makemagick

Uh, feels kinda noob to post another thread while my other one is right below it but...What are some common symptoms for an engine check light? my swap was obd jdm gsr into 97 obd2a LS, i was wondering if one has less sensors than the other? i just wanna hear some common symptoms b4 i go to the shop and check the ecu for it :/

makemagick

obd1 jdm gsr*

CAFROG

The OBD1 motor is in the OBD2 car now?

What ECU?

Did you wire in VTEC to the ECU? Knock sensor wired? IAB's wired? (LS integra has none of these)

|Chaz|

Why don't you pull the codes and see which ones its throwing...?

Matts96HB

Paperclip! NO need to go to a shop to have the codes pulled. Just jump the connector and count the flashes.

Marsh

It's an obd2 Chassis. I think it's need to be checked from the DLC. But, I haven't ever owned an obd2 car so idk? CHECK the CEL from the DLC, also findout what ecu you have.

makemagick

yes everything is wired, we checked it over couple of times, but the weird thing i noticed, it doesnt come on straight away after like 60 km/h I'd say

PS and its OBD1 comp with obd2a to obd1 jumpers

Marsh

Hope you have a good plan on how to pass Emissions

CAFROG

Well....make an opportunity out of the situation. Be ready to pull over and check the code(s) after it pops on.

Chances are....its in your wiring. Or its a bad sensor or something.

Some states are so easy. Now, California.......no way.

Marsh

Well first off the DLC is DEAD, so depending on were he lives, Passing Emissions GL. Look up under the Glove Box/possibly behind the passenger side Kick Panel for a 2 pin connector. Jump with a paper clip. Count the Flashes. Long Flash=10 Short Flash=1. It spits out codes in 3's. GOOGLE IT!

If this is even possible on obd2 cars?

makemagick

Lol luckely b4 i bought the shell the guy did the emissions and im in t.o canada ill try the pin trick i guess hopefully it works with obd2 thanks

|Chaz|

I'm pretty sure it does but let us know if it does.

makemagick

How come you said that though? :/ i dont see nothing wrong with a gsr swap, or is it becuz its jdm?

PS. Didnt jump it yet due to the light not coming on, well i didnt drive it much today but yeah :/ ill keep you guys posted though

E_SolSi

nothing wrong with doing a GSR Swap

simply put, the issue is that its an OBD-1 engine in an OBD-2 car running on an OBD-1 ECU

if you have to go through emissions OBD-2 cars generally just get plugged in to a scanner... the scanner can not speak with an OBD-1 ECU... so you will generally fail instantly
and if you try to run an OBD-1 engine off an OBD-2 ECU without adding all of the OBD-2 sensors you will throw codes all over the place, and again fail instantly

(the scanner also can not speak with JDM ECUs)



potentially more issues involved depending on where you live

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makemagick

Umm so the codes were 20 (Electronic Load detector, which i heard happens to alot of swaps) and 23 (Knock Sensor) because supposedly obd2a ls models dont have the knock sensor? and obd1 motor does.

Even if I chip it? I've been told if i chip most likely the engine codes will dissapear

makemagick

^ err the engine light will dissapear, which will fix the codes?

CAFROG

No LS has a knock sensor. Hopefully you have the sensor attached to the motor and the electrical plug. Its below the intake manifold near the oil filter. It has a line to the ECU and a ground that I attached to the harness ground by thermo (when I did a B-series VTEC swap). Your jumper harness (if it had pigtail lines for VTEC) should have a line ready for the knock sensor. It's a single wire. Or, you may need to wire it directly and would need a donor metal pin with a pigtail to make it work. Knock sensor will come on after a while and/or when you get on it. ECU will reset when you turn it off and the cycle starts over.

Check to make sure all grounds are sufficient and/or tight.

__________________
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My Old B16 Swap (Spring '09) w/CTR cams/springs.
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E_SolSi

sure you can chip your OBD-1 ECU and get the engine running correctly... but it still will not help you pass emissions if they plug your car in for the scanner test

if its just a sniffer test then those are easy (E vs. Emissions)

but for the plug in test, the scanner can not talk to an OBD-1 ECU (the scanner also can not talk to a JDM ECU )... and in most states if your ECU will not talk to the scanner, they fail you
(some will put you on the sniffer, but its not common)

and if you have to go on the scanner, you cant try just hooking up an OBD-2 ECU to get through emissions, because unless you put all of the OBD-2 sensors on the OBD-1 engine it will throw codes and you will fail


this all depends on your location and how they run their emissions testing (if they have it where you are)

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Marsh

Look at this Pinout, then check out your Chassis Harness and your Jumper.
Your Knock Sensor Locations are Circled Red.

That obd2a would be the same location on an obd2a LS. If it's blank on your Chassis Harness, then it would be simple to wire it into C3 on your obd1 connector side.

Marsh

Electronic Load Detector, would have to be MAP Sensor issues. The Map Sensor is what measures the engines LOAD.
I also agree w/ E solsi, Ultimately your SCREWED, when it comes to Emissions next year(KeeP ThaT in MinD) You really need an obd2 ecu. The Tech may work with you on the VIN issue (the Emissions Equipment, refrences the VIN from the ECU-that is suppose to match the VIN on the Chassis). BUT, if you know a cool Technician he can change that.

Dual-500

I don't understand this.

While I can relate to MAP indirectly being a measure of engine load as manifold vacuum is directly related to the overall load condition.

What I don't understand is the correlation to the electrical/electronic load sensor? That is electrical load and resides in the fuse box under the hood. It's purpose is to report load to the ECU which in turn controls the alternator to enhance fuel efficiency under specific load andn battery conditions.

What am I missing?

makemagick

can you post that pic again plz? srry missed it i guess

reikoshea

For ELD, here's some stuff to check:

1) Check the fuse box inside the car on the driver's side. Check fuse 15. (Should be a 7.5A fuse)
2) Have your alternator checked at a parts store (it's usually free).
3) Have your battery checked at a parts store (again usually free).
4) Check the electrical connector under the intake manifold on the passenger side. If it's touching, or could be touch wire sheath to bear metal, you'll get a code 20.

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/tsb/civic/x99-029e.pdf