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bunson · 09-12-2004, 11:22 AM

Hey all,

Heres the deal, I've had the car checked out by myself (not all that reliable) by changing fuel filter, injectors, and flushing fuel rail. The car still wouldn't start without pumping the gas pedal. I had a mechanic that I trust go over the fuel system and he said that it was holding pressure and the fuel pump was still good (we thought it might be the check valve in the pump but it was fine). The engine isn't throwing any codes besides and SRS code but that doesnt have anything to do with it I don't think. I was wondering if anyone here has had this problem. One thing that I haven't checked is using a GSR fuel filter instead of the civics. I know they have a different design but I didn't think that it would matter since there would still be pressure one way or the other but I'm not sure thats why I'm asking. Any help would be appreciated!

Jeff

88bluehf · 09-12-2004, 11:45 AM

try the idle screw on the throttle body...the one on the front.....not the one under the throttle arm.

MXDesa · 09-12-2004, 12:19 PM

Examine your motors compression accross all 4 cylinders, you may need a head job (Valve lapping) to get compression to a normal point for combustion to occur upon start up.

bunson2001 · 09-27-2004, 05:05 PM

Ok its been awhile but here is what I've done,

had entire fuel system checked or replaced (filter, injectors, pump) = pressure is fine

before installing engine had the head P&P'd along with the valves and seats cut
so I don't think its a compression issue

Here's the new info, it seems to start better when the engine is warm or its warm outside. For example I'll have to crank it over 4-5 times on a cool/cold morning as opposed to 2-3 on a warm afternoon.

It also jumps a little idleing after start up bouncing from around 1000 to 1500 when in nuetral...

Don't know if anyone is still reading this post but if you are and this sounds like a problem you know the solution to I'd appreciate it...

92civicb18b1 · 09-27-2004, 06:32 PM

Did you adjust the idle screw?

Please tell me you aren't trying to use the civic throttle linkage either, although I thought it was too short maybe it's too long and if it is then there is your problem.

It really doesn't seem right that you have to crank it so many times, it's almost ruling out the idle screw. How was the flywheel teeth when you did the swap? Starter maybe?

bunson2001 · 09-29-2004, 11:40 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by 92civicb18b1@Sep 27 2004, 06:32 PM
Did you adjust the idle screw?

Please tell me you aren't trying to use the civic throttle linkage either, although I thought it was too short maybe it's too long and if it is then there is your problem.

It really doesn't seem right that you have to crank it so many times, it's almost ruling out the idle screw. How was the flywheel teeth when you did the swap? Starter maybe?

Quoted post

I am using the civics throtle linkage but my friend that helped me with the swap made a bracket for it, it's pretty stable and all but how would I check if it its position is correct?

bunson2001 · 09-29-2004, 11:42 AM

oh yah,

the flywheel and starter are fine

reckedracing · 09-29-2004, 11:50 AM

alright, try this out and get back to us...

before trying to start the car turn the key to on, let the fuel pump cycle, turn the key off, turn the kay back to on, let the pump cycle again, then turn it off, then turn it on, let it cycle one more time, then try to start it without pumping the gas...

what motor are you running in what car?

perhaps iac?

92civicb18b1 · 09-29-2004, 01:12 PM

Get the correct throttle linkage too, its only like $20.

bunson2001 · 09-29-2004, 04:11 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by 92civicb18b1@Sep 29 2004, 01:12 PM
Get the correct throttle linkage too, its only like $20.

Quoted post

Hey,

I tried the three prime start and it just did the same thing (took two times cranking to get it to start even after fuel lines were primed)

Is there any way to adjust the throttle cable?

If I were to get the correct throttle cable I can use any integra cable right? (yrs?)

Its a 95 B18C1 in a 94 civic dx

thanks

One more thing, it will try to start sometimes (try turn over on its own but then will sputter and die like it wasnt getting enough gas - I think you may be right about it being the cable)

bunson2001 · 09-29-2004, 04:13 PM

i dont think its the iac because it idles high 1500-2000 on a cold engine then drops to 8-900 when engine is warm

egzivic · 09-29-2004, 04:42 PM

Check the TPS adjustment and or that you don't have the MAP and TPS plugs switched as the are the same plug. Also check the engine harness ground.

92civicb18b1 · 09-29-2004, 05:13 PM

Yea, I think you should get a 95 GSR cable, I think all th eGSR cables are the same but I'd get it as close to the year of the engine as possible.

Pissedoffsol or anyone else with a GSR swap should be able to tell you.

bunson2001 · 09-30-2004, 06:33 PM

ok so I tightened my throttle cable, but to no avail, still takes at least two trys to get the car to start. Im not so sure its the throttle cable now...

92civicb18b1 · 09-30-2004, 09:48 PM

Hmm, I can't think of anything, better start checking sensors.

Slammed90Lude · 09-30-2004, 10:01 PM

if he had MAP and TPS plugs switched he would be throwing codes all over the place and the car would not be driveable LOL

HOWEVER if you have the IAT and EACV plugs swapped or the purge control solenoid plu mixed in there (they're all two pin) you could be having this problem

I had this problem when i swapped my GSR motor and it turned out to be a result of the IAT and EACV plugs being switched, on top of not having my MAP hooked up properly

just some food for thought

bunson2001 · 09-30-2004, 10:44 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Slammed90Lude@Sep 30 2004, 10:01 PM
if he had MAP and TPS plugs switched he would be throwing codes all over the place and the car would not be driveable LOL

HOWEVER if you have the IAT and EACV plugs swapped or the purge control solenoid plu mixed in there (they're all two pin) you could be having this problem

I had this problem when i swapped my GSR motor and it turned out to be a result of the IAT and EACV plugs being switched, on top of not having my MAP hooked up properly

just some food for thought

Quoted post

Thanks I'll check that out.

bunson2001 · 10-01-2004, 06:12 PM

checked the IAT sensor... It's correct, I'm having trouble finding the EACV in my helms though (Engine Air Control Valve?) Where is it located?

bunson2001 · 10-02-2004, 01:31 PM

Ok let me know if this was pointless but I'm grasping at straws here... The engine won't start without pumping the pedal a bit when cold (will start with about 2-3 cranks when warm). When trying to start it cold without hitting the gas the cel light will come on after 6-7 times cranking but when turned off and back on again it will just do its original "starting flash" then go out. Anyway I was curious what the cel codes would be after the 6-7 cranks so I went out and got the cel to come on then checked the codes:

16 - don't think this is it because I have all new pump, injectors, filter etc... the only thing I don't have new is the pressure reg *would this code come on if it wasn't getting enough fuel?????

22 - I have no idea why this would have come on except that sometimes vtec wont kick in unless I'm going at almost full throttle *possible loose connection but has no bearing on the problem

41 - I don't think my O2 sensor would cause my car not to start would it?

*remember the cel goes off after restarting the car it doesnt stay on...

Anyway I'm just throwing this out to see if anyone has any comments, thanks

bunson2001 · 10-02-2004, 02:11 PM

just got done checking sensors looks like they are all wired correctly but I still can't find the EACV?

92civicb18b1 · 10-02-2004, 02:13 PM

O2 sensor could cause it to do that I suppose.
Timing might be off a little too, this could be your problem.
I'd get the FPR just to be safe.

bunson2001 · 10-02-2004, 02:14 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by 92civicb18b1@Oct 2 2004, 02:13 PM
O2 sensor could cause it to do that I suppose.
Timing might be off a little too, this could be your problem.
I'd get the FPR just to be safe.

Quoted post

do you think i should get an adjustable FPR to let more fuel in since I've had the thing ported and polished? I've heard that this might be the reason and Im just needing more fuel at startup...

92civicb18b1 · 10-02-2004, 02:17 PM

I'm not to familiar with them, but if they aren't much more than the stock ones, I'd say get it.

Slammed90Lude · 10-04-2004, 11:48 PM

polishing the intake runners can lead to fuel puddling particularly at low RPM's were the velocity of the air isn't high enough to help the atomization of the fuel

the EACV (electronic air control valve) or intake air control valve (i've seen it called both by helms) is located on the back of the intake manifold beneath the plenum- its on the end closest to the TB

mrnice1058 · 10-16-2004, 01:25 AM

so what was the end results because i am having the same problem? with my 97 civic with a b16 in it let me know if there is any new info

09-12-2004, 11:45 AM	#2
88bluehf Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Denton,TX Posts: 421 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 16	try the idle screw on the throttle body...the one on the front.....not the one under the throttle arm. __________________ New Ride 1998 Black DX Hatch build it....break it....build it....break it...it's a vicious cycle SOLD: 1988 Honda CR-X Hf Performance: 1998 D16Y8, 1988 Si Tranny, D16a6 injectors,PM6, 88 accord clutch disc, 91 and up Flywheel and Pressure Plate, Comp Cams 260 Street and Strip CAM, RPM Switch for VTEC(saving up for Hondata ECU) DC Sports 4-1 header, 2.25 Exhaust, High flow Cat, Cold Air intake, b18c5 throttle body Floss: JDM Power Window Conversion, Arm rest, EDM door pockets, 91 si gauges, 91 Si taillights, full Si interior swap,and 96 gsr wheels w/kumho ecsta 711's, and projectors. Suspension: Koni Sports, Eibach Pro's, Rear Sway Brakes: 1" Master cylinder, ITR calipers and brackets, 90-91 ex knuckles, redrilled Prelude VTEC rotors up front and 98gsr disc in the rear Future mods include: WW RS KIT, S2000 Suzuka blue metallic paint, Power folding mirrors, obd1 hondata, BOOST!!!

09-12-2004, 12:19 PM	#3
MXDesa Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Queens, New York Posts: 927 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 25	Examine your motors compression accross all 4 cylinders, you may need a head job (Valve lapping) to get compression to a normal point for combustion to occur upon start up. __________________ 2003 EP3 Civic SI - Pretty Much Stock (for now) 1990 Eagle Talon TSI Turbo AWD 2005 Kawasaki ZX-6R - 10.58 ET at 137 MPH

09-27-2004, 06:32 PM	#5
92civicb18b1 The Trisexual Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: The asshole of the USA, New Jersey Age: 22 Posts: 8,874 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 2007 Civic, 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee Rep Power: 122	Did you adjust the idle screw? Please tell me you aren't trying to use the civic throttle linkage either, although I thought it was too short maybe it's too long and if it is then there is your problem. It really doesn't seem right that you have to crank it so many times, it's almost ruling out the idle screw. How was the flywheel teeth when you did the swap? Starter maybe? __________________ DO NOT PM ME WITH TECH QUESTIONS!!! Current Rides 1992 Chevy S-10 Ext. Cab Previous 1992 Civic DX Hatch = 1994 B18B1 Turbo Rebuilt Garrett .60/.48 T3, log style mani and DIY downpipe, DSM 440's, kteller IC piping, JRC Intercooler, Home Depot style oil lines, HKS BOV, Crome Tuned, 253whp 1994 Civic VX Hatch, 1992 b18a1 swap 1993 Civic CX Hatch, 2000 B18b1

09-29-2004, 11:50 AM	#8
reckedracing TTIWWOP Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: 845 Area, NY Age: 29 Posts: 15,381 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 90 z6-t hatch, 94 Bagged S10, 91 Lifted Mazda Rep Power: 411	alright, try this out and get back to us... before trying to start the car turn the key to on, let the fuel pump cycle, turn the key off, turn the kay back to on, let the pump cycle again, then turn it off, then turn it on, let it cycle one more time, then try to start it without pumping the gas... what motor are you running in what car? perhaps iac? __________________ I'll blow a hole in your face then go inside and sleep like a baby.

09-29-2004, 01:12 PM	#9
92civicb18b1 The Trisexual Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: The asshole of the USA, New Jersey Age: 22 Posts: 8,874 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 2007 Civic, 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee Rep Power: 122	Get the correct throttle linkage too, its only like $20. __________________ DO NOT PM ME WITH TECH QUESTIONS!!! Current Rides 1992 Chevy S-10 Ext. Cab Previous 1992 Civic DX Hatch = 1994 B18B1 Turbo Rebuilt Garrett .60/.48 T3, log style mani and DIY downpipe, DSM 440's, kteller IC piping, JRC Intercooler, Home Depot style oil lines, HKS BOV, Crome Tuned, 253whp 1994 Civic VX Hatch, 1992 b18a1 swap 1993 Civic CX Hatch, 2000 B18b1


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09-12-2004, 11:22 AM	#1
bunson Junior Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Posts: 2 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 0	Hey all, Heres the deal, I've had the car checked out by myself (not all that reliable) by changing fuel filter, injectors, and flushing fuel rail. The car still wouldn't start without pumping the gas pedal. I had a mechanic that I trust go over the fuel system and he said that it was holding pressure and the fuel pump was still good (we thought it might be the check valve in the pump but it was fine). The engine isn't throwing any codes besides and SRS code but that doesnt have anything to do with it I don't think. I was wondering if anyone here has had this problem. One thing that I haven't checked is using a GSR fuel filter instead of the civics. I know they have a different design but I didn't think that it would matter since there would still be pressure one way or the other but I'm not sure thats why I'm asking. Any help would be appreciated! Jeff

09-27-2004, 05:05 PM	#4
bunson2001 Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Posts: 82 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 11	Ok its been awhile but here is what I've done, had entire fuel system checked or replaced (filter, injectors, pump) = pressure is fine before installing engine had the head P&P'd along with the valves and seats cut so I don't think its a compression issue Here's the new info, it seems to start better when the engine is warm or its warm outside. For example I'll have to crank it over 4-5 times on a cool/cold morning as opposed to 2-3 on a warm afternoon. It also jumps a little idleing after start up bouncing from around 1000 to 1500 when in nuetral... Don't know if anyone is still reading this post but if you are and this sounds like a problem you know the solution to I'd appreciate it...

09-29-2004, 11:42 AM	#7
bunson2001 Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Posts: 82 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 11	oh yah, the flywheel and starter are fine

09-29-2004, 04:13 PM	#11
bunson2001 Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Posts: 82 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 11	i dont think its the iac because it idles high 1500-2000 on a cold engine then drops to 8-900 when engine is warm

09-29-2004, 04:42 PM	#12
egzivic Junior Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Posts: 4 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 0	Check the TPS adjustment and or that you don't have the MAP and TPS plugs switched as the are the same plug. Also check the engine harness ground.

09-29-2004, 05:13 PM	#13
92civicb18b1 The Trisexual Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: The asshole of the USA, New Jersey Age: 22 Posts: 8,874 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 2007 Civic, 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee Rep Power: 122	Yea, I think you should get a 95 GSR cable, I think all th eGSR cables are the same but I'd get it as close to the year of the engine as possible. Pissedoffsol or anyone else with a GSR swap should be able to tell you. __________________ DO NOT PM ME WITH TECH QUESTIONS!!! Current Rides 1992 Chevy S-10 Ext. Cab Previous 1992 Civic DX Hatch = 1994 B18B1 Turbo Rebuilt Garrett .60/.48 T3, log style mani and DIY downpipe, DSM 440's, kteller IC piping, JRC Intercooler, Home Depot style oil lines, HKS BOV, Crome Tuned, 253whp 1994 Civic VX Hatch, 1992 b18a1 swap 1993 Civic CX Hatch, 2000 B18b1

09-30-2004, 06:33 PM	#14
bunson2001 Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Posts: 82 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 11	ok so I tightened my throttle cable, but to no avail, still takes at least two trys to get the car to start. Im not so sure its the throttle cable now...

09-30-2004, 09:48 PM	#15
92civicb18b1 The Trisexual Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: The asshole of the USA, New Jersey Age: 22 Posts: 8,874 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 2007 Civic, 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee Rep Power: 122	Hmm, I can't think of anything, better start checking sensors. __________________ DO NOT PM ME WITH TECH QUESTIONS!!! Current Rides 1992 Chevy S-10 Ext. Cab Previous 1992 Civic DX Hatch = 1994 B18B1 Turbo Rebuilt Garrett .60/.48 T3, log style mani and DIY downpipe, DSM 440's, kteller IC piping, JRC Intercooler, Home Depot style oil lines, HKS BOV, Crome Tuned, 253whp 1994 Civic VX Hatch, 1992 b18a1 swap 1993 Civic CX Hatch, 2000 B18b1

09-30-2004, 10:01 PM	#16
Slammed90Lude Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: milford, PA Age: 24 Posts: 3,748 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 51	if he had MAP and TPS plugs switched he would be throwing codes all over the place and the car would not be driveable LOL HOWEVER if you have the IAT and EACV plugs swapped or the purge control solenoid plu mixed in there (they're all two pin) you could be having this problem I had this problem when i swapped my GSR motor and it turned out to be a result of the IAT and EACV plugs being switched, on top of not having my MAP hooked up properly just some food for thought

10-01-2004, 06:12 PM	#18
bunson2001 Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Posts: 82 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 11	checked the IAT sensor... It's correct, I'm having trouble finding the EACV in my helms though (Engine Air Control Valve?) Where is it located?

10-02-2004, 01:31 PM	#19
bunson2001 Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Posts: 82 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 11	Ok let me know if this was pointless but I'm grasping at straws here... The engine won't start without pumping the pedal a bit when cold (will start with about 2-3 cranks when warm). When trying to start it cold without hitting the gas the cel light will come on after 6-7 times cranking but when turned off and back on again it will just do its original "starting flash" then go out. Anyway I was curious what the cel codes would be after the 6-7 cranks so I went out and got the cel to come on then checked the codes: 16 - don't think this is it because I have all new pump, injectors, filter etc... the only thing I don't have new is the pressure reg would this code come on if it wasn't getting enough fuel????? 22 - I have no idea why this would have come on except that sometimes vtec wont kick in unless I'm going at almost full throttle possible loose connection but has no bearing on the problem 41 - I don't think my O2 sensor would cause my car not to start would it? *remember the cel goes off after restarting the car it doesnt stay on... Anyway I'm just throwing this out to see if anyone has any comments, thanks

10-02-2004, 02:11 PM	#20
bunson2001 Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Posts: 82 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 11	just got done checking sensors looks like they are all wired correctly but I still can't find the EACV?

10-02-2004, 02:13 PM	#21
92civicb18b1 The Trisexual Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: The asshole of the USA, New Jersey Age: 22 Posts: 8,874 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 2007 Civic, 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee Rep Power: 122	O2 sensor could cause it to do that I suppose. Timing might be off a little too, this could be your problem. I'd get the FPR just to be safe. __________________ DO NOT PM ME WITH TECH QUESTIONS!!! Current Rides 1992 Chevy S-10 Ext. Cab Previous 1992 Civic DX Hatch = 1994 B18B1 Turbo Rebuilt Garrett .60/.48 T3, log style mani and DIY downpipe, DSM 440's, kteller IC piping, JRC Intercooler, Home Depot style oil lines, HKS BOV, Crome Tuned, 253whp 1994 Civic VX Hatch, 1992 b18a1 swap 1993 Civic CX Hatch, 2000 B18b1

10-02-2004, 02:17 PM	#23
92civicb18b1 The Trisexual Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: The asshole of the USA, New Jersey Age: 22 Posts: 8,874 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 2007 Civic, 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee Rep Power: 122	I'm not to familiar with them, but if they aren't much more than the stock ones, I'd say get it. __________________ DO NOT PM ME WITH TECH QUESTIONS!!! Current Rides 1992 Chevy S-10 Ext. Cab Previous 1992 Civic DX Hatch = 1994 B18B1 Turbo Rebuilt Garrett .60/.48 T3, log style mani and DIY downpipe, DSM 440's, kteller IC piping, JRC Intercooler, Home Depot style oil lines, HKS BOV, Crome Tuned, 253whp 1994 Civic VX Hatch, 1992 b18a1 swap 1993 Civic CX Hatch, 2000 B18b1

10-04-2004, 11:48 PM	#24
Slammed90Lude Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: milford, PA Age: 24 Posts: 3,748 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 51	polishing the intake runners can lead to fuel puddling particularly at low RPM's were the velocity of the air isn't high enough to help the atomization of the fuel the EACV (electronic air control valve) or intake air control valve (i've seen it called both by helms) is located on the back of the intake manifold beneath the plenum- its on the end closest to the TB

10-16-2004, 01:25 AM	#25
mrnice1058 Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Pa Posts: 483 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 16	so what was the end results because i am having the same problem? with my 97 civic with a b16 in it let me know if there is any new info __________________ started but running pretty rought have any advise pm me and let me know!!

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wont start without pumping the gas pedal