93civicracer

Yea where can I get rubber to make a bushing and how to do that for my radiator? LOL

And how do I take off the shift knob from my short-shift? I have one of those silver ones with the black textured part that EVERYONE else has but I want to buy the Spoon shift knob I think the Duracon model looks cool with the gear numbers and the Spoon logo .

I tried unscrewing it it doesn't move tried pulling it off so I'm like wtf?

__________________

93civicracer

Update for today...

Test drive was shitty...it's running very lean it was like every 5 mph I had to shift haha. So we took a look at the service manual and had to jump the fuel pump relay and then I got fuel. So on wednesday (sp? I hate the way that fucking day is) I'm gonna check the junkyards for a 92-95 fuel pump relay if I can't find one then I'll check Honda but hopefully that's the last problem and I'm getting a new fuel filter too. I can use any 5th gen relay right or does the model matter?

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HATCHET_HONDA

the shift knob unscrews..prolly just really stuck on there..give it some muscle. jump the pump relay??? that dont make any sense.. did you hook up the o2 sensor?

and as far as the radiator goes.. the twin core should fit.. i dunno why it wouldnt work. is the mount bad?

__________________
admit it..your a ricer....

90 si hatch jdm d15b swap(done)
91 dx hatch b16 swap (in progress)

b16a block
95 gsr p&p head
skunk 2 valvetrain
stage 1 cams
type r bottom end
tri y header
stage 3 act clutch ftw

93civicracer

Lol I thought that shift knob was supposed to unscrew...mine just keeps unscrewing but goes nowhere.

Yea we had to put a jumper on the pump relay (you know the one in the interior next to the clutch pedal) then I turned the key on (but did'nt start the motor) and that was the only way we could get fuel. Then we tested the relay itself for conductivity with a voltage meter..turns out it's no good. The o2 sensor's fine.

And about the radiator it's fine too but the frame is bent in the front so it doesn't sit low enough to clear the hood.

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HATCHET_HONDA

ahhh yes the ol fender bender problem.. how much lower does the hood have to go?? try cutting some of the webbing off the underside of the hood. and is the knob stuck on your new shorty shifter? or the stock shifter? and yeah..pretty much all hondas and acuras main relays around your year would work..just prolly not like from a 2000 or something

__________________
admit it..your a ricer....

90 si hatch jdm d15b swap(done)
91 dx hatch b16 swap (in progress)

b16a block
95 gsr p&p head
skunk 2 valvetrain
stage 1 cams
type r bottom end
tri y header
stage 3 act clutch ftw

93civicracer

The hood needs less than an inch more clearance and I can't cut because it's the metal part of the hood the little part that actually goes into the latch that's banging on my radiator. So pretty much my radiator will just be mounted by some makeshift rubber bushings like I said lol.

O yea by the way I kept p/s but I yanked the a/c. It's winter and I only need heat. But Texas summers are brutal...I'm probably gonna regret that haha but o well I have the fan and the condensor but I need a new belt cuz I got lazy and snipped it instead of taking off p/s first to get it out of the way. I'd rather open the windows anyway.

I wonder what price I could get a POS 5th gen sedan from a junkyard for parts..cuz I need both kick panels, a gauge cluster with a tach, and the dash panel that goes over the cluster (since I scratched the shit out of mine removing it to check my cluster wiring since a light isn't working on it), and a couple of other things like that fuel pump relay and then once I finish up with the interior a friend of mine knows a guy at a body shop who he says will hook me up with nice exterior touch-ups for cheap. Like some dents and dings, remove the fake type r emblem from the hood and bondo/fill the holes, bondo/repaint the little panels off my z3 fenders with the vents (it fell off LOL clips are all broken), and just touch-up painting and realign the front bumper.

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HATCHET_HONDA

yep....my ef's a/c worked fine but i yanked it too... id rather cruise wit the windows down and rice blaring anyway..lol fixin to get a cat back here soon..ill post a vid of how it sounds. other than the hood problem all you need is vtec and your good?

__________________
admit it..your a ricer....

90 si hatch jdm d15b swap(done)
91 dx hatch b16 swap (in progress)

b16a block
95 gsr p&p head
skunk 2 valvetrain
stage 1 cams
type r bottom end
tri y header
stage 3 act clutch ftw

93civicracer

Yea, Vtec needs to be wired then I gotta convert from 4-wire to 1-wire o2 since I used my old harness, but I already have the po8 ecu so I'm gonna run that since I don't have to worry about emissions here .

I don't know how to do either..I couldn't make sense out of the vtec wiring write-up in the tech articles and there's only write-ups for 1-wire to 4-wire I need the other way around. I'll probably take a look at the wiring diagrams to see which 1 of those 4 wires from my harness matches the 1-wire from the JDM sensor and splice it to the corresponding pin.

Or...wait maybe the 4-wire to 1-wire is unnecessary if that 1-wire is one of those 4 wires anyways since the p08 will only read that 1 wire...I dunno I gotta figure it out.

__________________

HATCHET_HONDA

ok.. you have a 1 wire plug righ?

__________________
admit it..your a ricer....

90 si hatch jdm d15b swap(done)
91 dx hatch b16 swap (in progress)

b16a block
95 gsr p&p head
skunk 2 valvetrain
stage 1 cams
type r bottom end
tri y header
stage 3 act clutch ftw

93civicracer

Right now I have the USDM d15b7 wiring harness. So I have the 4-wire plug, and the 4-wire sensor on the EM right now the 4-wire sensor is on and hooked up and in use. But the d15b vtec came with a 1-wire, so I DO have the 1-wire with the plug on one end and the threads for the EM on the other end, sitting in my trunk with the rest of the spare parts.

But I don't know if the p08 will work right with a USDM harness in it sending it info from a 4-wire sensor when it's programmed to read a 1-wire o2 sensor.

__________________

HATCHET_HONDA

first you need another ecu(with vtec)...p07 or like the one i gots for my d15b p28...either work well just p07 uses a one wire. id go with the p28 since you got a 4 wire plug and sensor already on the exhaust mani

__________________
admit it..your a ricer....

90 si hatch jdm d15b swap(done)
91 dx hatch b16 swap (in progress)

b16a block
95 gsr p&p head
skunk 2 valvetrain
stage 1 cams
type r bottom end
tri y header
stage 3 act clutch ftw

93civicracer

Lol I ordered the p08 with the d15b vtec and transmission. It's at the shop.

p07 is the d15b7 ecu, nonvtec. I got the p08 original for the d15b vtec.

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HATCHET_HONDA

lol i meant p08..damn that 7 key is sneaky..you can either get the p28 that would use the 4 wire or just swap plugs and such. you take the same color wire thats on the one wire sensor (prolly black) ground) and stick that wire into a one wire engine harness plug. ittl work just the same. the other wires are o2 heater and stuff... uneeded

__________________
admit it..your a ricer....

90 si hatch jdm d15b swap(done)
91 dx hatch b16 swap (in progress)

b16a block
95 gsr p&p head
skunk 2 valvetrain
stage 1 cams
type r bottom end
tri y header
stage 3 act clutch ftw

93civicracer

Yea but are you sure the p08 won't be confused by having the other 3 wires in it even though they're not hooked up?

By the way if I can use the 1-wire sensor I'll give you my 4-wire for just the price of shipping .

__________________

HATCHET_HONDA

if it doesnt use those wires..it wont know the difference, like they were never there

__________________
admit it..your a ricer....

90 si hatch jdm d15b swap(done)
91 dx hatch b16 swap (in progress)

b16a block
95 gsr p&p head
skunk 2 valvetrain
stage 1 cams
type r bottom end
tri y header
stage 3 act clutch ftw

93civicracer

O yea dumbass me now I see what you mean the other 3 won't even be connected LOL. K I'll do that when I get around to buying some wire for vtec and o2. Thanks a lot man.

__________________

HATCHET_HONDA

have you tried rywire.com for a vtec sub harness? it might make your wiring a lil easier...

itll have just what you need to wire vtec

__________________
admit it..your a ricer....

90 si hatch jdm d15b swap(done)
91 dx hatch b16 swap (in progress)

b16a block
95 gsr p&p head
skunk 2 valvetrain
stage 1 cams
type r bottom end
tri y header
stage 3 act clutch ftw

93civicracer

I'm pretty sure my d15b harness came with a vtec subharness I'll check when I get up to the shop after I get that fuel pump relay and cluster w/tach installed. If not I'll hit up rywire .

Also how much did you fill up the transmission fluid?? And what did you use transmission fluid or the sg grade 10w-30 motor oil? The manual recommends 10w-30 oil not MT fluid..Honda MT fluid isn't even mentioned.

And how much did you put in? I pumped the fluid in until it started spilling out then I let it spill out and get even with the filler hole. Am I good?

__________________

HATCHET_HONDA

yeah..fill it even with the filler plug hole... yeah no m/t fluid here.. just good clean engine oil. i dunno what your year trans requires but my ef's 5 speed uses 5-w30 motor oil

__________________
admit it..your a ricer....

90 si hatch jdm d15b swap(done)
91 dx hatch b16 swap (in progress)

b16a block
95 gsr p&p head
skunk 2 valvetrain
stage 1 cams
type r bottom end
tri y header
stage 3 act clutch ftw

93civicracer

I've got 5w-30 in the motor and 10w-30 in the tranny I just followed the manual.

__________________

philyphreak2127

not to be an ass but turboing a motor entails having a turbo exhaust manifold, meaning there is no need for headers, but if you already have some headers and you get a turbo let me know I am looking for some d-series headers. and the intake won't go on the throttle body anymore it will go on the intake side of the turbo. Are you going to be installing the kit yourself? If so I would suggest looking at every write up or article and asking some of the repsected members of this site that have done it before. Just a suggestion. don't wanna ruin that brand new motor!

HATCHET_HONDA

yea man good advice..learn as much as possible before you dive into anything..

__________________
admit it..your a ricer....

90 si hatch jdm d15b swap(done)
91 dx hatch b16 swap (in progress)

b16a block
95 gsr p&p head
skunk 2 valvetrain
stage 1 cams
type r bottom end
tri y header
stage 3 act clutch ftw

93civicracer

LOL. I know that and I've already done some research and I still have a lot to do while I save for the next year for the turbo kit but thanks for lookin out for me guys .

Took me 5 months of saving and research to get everything straight about my swap . I was going for a b16 sir-2 but then I was like yea right that'll take a year or so not to mention this IS my only car and I'd rather have a $500 block to turbocharge incase I blow it up it's cheap. Not to mention my goal is easily and affordably realistic on a stock D, 200-230 at the wheels . You know for that extra get-up and go, and it should be enough for more efficient drifting omg drifting is so fun even with a fwd I drifted this guy's 96 EX and I just couldn't get enough of it.

200 whp in a Ferio (dx model) should be enough to get those tires spinning and be enough power for drifting right?

__________________

93civicracer

A few pics of the Ferio I took before the swap .



That's it . When I get the car back from the shop I'll post pics of the d15b vtec .

__________________

philyphreak2127

check this site: d-series turbo kit $400. Honda Performance Racing Products for International Sales from SSAutochrome Inc.