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jdmdrew · 01-20-2010, 09:50 PM

2000 honda civic cx hatchback
obd2a/98 gsr swap
obd1 p72 chipped
obd2b to obd1 jumper harness
cut and spliced obd2a dizzy plug to work with harness.(there is 1 blue wire not connected)
iacv 3 wire to 2 wire. (from the 3 wire the orange wire is not connected)
crank position sensor on the block???? not sure if it goes connected since im obd1.

my first problem was the tps it didnt have ground so i ran a ground to it and it ran fine last thing i had to do was wire up the vtec. so what i did was connect the vtec pressure sensor to the vtec solenoid.. which supposedly is supposed to be a trick here is a link
http://www.phearable.net/tech/wiring/vtpsbypass.gif.
well after that i didnt try my car cause it was late already. and this morning i got up for work warmed up my car and as soon as i left my first gear just stalled and now my car wont go past 3000rpm. so i disconnected the vtec and tried resetting the battery and still does same shit. i even tried my stock y7 ecu and it did the same. i dont know wat to do please help me

reikoshea · 01-20-2010, 10:22 PM

id pull codes off the ECU. if you're dieing at 3k, you almost definitely have a check engine light.

jdmdrew · 01-20-2010, 10:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by reikoshea

id pull codes off the ECU. if you're dieing at 3k, you almost definitely have a check engine light.

how do i check the cel's if im running a obd1 ecu with jumper to the obd2b

reikoshea · 01-20-2010, 10:56 PM

id assumed you also had a obd2 p72 that came with the engine. you'd have to plug that in, pull the codes, and then replace the harness into the obd1 ecu.

jdmdrew · 01-21-2010, 12:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by reikoshea

id assumed you also had a obd2 p72 that came with the engine. you'd have to plug that in, pull the codes, and then replace the harness into the obd1 ecu.

well i did that with my stock y7 and the codes were crank position sensor/secondary o2 sensor and intake air temp sensor. i did fix the IAT and the o2 sensor well obd1 dont use it and the crank sensor i dont need it as well

reikoshea · 01-21-2010, 12:15 AM

i cant be sure, but i thought the crank position sensor was directly related to the function of the distributor.

jdmdrew · 01-21-2010, 02:56 PM

ya thats what i thought to and the crank ps is bolted to the block next to the timing belt pulley below. damn come on someone has to have done this swap before

josh_crewdson@y · 01-21-2010, 03:34 PM

crank position sensor it bolted to the oil pump. obd1 i think dont use it and jdm obd1-2 cars dont use it. if u dont have the crank position sensor hooked up when u connect ur y7 ecu itll throw a code, same with the secondary o2. hook the obd1 p72 up and pull the codes. (jump the two pin plug next to the ecu under the kick panel, turn ignition switch to on position, count the blinks of the cel on the dash. quick blinks = 10 longer blinks = 1 each code will have a pause in-between.) works for my obd1 p30 in my 99ex

EG93sir · 01-21-2010, 03:36 PM

obd1 ecu does use a crank position sensor,its inside the distributor,not on the block like obd2,next thing to check is simple but important,there should be a ground located on or around the t-stat,get a good connection there,if your still getting cps codes then you need to look for the dizzy to be wired for obd1,or solve the whole issue all together an get a obd1 dizzy(TD44U works the best on a GSR or b16)get yourself a wiring diagram per the exact ecu you will be running,and stick to that

EG93sir · 01-21-2010, 03:42 PM

I see so many times the trouble a obd2 to obd1 changeover causes,just remember patience and write down your specific changes,make your own diagrams of wire colors and what they go to,in the long run when problems arise,you have detailed info to repair your own ride.

jdmdrew · 01-21-2010, 04:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EG93sir

obd1 ecu does use a crank position sensor,its inside the distributor,not on the block like obd2,next thing to check is simple but important,there should be a ground located on or around the t-stat,get a good connection there,if your still getting cps codes then you need to look for the dizzy to be wired for obd1,or solve the whole issue all together an get a obd1 dizzy(TD44U works the best on a GSR or b16)get yourself a wiring diagram per the exact ecu you will be running,and stick to that

im going to try it out. i had the complete gsr swap i have now with the obd2a harness on my eg and it ran fine with my obd1 p72. here is the blue wire not connected

Image Moved By Admin. Click Here

EG93sir · 01-21-2010, 04:38 PM

yeah i see,on the obd1 dizzy that blue wire and a blue with yellow usually go to cps or tdc sensor and that may be the missing piece for the ecu to allow proper timing.keep us posted!

jdmdrew · 01-21-2010, 09:30 PM

do u know which pin it is on the ecu so i can run it direct.. and thanx all for the help so for im trying everything

reikoshea · 01-21-2010, 09:41 PM

attaching your image above to this post. it was WAY too big to be inline.

jdmdrew · 01-21-2010, 10:01 PM

on my obd1 to obd2b jumper there is no icm pins there emty is that supposed to be like that...cause thats how i bought it

jdmdrew · 01-21-2010, 10:43 PM

update i replaced tps and map sensor it does the same shit

01-20-2010, 09:50 PM	#1
jdmdrew Posts: 8	somebody plz help me 2000 honda civic cx hatchback obd2a/98 gsr swap obd1 p72 chipped obd2b to obd1 jumper harness cut and spliced obd2a dizzy plug to work with harness.(there is 1 blue wire not connected) iacv 3 wire to 2 wire. (from the 3 wire the orange wire is not connected) crank position sensor on the block???? not sure if it goes connected since im obd1. my first problem was the tps it didnt have ground so i ran a ground to it and it ran fine last thing i had to do was wire up the vtec. so what i did was connect the vtec pressure sensor to the vtec solenoid.. which supposedly is supposed to be a trick here is a link http://www.phearable.net/tech/wiring/vtpsbypass.gif. well after that i didnt try my car cause it was late already. and this morning i got up for work warmed up my car and as soon as i left my first gear just stalled and now my car wont go past 3000rpm. so i disconnected the vtec and tried resetting the battery and still does same shit. i even tried my stock y7 ecu and it did the same. i dont know wat to do please help me

01-21-2010, 03:36 PM	#9
EG93sir Posts: 49	obd1 ecu does use a crank position sensor,its inside the distributor,not on the block like obd2,next thing to check is simple but important,there should be a ground located on or around the t-stat,get a good connection there,if your still getting cps codes then you need to look for the dizzy to be wired for obd1,or solve the whole issue all together an get a obd1 dizzy(TD44U works the best on a GSR or b16)get yourself a wiring diagram per the exact ecu you will be running,and stick to that __________________ 2nd build-------- B18A--JE pistons-Eagle rods and crank Port&Polish,Ferrea valves hondata s300,GSR cams,RC310 injectors GSR nitrous plate,Brian Crower cams,True-Time gears,cut and shaped Type R valve cover 92 Integra-----bought 2/2/10--sold 11/28/11

01-21-2010, 09:41 PM	#14
reikoshea Posts: 12,111	attaching your image above to this post. it was WAY too big to be inline. Attached Thumbnails

01-20-2010, 10:22 PM	#2
reikoshea Posts: 12,111	id pull codes off the ECU. if you're dieing at 3k, you almost definitely have a check engine light.

01-20-2010, 10:56 PM	#4
reikoshea Posts: 12,111	id assumed you also had a obd2 p72 that came with the engine. you'd have to plug that in, pull the codes, and then replace the harness into the obd1 ecu.

01-21-2010, 12:15 AM	#6
reikoshea Posts: 12,111	i cant be sure, but i thought the crank position sensor was directly related to the function of the distributor.

01-21-2010, 02:56 PM	#7
jdmdrew Posts: 8	ya thats what i thought to and the crank ps is bolted to the block next to the timing belt pulley below. damn come on someone has to have done this swap before

01-21-2010, 03:34 PM	#8
josh_crewdson@y Posts: 425	crank position sensor it bolted to the oil pump. obd1 i think dont use it and jdm obd1-2 cars dont use it. if u dont have the crank position sensor hooked up when u connect ur y7 ecu itll throw a code, same with the secondary o2. hook the obd1 p72 up and pull the codes. (jump the two pin plug next to the ecu under the kick panel, turn ignition switch to on position, count the blinks of the cel on the dash. quick blinks = 10 longer blinks = 1 each code will have a pause in-between.) works for my obd1 p30 in my 99ex

01-21-2010, 03:42 PM	#10
EG93sir Posts: 49	I see so many times the trouble a obd2 to obd1 changeover causes,just remember patience and write down your specific changes,make your own diagrams of wire colors and what they go to,in the long run when problems arise,you have detailed info to repair your own ride.

01-21-2010, 04:38 PM	#12
EG93sir Posts: 49	yeah i see,on the obd1 dizzy that blue wire and a blue with yellow usually go to cps or tdc sensor and that may be the missing piece for the ecu to allow proper timing.keep us posted!

01-21-2010, 09:30 PM	#13
jdmdrew Posts: 8	do u know which pin it is on the ecu so i can run it direct.. and thanx all for the help so for im trying everything

01-21-2010, 10:01 PM	#15
jdmdrew Posts: 8	on my obd1 to obd2b jumper there is no icm pins there emty is that supposed to be like that...cause thats how i bought it

01-21-2010, 10:43 PM	#16
jdmdrew Posts: 8	update i replaced tps and map sensor it does the same shit

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somebody plz help me