763civicls21

i recently did a swap (first time)...and was wondering if there is anything that is suppose to be done to the clutch system in order for it to work...i mean like linkage or cable....

i'm asking because when i started the car yesterday, it fired up but i can't shift into gear...and it seems like the clutch pedal is not even engaging so am i missing a line or something?

car is a 93 hatch with a 94 b18b...thanks

Dark93DX

your clutch system is hydraulic not cable, you may have air in the system, did you bleed it? your slave cylinder is on the front of the tranny and there is a hydraulic line front the master on the firewall.

763civicls21

aww...sorry i'm a new in swaps....oh i think i know what you mean now...so after bleeding it is there any other lines that i should connect?

pooptugboat

Now your transmission has a shift linkage and a support beam that cradles your shifter, both these must be connected, the linkage is held in by a little pin. You have these connected correct? And do you know how to bleed your clutch?

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763civicls21

yea i have those things hooked up already...as far as bleeding goes i think i do...i think i have to loosen the little valve looking thingy in front of the transmission and press on down the clutch pedals several times? is that correct?...thats just my guess from taking a glance at it when i was at home...

95EGCoupeVtec

your bleeding method is almost correct. u will actually pump the clutch 5 or so times, then get your trusty helper to crack open the "little valve looking thing in front of the transmission" enough for some of the fluid to come out. it will probably spit and sputter out the first few times b/c of the air. close the valve off and repeat the pumping/valve opening. i think u have to hold the pedal down WHILE your helper opens the valve. i'm not exactly sure on that b/c its been a while since i changed a clutch.

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95 Civic EX Coupe:
GSR suspension
rear LCAs & tie bar
Turbonetics t3/t4B (ceramic ball bearing) Super V Trim, Stg 2 .48 A/R
Xenocron basemap on P28 @ 9.5-10psi
Greddy Type RS bov
Tial 38mm WG
GOAUTOWORKS cast mani, 3" DP, WG dump, oil lines, & Aluminum rad/fan combo.
Spearco Intercooler
450cc DSM blue tops
walbro 255
HG and ARP studs
Competition Clutch Stg5 w/4puck disk
BF Goodrich Drag Radials
Soon to have:
15" Rota Slipstreams
hondata 3bar map
tune by Darren in Baton Rouge, LA on 12psi

ejclide

yes, hold down the clutch pedal while your buddy opens the line to bleed, and leave it down until it's closed again. then just keep repeating until a good steady squirt comes out...

......yeah, I know.......

that's what she said

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"everything in a honda is glued together. You just hook up an engine lift and rip that fucker out"
-klyph

92 Civic LX 4Dr
-LS Swap
-Fidanza lightweight flywheel
-Exedy clutch
-Ebay Ram air
-Ebay Short shifter
-APC racing seats