Slimtadder

I have a B16 fully built but not together yet. I bought the complete swap for a B16 into my 89 Hatch. Here's my dilemma now, the more I look at this B20 and see it's torque is considerably higher then my B16. My question would be I have a fully ported and polished head, with all skunk 2 equipment (springs, retainers high comp. valves & stage 2 cams) Also a valve job. By putting this head on the B20 block what can I expect to see in horse power? I'm going for an all motor setup, so I don't even know if I want the B20. Don't most people boost them? Is the B20 heavier or about the same as the B16?

Thanks Guys & the few girls in here...

kyleirwin

do you have anything done to your shortblock? either way i'd still go b20/vtec. you don't see too many all motor b20/vtec's cuz it lacks a high hp torque, but most aren't boosted either, most that go the boost route go ls/t over b20/t, i don't really know why but i would guess it's cuz of cost. most b20's are usally setup as b20/vtec's, like calesta... his setup is sick. find one of his posts and click the links in is sig. get a b20 shortblock, hone it, swap in the b16 pistons, get new rings, bolt on the b16 head and you'll be set.

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Kyle I. Collins, PmD.

2 litre EG

since you wanna stick with all motor... i have one question.... what is your goal quarter mile time wise???

i've seen b16's hitting 11's.... of course there was mad weight reduction as well as milling of the head [boo to that idea]... you can hit 13'3 easily with the b20/vtec set up like calesta's but like i said its up to you, depends on how fast you really wanna go

Slimtadder

Would like to see 12's regularly. What's the pro's and con's of the B20/vtec compared to a straight up B16?

Thanks

pissedoffsol

b16 pistons wont fit in a b20 block. the b20 is 84mm bore, b16 is 81. hello gap =)

just so you know- there's a LOT more to it than simply bolting the head onto the b20 block. check the FAQ forum- theres a huge thread on cr/vtec's info

kyleirwin

jesus crist... hella brain fart.. sorry 'bout the mis information.

b is right, you can't just "bolt it on", but it's not too complicated. you need to drill two dowel pin holes on the exhaust side of the head to match the block, tap and plug the vtec oil supply hole, take out the copper alen plug on the intake side of the head on the left (if motor is mouned in the car and you are standing in front of the car) and route oil to it though a tee fitting that you have to intall on the block and that will be your new vtec oil supply. it sounds kinda confusing, but it's not all that difficult and if you have some expirence with a drill press, you can do the dowel pin modifications to the head yourself.

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Kyle I. Collins, PmD.

Slimtadder

I guess with the equipment I have, I'm asking how much horse power will I see with a B20/Vtec? (Educated Guess)

Thanks

pissedoffsol

i think this is the other way around. the drilling needs to be done to the block- but i'm not sure and may be wrong.

expect between 100 and 300 horse.
it depends what you use to build it with man. some people hit 260 at the wheels, some barely make 180

and are you sure abou this?

kyleirwin

i think this is the other way around. the drilling needs to be done to the block- but i'm not sure and may be wrong.

expect between 100 and 300 horse.
it depends what you use to build it with man. some people hit 260 at the wheels, some barely make 180

and are you sure abou this? [/b][/quote]
it needs to be done to the head... i'm sure. i'm also sure about plugging the vtec oil supply hole. the non-vtec blocks lack the feed hole that sends the oil to the head that the vtec blocks have, therefore you have to plug that hole and get it to the head in a different manner (through ss braided lines that have been tee'd off of the block that run to the head where you take out the alen plug that i mentioned in my previous post). here's an example of the pluged vtec oil supply hole and new dowel pin hole:

__________________
Kyle I. Collins, PmD.

pissedoffsol

werd

good post