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#1 |
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Member
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I have a 93 ex civic that started to develope some problems a few weeks ago. all problems are off and on. 1st about half the time starting it will turn slowly for a few seconds sounding like the battery is dying but it will finally start. the 2nd issue is every now and then while driving the tachometer and speedometer will both simultaneously drop to zero but the motor itself is running just fine with no variance in rpms or speed. and the last problem is the tach and speedometer do the same thing occasionaly when using the turn signals, so if anyone has any answers that would be the jam. thanks everyone
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#2 |
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you get the BRAKE
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Wiring issue and/or inoperative VSS (vehicle speed sensor).
Check starting/charging system. Can be discharging battery, or faulty alternator. __________________
eg hatch (jdm b16) sold 1999 Yamaha YZF R6 (modded) http://hondaswap.com/engine-building...ow-pics-102486 sold |
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#3 |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 53
iTrader: 0 / 0%
Ride: Anything with 4 wheels
Rep Power: 5
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Maybe start with checking some grounds. Check the chassis to engine ground in the right front of th engine bay. It's a bigger cable that I believe will be black with a yellow tracer. Also there is probably one from the valve cover to the radiator support. Most problems like that can be traced back to grounds. If you have access to a Hanes or Chiltons manual, they usually have ground circuit wiring diagrams. You may also check your battery connections and maybe put a volt meter on your battery with your engine running. You may have an alternator going bad. You should have around 13.8 volts. Sometimes overcharging can make funny things happen. Anything above 14.5 volt and I would worry. Anything below 12.8 and I would also worry.
Hope this helps __________________
1987 CRX Si-Stock 1998 Civic-B18C 2001 Suburban 2500-8.1 Big Block 1915 Model T Speedster-Original 1974 914 Porsche-Somewhat Original Unlimited class 125cc Shifter kart Previous toys 1985 CRX Si-D stock Champion 1986 CRX Si-Daily driver 1984 Wagoner-Tow vehicle 1968 Formula Vee 1995 Tahoe-Tow vehicle 1976 911-track car project 1986 CRX Si- Rust bucket for parts 1982 Dodge Rampage-Kind of still have in pieces 1989 Civic-DX 1984 GTI 1966 Ranchero 1984 Civic Hatch 1971 Karman Ghia |
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#4 |
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you get the BRAKE
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Checking charging system voltage (when running) is tricky, especially with just a multi-meter. You need to put a load on the engine, and then another load on the electrical system, I.E. headlights, to make an educated decision on the charging systems performance.
__________________
eg hatch (jdm b16) sold 1999 Yamaha YZF R6 (modded) http://hondaswap.com/engine-building...ow-pics-102486 sold |
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#5 |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 53
iTrader: 0 / 0%
Ride: Anything with 4 wheels
Rep Power: 5
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Puttin a test meter across the batter leads is a very easy way to determine if you charging system is working. A battery will read around 12.8 volts when it is fully charged and the engine is not running. With the engine running it should read around 13.8. I don't care what kind of car it is. Having the lights or anything else on should pull a load from your alternator and not your battery. So having those things on isn't neccessary. You can to see if you have a weak alternator, but to find out if it's putting out anything just put a test meter on the battery with the engine not running and when it's running.
Try it on a vehicle that you know is in good working condition and you will see.... __________________
1987 CRX Si-Stock 1998 Civic-B18C 2001 Suburban 2500-8.1 Big Block 1915 Model T Speedster-Original 1974 914 Porsche-Somewhat Original Unlimited class 125cc Shifter kart Previous toys 1985 CRX Si-D stock Champion 1986 CRX Si-Daily driver 1984 Wagoner-Tow vehicle 1968 Formula Vee 1995 Tahoe-Tow vehicle 1976 911-track car project 1986 CRX Si- Rust bucket for parts 1982 Dodge Rampage-Kind of still have in pieces 1989 Civic-DX 1984 GTI 1966 Ranchero 1984 Civic Hatch 1971 Karman Ghia |
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