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This is a discussion on Final help installing JDM h22a in civic hatch in the HYBRID -> EG-EK / DC forum
I am doing a complete write-up on how to make a civic fast for aeiperformance.com, and we have decided that the best car would be a 92-95 civic hatch with a JDM H22a. I have the hatch, and the H22a, and the mounts and axles ...
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|10-24-2003, 01:58 AM||#1|
I am doing a complete write-up on how to make a civic fast for aeiperformance.com, and we have decided that the best car would be a 92-95 civic hatch with a JDM H22a.
I have the hatch, and the H22a, and the mounts and axles
I understand most of the wiring, and shift linkage.
Some things i could not find are:
Where to get the shift linkage, my motor came with it all cut off a foot from the tranny.
Where do i get the magic resistor box described in the h22 bible?
Do i use the stock wiring harness from my civic, the h22 motor, and the p13 prelude JDM ecu?
there is surely more i will wonder later for the swap, but that is all as of now.
any information will be greatly appreciated, and when i am done i will surely stick around to help anyone on their swap. also we will be posting everything we do at aeiperformance.com
|10-24-2003, 03:17 AM||#2|
You will need a smaller radiator fan.
Forget abou A/C and P/S. (Unless you want to do a lot of extra work)
BTW! I haven't done this swap, it's just the info i got so far.
|10-24-2003, 04:06 AM||#3|
Good, i knew about the fan, but forgot it in the post. Also i dont plan on needing PS or AC. My civic doesnt have PS now, and i dont even use AC. That is what windows are for.
So does anyone know about the resistor box? Or the harness (civic or prelude)
|10-26-2003, 08:25 PM||#4|
|10-26-2003, 11:38 PM||#5|
im doing the same swap myself on my 92 hb si. I have been guided through the H22 BIBLE as well and has helped alot. i got my complete swap hmotorsonline.com and they sent me the mount kit and the tranny cables were good,not cut off. u need to find the shifter cable mechanism from a junk yard. i heard the from a 90 prelude or a 90 accord will do. i got one from a 95 accord from a junk yard. i already have the motor in but i cant seem to figure out the wiring part. my motor came with the resistor box so the injector wiring was no big deal. thats basically all i know(which i learned from hondaswap forums) so thanks to you all i have gotten this far. but if you can help me out on the wiring, i will help you out wherever i can. I have a 1/2 inch clearance on my cv joints and the a-arm, i dont know if thats enough space or if they sent me the wrong cv joints. Can anybody help me out with that?
|10-28-2003, 12:21 AM||#6|
thanks so much everyone for the info.
i will look into the sellers of the swap to see if i can find the cables. i am curious what people paid for the motors. I paid 2211 for a shipped h22a with trans and ecu. cables were cut, but motor is beautiful. when it tore it down (timing / clutch) the clutch still had about 60% and it looked as if it had never been changed (bolts were all unscarred) also there was a MOMO oil filter. I didnt even know those guys made oil filters. Well so far i've only learned the following:
Timing belt is a pain. I figured out how to get it without honda's tool for the tensioner. I took it off of the car (the aluminum tensioner wtih the plunger inside under the black boot) and removed the small bolt from the bottom. oil leaked out, but who cares, inside there is a place for a flathead screwdriver. the tensioner / plunger assembly is not compressible at all, but as you turn the inside with a screwdriver clockwise, you can compress the plunger into the body of the tensioner. Once you have it all the way tight, just put about 4 5" pieces of masking tape over the plunger, sticking them to the left and right of the assembly (as it sits in the car) someone will have to hold it for you, especially because of the oil leaking out on your hands. make sure to replace the bolt on the bottom. after you let go of the screwdriver, the plunger will go into the tape, that is holding it down, and stretch it a little. the masking tape holds just enough so that you can get the belt on, and remove the tape after everything is in place.
in the case that you cannot find anywhere telling how to line up the belt, just put the closest cylinder (#1) to top dead center (take out the plug and stick something long into it, and turn the crank until it is at its highest point), then make sure the keyway of the crank is on the top, lining the bottom timing belt pulley's mark with the mark on the block, and make sure the arrows on the cam gears are pointing straight up, and that the hash marks on the cam gears are lined up (with eachother). this should make everything aligned, and when the belt is on (it took me some hammering and swearing) remove the tape, and the tensioner will tighten everyhting up. turn the crank two full times (counterclockwise) and check all of the marks again. everything should line up.
That's all i know so far, other than removing the PS, AC, and valve cover. I'll go look for the linkage now.
Does anyone know how much for the intermediate shaft at a junkyard?
|10-28-2003, 01:19 AM||#7|
ok i dont know what everyone is talking about some friggen resistor box..? my jdm h22a runs fine without it. i have a full sohc vtec harness modified to h22a specs. i just took the injectors off of the jdm h22 harness and put them on the sohc vtec harness and everything works great. and if i had to buy shift linkage i get it from hasport i think they have it. I paid $2000 for the motor, complete engine with LSD all sensors except map, linkage, uncut harness, and ecu. i picked the engine up myself.
|10-28-2003, 03:18 PM||#9|
h22 bible? and what is this resistor box everyone is talking about, i'm done with my swap and just working out bugs, it turns over and sparks but no fuel, could this be the problem?
|10-30-2003, 07:03 PM||#10|
i got fuel running to my motor, but i cant get no spark. i changed the cap and rotor and still nothing. i figured out that their is spark to the distributor but no spark from the coil to wires/plugs. i have the jdm h22a so i have the internal coil. i have talked to techs and they said to check the timing to make sure its not retarted and check the crank sensor. if its the crank sensor do i have to replace the whole distributor? i guess thats when the hmotorsonline 100% start up guarantee comes in affect. anyone have suggestions? as for the resistor box, my came with the motor. h22 bible... i read a sweet thread by poison who did the bible with some other buddies. u can find it on the eg threads under "h22 bible" i work at the honda dealership down here in texas so i got the techs from here checking it out, but since they never done a hybrid swap before, they kinda lost.
Someone help my ass out so i can get my daily driver out of the shop.
|11-03-2003, 08:21 PM||#11|
so far this is what i've got
1850 92 civic VX hatch
2211 jdm h22a motor with tranny and ecu
7.56 NGK V-Power plugs
50 Ground Control front springs,
50 Progressive rear springs
349.95 AVID Racing axles
339.98 AVID Racing mounts
65.59 OEM Replacement water pump
from 99 lude
6.99 HONDA oil filter
35.56 Generic timing belt
10.50 generic balance shaft belt
12.19 91 integra top radiator hose
12.19 94 del sol lower radiator hose
13.49 94 integra LS distributor cap
for jdm internally coiled ignition
19.99 NAPA 25-060370 alternator belt
no PS or AC here!!!!
18.49 generic oil pan gasget
250 South Bend Clutch DXD clutch
full face carbon/kevlar pressure plate side
graphite imppregnated 12 puck flywheel side
that makes 5369.86 invested so far. i still have to get
accord intermediate shaft
so does anyone have a LINK to somewhere that sells shift linkage for an accord or a prelude. mine was cut, and that is all i need.
hope everything is going well for you with your swaps.
|11-06-2003, 01:53 AM||#13|
if you havent found the cable linkage yet, i have one from a 95 accord 5speed i believe. i bought the shift mechanism and the gave me the cables too. my jdm h22a came with the cables so im gonna use those with the accord shift mechanism so i guess i can get rid of the accord cable linkage. were you located at? im down here in texas.
hit me up if your interested. ill ship it to you at your expense though cause i dont know what it costs to ship out.
|11-10-2003, 12:06 AM||#14|
everyone is posting.
I am in the process of making pictures of the EG, and pics so far of the swappage. My clutch is the sickest thing other than the motor so far.
i'll post once i get the page built (pictures).
I think i'll buy the cables from electron, but still need an assembly and an intermediate shaft
the unanswered question is - where do i get the magical resistor box?
|12-04-2003, 12:44 AM||#16|
project is going well, axles are in from AVID, and they are quite beefy. i had trouble handling the box!
final parts are being ordered friday, and swap should take place sometime around christmas
|12-06-2003, 10:16 PM||#18|
the axles need to be bought, there is no direct swap from any year of model of honda, people have made them with CV joints from different axles and shasfts from others, with splines from others, but this is more expensive, and less reliable than a good aftermarket axle. I got mine from aeiperformance.com, they are not available from the site, but the store ordered them for me from AVID racing. I gt them a week ago, and they are beefy as hell. The shafts are about as big around as a US quarter!!!
E-mail rob at email@example.com and tell him mike sent you to get a quote on the axles from this page. I'm sure that will be the best price around, and you know from me that the axles will be TOP quality. I'll post pictues of the axles if anyone needs them.
Until next time, KEEP TUNING.
|12-07-2003, 01:16 AM||#20|
resistor box is out of a 90-93 accord. By the way just a little helpful info, If you have the h22a with the internal coil... the dist. cap you need is from a 94 integra LS. Also, you dont need the resistor box if the motor is newer than 97' they came with saturated injectors.
|12-07-2003, 04:22 AM||#21|
no resistor box?!?!?!!
this is new, i've heard of people not using them, and i know my motor is from a 97 up. what about JDM
do you have any documentation that tells about these injecotrs?
thanks for the info.
|01-02-2004, 02:16 PM||#23|
sweet on the injectors, i'll try it without the injector box
i finally got up and ordered teh final parts, so everything is starting when we get those.
aiming for high 12s with nitrous and slicks in the spring
anyone with this swap done please post your times, also i am looking for speed upgrades, no necessarily HP gains. If i can get some shocks that'll take .10 off that is as good as some funky injecors that can do the same. I've heard that NA cars really really benefit from fuel, so i am looking into a 255 pump with some kind of controller, probably SAFC. I want to work with VTEC as much as i can, but i dont even know how to tune a VAFC, which is what i am using for vtec.
oh, if anyone knows how to make a VTEC LED for my dash, i could really use one.
thanks everyone for posting
|01-04-2004, 11:50 AM||#25|
i LOVE it when people will take some tiem out to draw something like that, someone who obviously just wants to help me out, to help out the scene.
thanks so much rudeludenotmeanthough
parts still arent here, but they've shipped.
vtec project is today now that i have wiring diagrams,
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