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93civicracer · 03-01-2008, 05:09 PM

Alright here's the problems and other weird things I need to check out:

1. Still bogging at 1400-1500 rpms sounds like rev limiter, ignition timing is now dead-on. Cam timing? Quickest and easiest way to check cam timing? Could this even be the cause?

2. When I do redline pulls it seems like FIRST gear is hitting rev limiter at 6600 rpm, while the rest make it past 7200 rpm. What is this?

3. When I'm slowing down, there's a knocking sound coming from the front-right. Axel problem? Why is it doing this? Sounds exactly like a bad tie-rod but my car doesn't have tie rods.

4. The valve cover sometimes feels hot, and sometimes it doesn't. Overheating? I went to Autozone and I have a new fan switch gonna install it later.

ANY INPUT is very much appreciated I finally have time today and part of tomorrow to do something about these.

I'm saving up to replace the whole cooling system, new aluminum radiator dual-core, new fan and motor, waterpump, thermostat, all new hoses and clamps, timing belt, oil pump, fuel filter, battery and alternator, basic tune-up. Gonna start using Castrol Syntec oil also, 5w-30.

93civicracer · 03-01-2008, 06:55 PM

93civicracer · 03-01-2008, 09:37 PM

bump, need help

and if I were to adjust timing (it seems to only be a little off IF that's what's causing the engine to bog at 1500) then couldn't I just slide the belt off the cam pulley, rotate the came pulley by a tooth, and keep going til it's running right?

99sidude · 03-02-2008, 01:10 AM

The valve cover IS going to get hot. No question about that its normal. What ecu are you running?

99sidude · 03-02-2008, 01:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 93civicracer

bump, need help

and if I were to adjust timing (it seems to only be a little off IF that's what's causing the engine to bog at 1500) then couldn't I just slide the belt off the cam pulley, rotate the came pulley by a tooth, and keep going til it's running right?

Ok, rotate the crank pulley until the tdc mark is alligned. If the tdc mark on the cam gear is also alligned, then you're fine. If not, take the belt off and put it back on so they are.

93civicracer · 03-02-2008, 01:30 AM

I'm running the jdm p08 meant for the d15b vtec. Thanks for clearing up the hot valve cover deal it's just that it's sometimes hot, sometimes not.

And about the timing, can I do that without having to take off the lower cover and all that other shit like the p/s and alternator?

99sidude · 03-02-2008, 01:40 AM

to adjust it you're gonna have to pull all that shit off. To check it you dont. Just pull the upper cover to see the cam gear.

93civicracer · 03-02-2008, 01:57 AM

I thought you could just like slide the belt off from the cam gear and rotate the cam gear over a tooth or so then just keep doing that til it's running right. Thanks for the advice tho, any advice on the other problems?

99sidude · 03-02-2008, 02:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 93civicracer

I thought you could just like slide the belt off from the cam gear and rotate the cam gear over a tooth or so then just keep doing that til it's running right. Thanks for the advice tho, any advice on the other problems?

You may be able to do that. On my engine I have to pull the belt off of the tensioner to adjust the cam timing. Don't just adjust it till it runs right. Set it so the TDC marks on both pullies are alligned. Honda did that to make it easy for you so you dont have to do it trial and error.

99sidude · 03-02-2008, 02:09 AM

Describe the bogging in more detail. It it always bogging at 1400 rpm's? Does it do it all full throttle? How does the car behave at part throttle (i.e. cruising at constant speed)?

93civicracer · 03-02-2008, 02:14 AM

See it's like this. When you try to hold the throttle at 1400 rpms or slowly (really slowly) raise it, it sounds just like rev limiter but a little slower. And the more gas you give it (slowly while around 1400 rpms is where it starts) the more gas, the slower it hits and the harder and louder it sounds. When you full throttle that shit it just passes the 1400 area normally, and if you do it slow, it bogs at 1400 until you give it enough gas then it starts acting normal at like 3500-4000 rpms. Also it JUST started doing this only every now n then, but when you try to hold speed sometimes, it sounds real nasty and vibrates like hell and slows down, then I floor it to get back up to speed then I can hold it just fine. I'm guessing THAT's the TP sensor (which isn't throwing a CEL) but not sure about the bogging.

99sidude · 03-02-2008, 02:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 93civicracer

See it's like this. When you try to hold the throttle at 1400 rpms or slowly (really slowly) raise it, it sounds just like rev limiter but a little slower. And the more gas you give it (slowly while around 1400 rpms is where it starts) the more gas, the slower it hits and the harder and louder it sounds. When you full throttle that shit it just passes the 1400 area normally, and if you do it slow, it bogs at 1400 until you give it enough gas then it starts acting normal at like 3500-4000 rpms. Also it JUST started doing this only every now n then, but when you try to hold speed sometimes, it sounds real nasty and vibrates like hell and slows down, then I floor it to get back up to speed then I can hold it just fine. I'm guessing THAT's the TP sensor but not sure about the bogging.

LOL this sounds like exactly what my car has been doing for awhile. It still isn't fixed so you can take my advice with a grain of salt.... I initially thought it was the tps. I repaced that, nothing. I then checked fuel pressure. It was way too high. I bought a FPR to turn it down, and while I was able to reduce it, it still it too high. That didn't fix anything. Keep in mind I have a Walbro pump pushing alot more volume of fuel.

I had changed the plugs and wires, and that didn't do anything. My next step is the distributor. That is in shippment right now so i'll have to get back to you on how that goes. Ignition could be your problem. Think about it. Our motors are at least 13 years old. Thats a lot of time for rubber and plastic to get old and fail.

I have a wideband on my car and the car has always ran really rich at idle and part throttle. Infact it runs richer at idle than at full throttle. Fucked up I know.

First id check the cam timing. If thats not it look at the ignition.

93civicracer · 03-02-2008, 02:28 AM

Damn if I had a video camera I'd post a vid to let ya know what it's like. But yea my ignitions good timing is dead-on and I don't see why the ignition timing would do that.

99sidude · 03-02-2008, 02:32 AM

If something in the system that delivers the spark is bad, then having your ignition timing set right doesn't mean shit. If something is fowled up, then the system might not be delivering spark when it shoud, causing the bogging.

93civicracer · 03-02-2008, 04:36 AM

Could it be a battery cable going bad? Last I saw when I wired in my vtec my positive battery cable was pretty bad. Like most of the outer wiring is severed but the inner wiring is good, gonna replace that for sure.

The reason I saw it was because I was having so much trouble trying to get the vtec wires thru the firewall where the engine harness goes thru, you know thru that rubber cover? I couldn't get thru so I just routed it over the fuse box inside the fender thru the door and grounded it to one of the bolts on the inside of the door, looks kind of cheap you can see the vtec wires going under the carpet I tucked it in as best I could tho so it ain't too bad. LOL

93civicracer · 03-02-2008, 04:37 AM

Also if there was a problem with the spark then why the hell would it only do it at a certain area?? Wouldn't it affect it at all rpms?

92civicb18b1 · 03-02-2008, 07:11 AM

I stopped reading halfway down.

To adjust timing, mark your distributor (so you know where stock is) and just turn it to advance or retard timing.

99sidude · 03-02-2008, 12:05 PM

Get the cable fixed, and check the cam timing. Then go from there

03-02-2008, 07:11 AM	#17
92civicb18b1 The Trisexual Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: The asshole of the USA, New Jersey Age: 22 Posts: 8,874 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 2007 Civic, 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee Rep Power: 122	I stopped reading halfway down. To adjust timing, mark your distributor (so you know where stock is) and just turn it to advance or retard timing. __________________ DO NOT PM ME WITH TECH QUESTIONS!!! Current Rides 1992 Chevy S-10 Ext. Cab Previous 1992 Civic DX Hatch = 1994 B18B1 Turbo Rebuilt Garrett .60/.48 T3, log style mani and DIY downpipe, DSM 440's, kteller IC piping, JRC Intercooler, Home Depot style oil lines, HKS BOV, Crome Tuned, 253whp 1994 Civic VX Hatch, 1992 b18a1 swap 1993 Civic CX Hatch, 2000 B18b1

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