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Old 12-19-2007, 11:50 PM   #101
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when you were driving before, the pin was in and fell out...so it was on there pretty snug already. thats why you didnt have a problem but once its loosened it aint gonna stay back on. the pin in my linkage was gone too..i just replaced it with another barrel pin. itll work fine but you could get another one from honda maybe i guess. removing them just requres a center punch or something similar
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Old 12-19-2007, 11:52 PM   #102
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See the bitch pin looks like it's just a hole or something ???

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Old 12-19-2007, 11:56 PM   #103
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So then if there IS no pin in my linkage, I can just pull the linkage off? Or unbolt something else to get it off? I don't know what to do for that rod off the tranny after the pin is out.
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Old 12-20-2007, 12:00 AM   #104
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yep...thats the one. theres a lil circlip is supposed to snap over it to keep it from falling out. did you just take this pic recently? it looks as tho the pin is still there..yeah it has a hole in the middle...and its split on one side...it squezzes together when you drive into the shaft
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Old 12-20-2007, 12:04 AM   #105
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Well you see there's a complete write up with pics at D-series.org thread it's like 3 years old for this exact swap and I just used their pic but mine looks EXACTLY like that. The clip is gone and there's a groove for it. So THAT'S WHY I was able to stick a slim screwdriver all the way through eh....the pin is more of a cylinder almost? I think I get it now why you need exactly an 8 mm punch. Thanks a whole lot man for real we'll see what turns up tomorrow! I'll prolly getto rig another clip for it or something but it seems like the clip's been gone for a while. Not to mention my car's been through at least 2 motor swaps that I know of before I bought it.
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Old 12-20-2007, 12:09 AM   #106
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yea..its like a cylinder shape..you were sticking the screwdriver thru the middle of the pin. a center punch a lil bigger than the center of the pin should drive it out no prob... the shift linkage should come off with a lil wiggling back and forth..good luck dude
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Old 12-20-2007, 12:57 PM   #107
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Got out school early due to finals so here's today's update:

Took out the cotter pins, busted off the ball joint (Was a fuckin BITCH). My shop teacher's ball joint splitter wouldn't even fit so we couldn't use it so I ended up hammering at it like crazy. Then I put a prybar in there and after relentless hammering, I wound up, and gave it everything I had and it popped off. Did the same to the other side and removed the axels completely. Then I got my shop teacher to punch out the spring pin holding the linkage up since he won't let me touch his personal tools so he did it for me. Axels and linkage done.

All that's left to do is remove the transmission support bracket and undo the mounts and yank out the b7! Then drop in the d15b hook it up and change the ecu IF I could find out how to unbolt it from the kick panel! I still can't find the bolts/screws.

I'm heading back to the shop in about an hour here to see if I can finish up . More updates later today SORRY for not having the pics this time I WILL bring a camera! Even tho most of the work is done...lol. Thanks to EVERYONE here for the help that made my swap possible.
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Old 12-20-2007, 01:47 PM   #108
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sounds like its coming along...as far as the ecu goes just pull up the carpet and look at the kick panel..there should be 10mm nuts holding it to the floor. i dinno why you cant find them..theyre righ there...and what did you hammer?? the balljoint stud or the seperator tool?
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Old 12-20-2007, 06:33 PM   #109
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I'll keep looking for that ecu and I was hammering at the prybar that I put between the lower control arm and the steering knuckle.

Anyways updates for earlier today:

I unbolted the exhaust manifold from the cat and unbolted the transmission bracket and then I attached the hoist. Problem was I decided to try to start with the transmission mount. Took that off then it was all uneven and shit so I put it back on, raised the car up on the lift, and undid the rear mount from below. Then I noticed the A/C condensor had to go because there was a huge bolt in the way of the fender, so I removed it. Didn't have that much time so that's where I'm at now.

I believe all I have left to do now is undo the last 2 mounts and pull it . Gonna be a BITCH hooking up the d15b tho cuz I forgot to label the wires and hoses I just got in such a rush and started unbolting/pulling shit.
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Old 12-21-2007, 06:03 AM   #110
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i see.....hmmm you got a load leveler for the hoist?? itll help you remove the engine from an angle. and yeah that condensers gotta go ..the engine will hit it comin out. as far as the vacumm lines and hoses and stuff its not that hard..just take your time and youll releaixe where they go on the new engine. post some pics dude!!
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Old 12-21-2007, 01:18 PM   #111
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Alright man. Got my camera right on the table so I'll remember to take it . And no, I don't have a leveler, I'll just have to try and get it out without it.

I just wish I had more time than like an hour a day to work on it! I could have had this done in 1 day if I had the whole day. I'll bet if I could start all over with a new swap I could do it in 4 hours...5 max. And the funny thing is I've never done anything more than an oil change before starting this swap. Guess ya'll weren't playing when you said 5th gen swaps are easy!
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Old 12-21-2007, 02:41 PM   #112
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yea pretty much a bolt in deal...and more than an hour to do work to it would help..

so when you gonna be done? a moth or so? lol....i keed..i keed
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Old 12-21-2007, 07:31 PM   #113
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Just got back from shop here's the update:

D15B Vtec is IN!!!!! It took forever for us to get the motor in because for one, the o2 sensor was a B-I-T-C-H to take off. The 1-wire from the d15b was easy but it took all 3 of us to break off the nut for the 4-wire sensor on my d15b7. It took us about an hour to do that looking for tools and what not. We kept the b7 manifold. Then since we didn't have a leveler it took a long time to properly lower the motor to the bay we had to set it back on the ground twice to adjust the steel lines and get the angle right. By then it was time to go, so we got the motor bolted in and called it a day. Tomorrow we should be done, teacher's allowing us to go in at 9 in the morning and pretty much have all day. The wiring is confusing though there's wires on the left that should be on the right and vice-versa. We'll do the axels and shift linkage first and put the wheels back on then get the wiring straight. I'll do the vtec wires later.

By the way I found the ecu....I was looking under the dash. LOL so I pulled back the carpet and found it that'll be the last thing I do and finish up the swap. Hopefully tomorrow.
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Old 12-21-2007, 08:51 PM   #114
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Are the 2 Vtec wires the green/black wires?
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Old 12-22-2007, 12:59 AM   #115
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Is the Vtec the only thing that needs to be wired for my swap to work? Do I have to do ANY additional wiring? Like knock sensor etc?
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Old 12-22-2007, 07:33 PM   #116
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Update for today....

Didn't get as far as I wanted to..when I first put in the d15b vtec I used the harness that came with it because it wasn't cut but it didn't work out. So today we finished the suspension/axels/shift linkage part of the swap but the electrical didn't work out to well. So we pulled the motor back out and put on the b7 harness and put the 4-wire o2 sensor back on. The wires went on fine, except I think I'm missing the IAT (Is that the one on the throttle body with that black bracket?) sensor or whatever goes there. Everything else was there. So we dropped the motor back in and tomorrow we're going to hook it all up and see what happens.

Need some help...

What is that sensor at the throttle body and is it necessary?
What about the 4-wire o2 sensor? Do I need to convert it to 1-wire to run the po8?
Also the IM on the d15b vtec looks like it's missing a hole for a vacuum line? Should I use the IM from the b7 or just snip the line and plug it since it looks like the d15b doesn't need it?
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Old 12-22-2007, 08:26 PM   #117
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About the last one:
I'm not 100% sure, but I think it may have something to do with emissions. I know that the OBX intake mani's, people saying that they don't work with the si's because they're missing a couple things for emissions. Everyone also says to use the usdm equivalent parts as far as manifolds, blah blah, so my guess is to use the b7 one, if it'll work.

Let someone else put something in on that advice though, just to back it up.
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Old 12-22-2007, 08:46 PM   #118
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If it's only there for emissions reasons then I'm not worried. They don't test for emissions around here . And I kept the USDM exhaust manifold because as I've read, the d15b's manifold doesn't fit the cat.

But I still need help with the rest like the o2 sensor what should I do with that and the sensor on the throttle body...everything in my last post.
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Old 12-23-2007, 12:09 AM   #119
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bump for help on questions 3 posts ago?
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Old 12-23-2007, 12:24 AM   #120
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Update for today....

Didn't get as far as I wanted to..when I first put in the d15b vtec I used the harness that came with it because it wasn't cut but it didn't work out. So today we finished the suspension/axels/shift linkage part of the swap but the electrical didn't work out to well. So we pulled the motor back out and put on the b7 harness and put the 4-wire o2 sensor back on. The wires went on fine, except I think I'm missing the IAT (Is that the one on the throttle body with that black bracket?) sensor or whatever goes there. Everything else was there. So we dropped the motor back in and tomorrow we're going to hook it all up and see what happens.

Need some help...

What is that sensor at the throttle body and is it necessary?
What about the 4-wire o2 sensor? Do I need to convert it to 1-wire to run the po8?
Also the IM on the d15b vtec looks like it's missing a hole for a vacuum line? Should I use the IM from the b7 or just snip the line and plug it since it looks like the d15b doesn't need it?

OK..here we go...

the p08 uses a 1 wire o2. you shoulda went with the p28 cause it uses a 4 wire o2. but p08 will work...just use a 1 wire sensor

the TB sensor your talking about,,, is it ON the TB?? cause that would be the TPS sensor... yes you need this. there should be a plug on the harness for it. itll be yellowish(not bright yellow) in color with 3 wires green yellow red.

vaccum lines, they can be TEEed together if theres no spot on the mani for it

hope it helps
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Old 12-23-2007, 01:07 AM   #121
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OK..here we go...

the p08 uses a 1 wire o2. you shoulda went with the p28 cause it uses a 4 wire o2. but p08 will work...just use a 1 wire sensor

the TB sensor your talking about,,, is it ON the TB?? cause that would be the TPS sensor... yes you need this. there should be a plug on the harness for it. itll be yellowish(not bright yellow) in color with 3 wires green yellow red.

vaccum lines, they can be TEEed together if theres no spot on the mani for it

hope it helps
Ok..on the 1-wire o2...my original harness has a 4-wire connector for the o2, which I have installed right now (4-wire) so I'll run the d15b7 (p07) ecu for now til I get my car out of the school's shop and can wire vtec on my own time. Then I guess figure out a way to convert it to 1-wire.

Yea the TB sensor is ON the TB and it's weird cuz there's ONE plug that fits it, but it also fits another sensor...so it's on the other sensor for now which I don't know what it is but there's only 1 plug but 2 different sensors (TB and another) that it will fit. It looks like I'll have to route new wires and a new connector to the ecu or something but it's definately missing a plug.

And "TEEed"??? Is that like getting a t-shaped fitting that both hoses can go into but only goes on the motor in 1 spot?

Thanks a lot for your help man I know I'm probably getting annoying by now...but I gotta get this done lol.
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Old 12-23-2007, 01:58 AM   #122
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nahh not annoying at all.. i wouldnt be posting if i didnt want to help. well yea i guess put the o2 on the backburner for now.. but as far as vtec just get a p08 ecu (its what originally controls the d15b) and get a vtec subharness to wire it up. makes things really easy. and the 2 connectors are prolly the tps or the map sensor...pics dude!! see how it goes
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Old 12-23-2007, 02:04 AM   #123
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Nah it's not the MAP the plug that fits the TPS fits another closer to the tranny. Maybe we missed it and it's there I'll of course check again but all we got earlier was 1 and we need another 1. Will the motor at least start without the TPS or the other one connected? I would think it would start with at least the starter and alternator wired.

And I have the p08 it's at the shop with the rest but I'm gonna run the p07 for now cuz the p08 won't read the 4-wire o2 and because I'm gonna do the vtec wires later.
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Old 12-23-2007, 09:02 PM   #124
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UPDATE FOR TODAY!!!!

Got it running!!!! Yup we figured out the wiring, kept the b7 original ecu in for now and it runs GREAT. Talk about a MAJOR overhaul from that d15b7...

Back when I had the b7 the car rattled like hell just on idle and it was louder than shit and it felt like it would come apart. I guess it's better now cuz it's a much newer and cleaner motor and everything was taken apart and redone bolts tightened etc. Check engine light is on tho probably because I kept the d15b IM cuz they don't do smog tests here. Haven't got the chance to test drive yet.

Anyway the old problems like the rattling, radiator fan not working, and coolant not circulating have all gone away it runs like new and it's so much smoother the new tranny is really nice now I don't have a salty feeling when I shift. Finishing touches tomorrow!

All that's left to do really is mount the radiator on right...turns out the front end of my frame is slightly bent. Dunno why, but either I'm just gonna somehow rig up my own rubber bushings for it so it doesn't touch metal to metal or something. That and I forgot to put the rear heat shield back on the exhaust manifold so I'll be doing that too.

Then later on some time when I feel like it I'll wire up Vtec and convert to 1-wire o2 so I can run the p08 ecu and have vtec. Had some fun when we left to go buy the fluids we drove this other guy's 96 civic ex coupe and we drifted EVERY turn we took in town to get to O'reilys and back haha.
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Old 12-24-2007, 12:07 AM   #125
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awesome!! anything else giving you problems?
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skunk 2 valvetrain
stage 1 cams
type r bottom end
tri y header
stage 3 act clutch ftw
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