc gasket.
Maybe the little bit of oil getting on them is causing this stuff?
Is there any way to test the injectors if this is a possible problem?

Also on good days it idles right but on a bad one it will cold idle at 2k and drop to around 1.5to 1.6k, when warmed up. Not only that, but when in neutral and I give it a blip it will rev up and drop down to 1k then raise back up to 1.5ish k.
The check engine light used to be on, but it was for a bad 02 sensor so i replaced that and i still get a cel on occasion. The cel and the lacking of power do not seem to be correlated, and I never did reset my ecu and the install of the o2 sensor...idk if that could be that issue.

Also when i first start up my car the temp. guage will not work. It takes around 10 minutes for it to show any reading.

When i checked my cel today the codes are 1,17,and 41. 1 is for oxygen sensor...mine is brand new so idk what the problem problem would be there. 17 is for the vss or the vss circuit...my speedo seems to work right, as does my tach so idk what that prob could be. and 41 is for the heated oxygen sensor or heater circuit...could that be why my temp guage doesn't work right away?

I believe that is all, sorry for the book but i need help!
Does anyone have any idea what this problem could be? Is it all connected or do i have multiple problems? Any help will be GREATLY appreciated.
Thanks in advance

VTECin5th

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(94B18Hatch @ Nov 8 2005, 03:22 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
long time viewer, first time poster. OK i have a b18b1 with a gsr tranny in my 94 hatch and it seems to run/ pull pretty well for what it is, but i've been having some issues lately. It has quite a few problems, so please read and help if you can.

When i first finished the swap, about 2 months ago, my ignition timing was WAY off and every now and then when i would go to get on it, it would feel as if something was holding it back or i had a ton of weight in the car and other times it would not.
Well we messed with the timing numorous times and got it decent, then i got off my lazy ass and bought a timing gun. i like to think it's set right now, because it has felt alot better.

Well now it started to do it again (where it feels like it's holding back/lot o'extra weight). I have yet to check my timing with the gun, but i'd assume it would still be within specs. A friend said it could possibly be clogged injectors, so i bought some injector cleaner (can't remember the name off the top of my head) but that didn't help. This hesitation, or whatever you want to call it, only occurs from 1.5 to about 3.5k rpm. Yesterday i seafoamed it, changed my oil/filter, and spark plugs and it still has the hesitiatioin/idle issue. When i pulled out my plugs however, they were covered in oil so i obviously need a new vc gasket.
Maybe the little bit of oil getting on them is causing this stuff?
Is there any way to test the injectors if this is a possible problem?

Also on good days it idles right but on a bad one it will cold idle at 2k and drop to around 1.5to 1.6k, when warmed up. Not only that, but when in neutral and I give it a blip it will rev up and drop down to 1k then raise back up to 1.5ish k.
The check engine light used to be on, but it was for a bad 02 sensor so i replaced that and i still get a cel on occasion. The cel and the lacking of power do not seem to be correlated, and I never did reset my ecu and the install of the o2 sensor...idk if that could be that issue.

Also when i first start up my car the temp. guage will not work. It takes around 10 minutes for it to show any reading.

When i checked my cel today the codes are 1,17,and 41. 1 is for oxygen sensor...mine is brand new so idk what the problem problem would be there. 17 is for the vss or the vss circuit...my speedo seems to work right, as does my tach so idk what that prob could be. and 41 is for the heated oxygen sensor or heater circuit...could that be why my temp guage doesn't work right away?

I believe that is all, sorry for the book but i need help!
Does anyone have any idea what this problem could be? Is it all connected or do i have multiple problems? Any help will be GREATLY appreciated.
Thanks in advance
[/b][/quote]
I vote for o2 sensor being bad, maybe the wiring, since you still have the CEL.
What ECU are you running?
I'd check to see if the wires are maybe melted, and you should've installed the o2 sensor with the battery unplugged.
It's possible you are running really rich from maybe a skipped tooth on timing, and causing premature o2 failure as well.
Your temp gauge doesn't work right away...?
What if you warm up your car, then shut it off, and then turn it back on, does it work normal?
You might just be running that cold, my gauge shows nothing for about 5 minutes and sometimes 10 if i drive really easy in the morning.

__________________
k20dc5

94B18Hatch

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(VTECin5th @ Nov 8 2005, 05:12 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
I vote for o2 sensor being bad, maybe the wiring, since you still have the CEL.
What ECU are you running?
I'd check to see if the wires are maybe melted, and you should've installed the o2 sensor with the battery unplugged.
It's possible you are running really rich from maybe a skipped tooth on timing, and causing premature o2 failure as well.
Your temp gauge doesn't work right away...?
What if you warm up your car, then shut it off, and then turn it back on, does it work normal?
You might just be running that cold, my gauge shows nothing for about 5 minutes and sometimes 10 if i drive really easy in the morning.
[/b][/quote]

Hmm...well it's new so i don't see how it could be bad already, but i'll check the wiring on it to see if it has melted. and no i did not install it with the battery unplugged.
I'm running a virgin (as far as i know) p75
How could i skip a tooth on timing? does that mean timing belt slippage?
Ya if i start my car and drive for 10 to 15 minutes it won't show anything, like it'll be below the line. Eventually it will raise, but once warmed up if I turn it off, then back on, it will raise. Maybe I am running that cold...I didn't even think of that b/c it is below the line, which just seemed like it wasn't working. I'm running a c&r radiator too, so maybe that solves that problem?
Thanks for your help

94B18Hatch

bump

haltom hatch

As for your 41, I would check to sake sure that your wires are not crossed or one wire is not connected somewhere. That code usually means tats the O2 heater signal is not making it to the sensor correctly.
If you are throwing two ifferent sensor codes I would think that you got two wires croosed at some point. I don't really have an answer for your vss issue, or lack there of. Hell they could all be old codes too. I know from experience that running one tooth off will KILL your cars performance. But for the most part when you set your T Belt the white mark on crank pully lines up with the raised mark on you belt cover and your cam gears point straight up. You should be able to take a straight edge and line it up with the deckhead where the notches in the gears are. Then set your dizzy about midway between full advance and retard. That set up will pretty much always get your car running well.