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This is a discussion on H22A: H2B Kit Information & Questions in the HYBRID -> EG-EK / DC forum
So ive noticed an astounding lack of h22a questions, so I figured I would shoot some. I recently did a b16a swap into my 93 hatch and I am loving it, other than not having low end power. This is the reason for me wanting ...
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|05-28-2006, 02:22 PM||#1|
So ive noticed an astounding lack of h22a questions, so I figured I would shoot some.
I recently did a b16a swap into my 93 hatch and I am loving it, other than not having low end power.
This is the reason for me wanting to do a h22a swap with the new quartersports h2b kit. The buzz over at honda-tech(dont flame me too much for that statement) is this new kit that allows you to use a b series tranny, axles, and mounts.
The kit costs about $900 and includes brackets for using your b series mounts, b series tranny, and axles.
It requires some grinding on the webbing at the back of the block to allow the bracket to be bolted up.
FRAME RAIL ISSUES:
*A SOHC alternator is required(because of its smaller size), as well is the use of a alternator bracket made by ExplicitSpeed that pulls the alternator closer to the block for further clearance(I dont know if the alternator is on the front of a motor on a H series motor, but if not, then this kit repositions it there.)
*The balance shafts located in the H series motors take up a suprising amount of extra rotating mass that can be eliminated with little to no side effects. A company by the name of Kaizen makes Balance Shaft eliminator kits that get rid of the pulleys, and get rid of that extra rotating mass. This makes timing belt changes easier, and provides you with a average of 4hp on a stock motor(dyno proven). Also not much extra vibration is incurred by the removal of these.
*Either you will need to get you stock H series crank pulley machined off so it just is 1 pulley, or somehow get your hands on a Accord EuroR OEM single pulley, which is almost impossible. The easiest wasy is to just have the stock pulley machined.
After all these mods you may still have some clearnace issues, which just have to be cured by banging in the frame rail a little bit.
The wiring I belive would be the same as on my b16a, other than the IACV valve I believe, or maybe it has something to do with secondary butterflies, I cant rightly remember as of now. I have heard some people use a resister box for the injectors for some reason. Could anyone elaborate on this?
Ill update this post continally and have a good, comprehensive post, if anyone is interested.
|06-03-2006, 10:27 AM||#2|
Alright, since no one on here has used the kit, ill provide more details, as I will be doing this pretty soon and it can be a tutorial for those who are wanting information. If you have any questions, feel free to ask:
*SO LOOK ABOVE FOR UPDATED POST*
|08-17-2006, 08:41 PM||#3|
Well, Ive got a new username because Woodster died on me when the website went down....
Just updating....so far I have bought the ExplicitSpeed Upper OEM D spec alternator bracket....a sohc alternator...my KaizenSpeed balance shaft elimination kit....and RC440 injectors....more to come!
|05-03-2007, 03:06 PM||#4|
i see u had a eg qith a b16 what car did u plan on putting the h2b in , im planning on startiing this h2b swap for my ek and would like to find everything that i need before starting and also would like to know all the various mod i need to do in order to make this fit.
|05-04-2007, 07:01 PM||#6|
actually i've been doing some research on these and been talkin to some poeple who have it done, and i've heard they make real good power but because the b series tranny is meant to rev up to 9000rpm and the h22 is only meant to rev at 7000rpms that the h22 spins bearings, so im now moving away from that thought.
|05-13-2007, 03:25 PM||#7|
use the evo h2b kit im happy w/ it...
when i bought it the ek/ej kit wasnt developed yet but wasnt a big deal, just buy the kit w/o mounts and use the 96-00 civic h-series mounts and then fab the d.s. block mount and everythingworks...
|04-21-2008, 11:07 PM||#8|
the entire h2b swap guide any questions just ask
i myself have done the evoloution h2b swap in my dc2 and i am happy with the kit.
A few advantages with the evo kit is that it sits lower than the quartersports so i didnt have to shim my hood i just had to cut a little of the webbing out and now it closes fine another good thing is that the give you a new half shaft carrier not some big bulky mounting bracket like the quartersports drag kit i also didn't have to machine the crank or buy an alternator bracket just a few small hits with a hammer and its fine it dont even look dented. now keep in mind this is in a dc2 c the ek civic will have to have the crank pulley machined and extensive beating for the alternator without the bracket. i also did the balance shaft removal. in a dc2 there is no need to leave out the crank spacer they give you with the kit but with a eg the clearance for the crank is closer so if you leave out the steel crank pulley spacer its moves the crank closer to the engine about a half an inch keep in mind you will have to grind on the alternator bracket about a half an inch and shim the oppisite side to get the belt to match up with the crank . that should solve all the mounting problems now for the wiring if you are OBD-1 you can use any obd-1 vtec harness you just have to extend a few things like the alternator wiring and iac. now the best ecu (not including the use of hondata of course) is a chipped p-28 for the reason it doesn't check for egr and there will be no IAB worries just run straight vacumn to the secondaries and no need to hook up the egr valve with this setup either. you also have to get creative on the upper radiator hose its not hard but do some thinking.
for you people doing the balance shaft removal yourself you can press in the plugs in the oil pump with any press yourself but i recommend taking the block girdle (which can be a pain to remove) to a machine shop if you do not have access to a micrometer or diocaliper the tolerances need to be right for the girdle everything else is straightfoward a tip though would be to take out the oil sending unit so you can collect the metal shavings that collect from drilling and tapping the oil journal in the block
thats all i can really think of for now oh and a heads up Tiger Japanese Auto Parts LTD - Home has h22's for 750 dollars i got mine for 899 shipped non tranny or ecu or wiring harness but i had everything else one other thing if you can help it GET A LSD cause first and second like to spin (ALOT) somethign you guys might be interested in also bone stock h22a balance shafts removed gsr y80 open diff tranny stock clutch header and exhaust ran a 8.7 in the 1/8 mile
sorry for the spelling and grammer errors i did this very fast let me kno if i left anything out and any corrections with the eg and ek civics my advice on those are from my friends that put the *quartersports drag kit* in there civics eg and ek not the evoloution kit like i used in my dc2
for you haters i know everything i said about the setup with the DC2 is correct i went through the whole thing in one day and got it in and running fine with the excact steps i gave you guys