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#1 |
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Senior Member
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I just completed the B20 vtec swap into my 1997 coupe civic hx. Here are the problems i am having. It starts and runs fineeeeeeeee. However whenever i have cold starts (park the car overnight, wake up to go to work) the car turns over cranks for awhile and then starts. I then have to let it warm up for like a minute or 2 or if i drive the revs will drop and it will choke and die. If i let it warm up it is fine. However when i am at work for 9 hours and try to start it it turns over and the rpm goes up normal and slowly drops down to under 1000 and then dies. I turn it again and it does the same thing. The only way to start it like this is to start it with a little pedal down to keep the revs up but even then it cuts in and out, until it warms up then it is fine. this is always the same pattern, in the morning it cranks for a while but starts idles fine. Then later in the day it cranks and dies. LAstly the engine gets damn hot, like i could cook and egg on the headers after a few minutes of the engine being on. IS this normal. Compression is 12:1. Someone said it has to build compression or something. the thermostat and radiator fan is working fine. One other thing when i first crank the car and it idles fine the idle is at like 1100, which is fine, but when it warms up and i drive the idle goes to like 1500. The enigine is being broken in and i've only put about 120 miles on it. Thanks for the help in advance.
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#2 |
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Senior Member
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Oh i am running 250 cc injectors going with OB2 setup, and GSR ECU if that helps. Any questions let me know. I can get a set of RC 310 cc injectors for dirtcheap ($150). Should i upgrade to these? Any other suggestions for making my motor reliable yet fast. It is bored to 2.2L and i use Arias pistons. Injen intake and Greddy Evo full exhaust.
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#3 |
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Admin with a big stick
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Dallas / Fort Worth, TX
Age: 32
Posts: 24,525
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Ride: 2003 S2000
Rep Power: 291
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Build compression? No, that's wrong.
What kind of bore are you running for 2.2L? If you're bored to 2.2L, your pistons would be rubbing against each other. I wouldn't upgrade to 310cc injectors unless you can tune for them. Have you tuned the engine at all? There isn't really a stock program that will run a B20/VTEC setup that well. __________________
DO NOT PM me with tech questions! Use the forums! Intercrew Auto Salon - (972) 485-8688 |
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#4 |
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Senior Member
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you said it starts fineeeeee....? no, i wouldn't say it starts fine with all of the problems you just described. Have you do a tune-up yet with the new swap (new spark plugs, wires, etc, etc, etc....)
The header being hot is normal. Bulid compression??? __________________
Dave Philippians 4:13 |
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#5 |
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Senior Member
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When i said it starts normal i mean in the morning. It cranks a few times and turns over and idles. Build compression as in it has to crank a few times to build compression for the 12:1. Maybe it is not 2.2 then. i don't know
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#6 |
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Senior Member
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If you can, list your complete list of parts used to place this motor together and what elements you are running with, which ecu, etc...
Milan __________________
<span style=\"color:red\">"92 Blue EG"</span> -Project 3 - Motor A (NA stock SiR longblock B16 EG/S1tran) 14.3@97 15" radial tires & Gutted -Project 3 - Motor B (NA stock SiRII longblock B16 EG/S4tran) 13.3@103 MT's & Gutted <span style=\"color:red\">"Goldy S13"</span> -Project 4 - Motor A (FI SR20DET w/T28 "Under Construction" <span style=\"color:red\">"Silver E46"</span> -Project 5 - Motor A (???) |
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#7 |
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Senior Member
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how do you not know???. did you build it or a shop??
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</div><table border=\'0\' align=\'center\' width=\'95%\' cellpadding=\'3\' cellspacing=\'1\'><tr><td>QUOTE (94RedSiGal @ Dec 2 2003 @ 12:27 AM)</td></tr><tr><td id=\'QUOTE\'>Having a ClubSi, Honda-Tech or HondaSwap sticker on them would just scream "Steal Me Now! I'm a special car!" to thieves.</td></tr></table><div class=\'signature\'> |
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#8 |
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Senior Member
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I don't know, because I had a friend who knows the owner of a shop build it (redline performance in oregon) I just got it finished like 2 days ago and have not received all the specs on it. It was bored over a few times at the machine shop to clean it up a bit. The parts. Its a 99 si head and a b20b block with arias pistons. All parts on the head are off a 2000 civic si, except the distributor, that is off a 94+ gsr. New oil pump, new injectors, new belts (all oem). I am running DC ceramic 4-1 header, greddy cat back exhaust (2.5 piping) , 2 o2 sensors, knock sensor, no power steering, no ac, cheap catalytic converter 2.5 piping. Anything else. Anyone know why the engine would be idling at about 1100 and when i drive it or it warms up it actually idles at 1500. Or why it would start the way it would. The timing was triple checked and it correct. Any other questions? Thanks for all the help guys. Like i said though once i can keep iot idling i don't have to do anything it runs normal and idles fine. The problem is getting it to idle at start up. Even once i get it to idle normal, i can shut it off and start it right back up and it starts on the first crank. I hope this description is helping. thanks
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#9 |
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Senior Member
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the people who put my engine are away for a week that is why i need the help. Any suggestions
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#10 |
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Senior Member
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By the way what are some issues that i could run into with my setup. First and foremost to me is reliability. Anyone know what is a safe rev limit or how bad it really is to be using a GSR ecu for the engine management?
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#11 |
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Senior Member
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bump
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#12 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: san francisco
Age: 24
Posts: 555
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Ride: DC2 ITR and DC4 LS
Rep Power: 19
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just wait a bit, that happend to my friends car when he dropped in his motor too. I forgot what the problem was, I think it was the IAC valve or something along the lines of that. It was either that or something that just went away with time, don't know how though.
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#13 |
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Senior Member
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bump
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#14 |
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Admin with a big stick
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Dallas / Fort Worth, TX
Age: 32
Posts: 24,525
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Ride: 2003 S2000
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Stop bumping every hour. NOW.
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DO NOT PM me with tech questions! Use the forums! Intercrew Auto Salon - (972) 485-8688 |
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#15 |
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Senior Member
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any other suggestions
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#16 |
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Senior Member
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nothing?
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#17 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Baltimore, MD
Age: 25
Posts: 2,401
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Ride: '92 Civic CX
Rep Power: 39
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make sure you check your idle... http://www.hondaswap.com/~pills/idlefix.html go there
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Garage: 1992 CX Hatch > Current Money Pit Grave: R.I.P. 1995 Integra GSR R.I.P. 1990 DX Hatch R.I.P. 1990 CRX Si |
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#18 |
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Senior Member
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Ok since my last thread was closed, eventhough i was asking new questions. I was told to write them in here. So here is my cut and paste copy of my other thread. Sorry modys for giving you extra work.
I just finished the B20b swap into my 1997 civic hx. Here are some questions i have for you guys. Basically its a B20B block, remachined with Arias pistons and a 2000 si head. All internals on block are stock except the pistons. Everything on the head is also stock (distrubitor, alternator etc). We did put new belts on, spark plugs etc. I am running 4-1 DC LS ceramic headers and greddy evo exhaust with a universal catalytic converter (2.5 inch piping all the way) MY ECU is off of a GSR and my injectors are 250cc. I am running on OBD2 with both O2 sensors and knock sensor etc. 1) What are some of the problems that might happen to me with my setup. For example not enough fuel, engine cutting off, reliability etc. 2) Cars usually idle high when you first start them and as it warms up the idle goes down. Mine idles at about 1100 and as it warms up idles about 1500. anyone know why? IS this normal? 3) Is it normal for a car to idle that high? 4) Also it is hard to find the correct timing for the car to idle high enough to start up and have enough power? Any suggestions how much i should idle (rpms and timiong) it at. __________________
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#19 |
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Senior Member
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I tried messing with the timing and that is the only way i can get it to start, after it starts once it can be shut off and started again easily, but after it's been sitting for awhile (3 hours or so) it cranks turns over and dies. Could it be the timing? the starter? The distributor( I am using a GSR distributor)? The ecu (maybe the fuel/air management by the GSR ecu is not good enough for a crv block ). Not enough spark? Does anyone know if it is safe for a car to idle 1500 or 2000 or why a car starts at 1000 and as it warms up goes up? No matter what i do with the timing once i can get it to start it idles at 1000, until i drive then it idles depending where i put the timing.
Thanks ![]() __________________
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#20 |
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Senior Member
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My last attempt at help... PLEASE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! j/k any help is appreciated.
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#21 |
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Senior Member
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Anyone know where to refer me to find out this info?
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#24 |
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Member
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