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JBHonda · 01-09-2003, 05:57 PM

You say its only about 100 bucks. I live in Fl man the shipping alone would be enough for me to buy a new car.

hcivic.com · 01-09-2003, 06:00 PM

they have two locations and they do lose parts
so dissaseble the engine
pistons 8/each
rods/knucles 5/eack
valves/2 each
it not that bad I live in canada and got shipped for 50 us there and back

JBHonda · 01-09-2003, 06:05 PM

their locations are in WA and Alaska. I live in FL. If you dont know where that is sense your in canada ... that is across the country.

hcivic.com · 01-09-2003, 06:07 PM

I know where that is and there are other companeys that offer the same service I am shure there is a place near you

Calesta · 01-09-2003, 08:23 PM

Damn, tons of info in this thread... tons of bad info too, but mostly good info.

HMC- welcome to the board. I like your input.

Hexen- that list of prices looks pretty damn familiar... who wrote it?

Cryo stuff:

If you just freeze your parts from room temperature, you're not going to do shit to the grain structure. The whole idea of cryo treating your parts is to freeze the grain structure at a certain point in the cooling process- so you first have to heat the metal enough to cause the grains in the metal to start reforming and merging with each other. I don't have all my grain structure and phase change diagrams in front of me with all the alpha/beta/gamma/etc points, but trust me- if you heat to the right temperature, then quench to a super cool temperature- you'll cool the metla fast enough to freeze it at a stronger grain structure. There really IS a difference between .1 seconds to freeze and .05... it all depends on where the metal phase is at, and what the grain composition is at freezing. If the cryo company is just heating to some arbitrary temperature and then dipping in liquid nitrogen, they could easily end up with a weaker part than they started with- but heating to the exact right temperature and then quenching immediately with liquid nitro to freeze the metal structure at the strongest phase WILL increase strength. How precise is the cryo company? I'm curious...

If you really want proof, I'll take pictures of my materials processing books and post the phase information here. I've actually done strength and hardness testing with different quenches from the same heated temperature, and different quences DO make a difference. Just putting parts in the freezer isn't going to do a damn thing though...

Calesta · 01-09-2003, 08:25 PM

JBHonda- contact Intercrew Auto Salon. They built my engine, and they can also build one damn mean D16 if you want. They're the ones who built the D16 pushing 240whp... and it's getting much more powerful as soon as the new turbo setup goes on, and it gets enough fuel. The guy who owns it actually works in the shop- hell he probably did part of my engine swap. If you want a bulletproof D16 on boost, Intercrew's definitely one place to look up.

Oh yeah- call them at 214-575-6288. Tell them that Michael sent you.

lsvtec · 01-09-2003, 09:38 PM

Thank you Calesta, that was exactly what I was looking for. From their site there is no way to know how precise they are. I was seriously unimpressed with the lack of real information there.

asmallsol · 01-09-2003, 10:31 PM

Actually, putting parts in your freezer might make them easyer to get on (pistons, wrist pins, stuff like that) but freezing them in yourwill do jack shit other then make your shit .0001 % smaller for about 20 minutes.

But liquid N2 is not -400 degrees because your are past absolute zero (cant get colder then that, everthing stops and falls apart at that temp) Absolute zero happens at -396 F degrees. not sure what the actual temp of liquid n2 is but it is not -400

JBHonda · 01-09-2003, 11:20 PM

Thank you guys for your help. I look forward to your help in the near future. Calesta , im going to call them and see what they do for me.

<-- to all that have helped me. Thank you again

Calesta · 01-09-2003, 11:28 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by lsvtec@Jan 9 2003, 09:43 PM
[b] Thank you Calesta, that was exactly what I was looking for. From their site there is no way to know how precise they are. I was seriously unimpressed with the lack of real information there.

I didn't hit the site... I just knew what he was talking about, since I've done it before.

Calesta · 01-09-2003, 11:29 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by JBHonda@Jan 9 2003, 11:25 PM
[b] Thank you guys for your help. I look forward to your help in the near future. Calesta , im going to call them and see what they do for me.

<-- to all that have helped me. Thank you again

Sure thing. Let me know what they said- just tell them that "Mike told me about Daniel's setup, and I want something similar".

Calesta · 01-09-2003, 11:30 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by asmallsol@Jan 9 2003, 10:36 PM
[b] Actually, putting parts in your freezer might make them easyer to get on (pistons, wrist pins, stuff like that) but freezing them in yourwill do jack shit other then make your shit .0001 % smaller for about 20 minutes.

But liquid N2 is not -400 degrees because your are past absolute zero (cant get colder then that, everthing stops and falls apart at that temp) Absolute zero happens at -396 F degrees. not sure what the actual temp of liquid n2 is but it is not -400

I believe Rankine measures down to like -459 R or something like that... not sure about Fahrenheit, but you're right- 0K is -273 Celcius.

JBHonda · 01-09-2003, 11:30 PM

what is his setup? cause I was wanting more than 240 whp

asmallsol · 01-10-2003, 12:01 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by JBHonda@Jan 10 2003, 12:35 AM
[b] what is his setup? cause I was wanting more than 240 whp

240 whp is a shit load of hp. Unless you are paying 400 a tire for some good street slicks, unless your a good driver (dont say "no one beats me, I am race worrior God" kind of thing,) going over that is pointless because all you will have is wheel spin. True if your going to be running slicks, you might be able to harness more but it is pointless

not only that, going anyhigher will not be streetable, will not be reliaible, and will not be practical (lots of money) again as we have all said 20380239 times, the b series engines car go above that 240 and still be streetable.

JBHonda · 01-10-2003, 12:07 AM

what things would i need to make my car reliable besides a good radiator? and a biult engine?

SleEPeR_CRX · 01-10-2003, 12:08 AM

I have a friend, that is running approx. 260whp outa his Turbo GSR. he is running lame tires and it drives fine on street.

hcivic.com · 01-10-2003, 04:57 AM

absolute zero is at -459.67°F alot below 400 or 273 o calvin

Calesta · 01-10-2003, 02:10 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by asmallsol@Jan 10 2003, 12:06 AM
[b] not only that, going anyhigher will not be streetable, will not be reliaible, and will not be practical (lots of money) again as we have all said 20380239 times, the b series engines car go above that 240 and still be streetable.

I doubt that... he's pushing 240whp and it's his daily driver. He was only looking for more because he wasn't able to flow enough fuel over 5500rpm, and after that he wasn't making enough boost for his liking. It's a full show car with a killer turbo setup- he's looking for 12s because it's "good enough" for a show car. It's his daily driver too. He has no problems driving it around town all the time... I don't see why you couldn't put quite a bit more down to the ground and still be streetable on a D16.

MaaseyRacer · 01-10-2003, 02:23 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by JBHonda@Jan 7 2003, 05:53 PM
[b] Check this out http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Factory.../newengine.html

hey that thing did not dyno at 500hp
check this out this is the home page for that site:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Factory.../2924/cars.html

that car only dyno'd in at 246hp

joeNOKO · 01-21-2010, 09:39 PM

idk but my homie ran a 12.9 in his daily drivin eg hatch wit a boosted z6. cammed with oem rods and a basemap tune... 16psi.. and we raggd on that hoe alot.

eg6sir · 01-21-2010, 09:46 PM

ok gravedigger.. enough

01-09-2003, 08:23 PM	#80
Calesta Posts: 27,335	Damn, tons of info in this thread... tons of bad info too, but mostly good info. HMC- welcome to the board. I like your input. Hexen- that list of prices looks pretty damn familiar... who wrote it? Cryo stuff: If you just freeze your parts from room temperature, you're not going to do shit to the grain structure. The whole idea of cryo treating your parts is to freeze the grain structure at a certain point in the cooling process- so you first have to heat the metal enough to cause the grains in the metal to start reforming and merging with each other. I don't have all my grain structure and phase change diagrams in front of me with all the alpha/beta/gamma/etc points, but trust me- if you heat to the right temperature, then quench to a super cool temperature- you'll cool the metla fast enough to freeze it at a stronger grain structure. There really IS a difference between .1 seconds to freeze and .05... it all depends on where the metal phase is at, and what the grain composition is at freezing. If the cryo company is just heating to some arbitrary temperature and then dipping in liquid nitrogen, they could easily end up with a weaker part than they started with- but heating to the exact right temperature and then quenching immediately with liquid nitro to freeze the metal structure at the strongest phase WILL increase strength. How precise is the cryo company? I'm curious... If you really want proof, I'll take pictures of my materials processing books and post the phase information here. I've actually done strength and hardness testing with different quenches from the same heated temperature, and different quences DO make a difference. Just putting parts in the freezer isn't going to do a damn thing though... __________________ DO NOT PM me with tech questions! Use the forums! Intercrew Auto Salon

01-09-2003, 08:25 PM	#81
Calesta Posts: 27,335	JBHonda- contact Intercrew Auto Salon. They built my engine, and they can also build one damn mean D16 if you want. They're the ones who built the D16 pushing 240whp... and it's getting much more powerful as soon as the new turbo setup goes on, and it gets enough fuel. The guy who owns it actually works in the shop- hell he probably did part of my engine swap. If you want a bulletproof D16 on boost, Intercrew's definitely one place to look up. Oh yeah- call them at 214-575-6288. Tell them that Michael sent you. __________________ DO NOT PM me with tech questions! Use the forums! Intercrew Auto Salon

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01-09-2003, 05:57 PM	#76
JBHonda Posts: 53	You say its only about 100 bucks. I live in Fl man the shipping alone would be enough for me to buy a new car.

01-09-2003, 06:00 PM	#77
hcivic.com Posts: 4,571	they have two locations and they do lose parts so dissaseble the engine pistons 8/each rods/knucles 5/eack valves/2 each it not that bad I live in canada and got shipped for 50 us there and back

01-09-2003, 06:05 PM	#78
JBHonda Posts: 53	their locations are in WA and Alaska. I live in FL. If you dont know where that is sense your in canada ... that is across the country.

01-09-2003, 06:07 PM	#79
hcivic.com Posts: 4,571	I know where that is and there are other companeys that offer the same service I am shure there is a place near you

01-09-2003, 09:38 PM	#82
lsvtec Posts: 5,453	Thank you Calesta, that was exactly what I was looking for. From their site there is no way to know how precise they are. I was seriously unimpressed with the lack of real information there.

01-09-2003, 10:31 PM	#83
asmallsol Posts: 8,075	Actually, putting parts in your freezer might make them easyer to get on (pistons, wrist pins, stuff like that) but freezing them in yourwill do jack shit other then make your shit .0001 % smaller for about 20 minutes. But liquid N2 is not -400 degrees because your are past absolute zero (cant get colder then that, everthing stops and falls apart at that temp) Absolute zero happens at -396 F degrees. not sure what the actual temp of liquid n2 is but it is not -400

01-09-2003, 11:20 PM	#84
JBHonda Posts: 53	Thank you guys for your help. I look forward to your help in the near future. Calesta , im going to call them and see what they do for me. <-- to all that have helped me. Thank you again

01-09-2003, 11:30 PM	#88
JBHonda Posts: 53	what is his setup? cause I was wanting more than 240 whp

01-10-2003, 12:07 AM	#90
JBHonda Posts: 53	what things would i need to make my car reliable besides a good radiator? and a biult engine?

01-10-2003, 12:08 AM	#91
SleEPeR_CRX Posts: 1,226	I have a friend, that is running approx. 260whp outa his Turbo GSR. he is running lame tires and it drives fine on street.

01-21-2010, 09:46 PM	#96
eg6sir Posts: 21,077	ok gravedigger.. enough

01-10-2003, 04:57 AM	#92
hcivic.com Posts: 4,571	absolute zero is at -459.67°F alot below 400 or 273 o calvin

01-21-2010, 09:39 PM	#95
joeNOKO Posts: 2	idk but my homie ran a 12.9 in his daily drivin eg hatch wit a boosted z6. cammed with oem rods and a basemap tune... 16psi.. and we raggd on that hoe alot.

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