StupidSlowEG

Im possibly trading my eg hatch for a 92 integra BUT the integra has a blown head gasket any one know how much it costs to get fixed?

Specs on EG:
D15 non vtec
cold iar intake
full exhaust
headers

Specs on Integra:
B20
exhaust
autometer shift light
short shifter


my question is, is it worth it?

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StupidSlowEG

Enigine Pics

integra






civic eg

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Uncle Buck

its a good deal yes and no.... i mean its really hard to tell how bad that head gasket really is..... i mean you can make the trade and buy the new headgasket.... swap it out.... drain your oil and slap new stuff in.... it SHOULD be alright... but who knows how long that previous owner really drove on that bad head gasket.... B20 blocks have thin walls so id hate to see it be damaged....

also what B20 is it??? B20b is junk so make sure its like a B20y or B20z

StupidSlowEG

Yea, its a b20b

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get_nick

bad trade, for a couple reasons.

1)never trade for something that needs repairs. ever
2)eg's are in higher demand than that generation tegs.
3)the teg probably isn't that much faster than the eg

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StupidSlowEG

The teg should be faster though my EG doesnt have v-tec, my eg is sohc

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get_nick

ok, put it this way.

if he was to sell his teg on craigslist, how much could he get for it? $2000 at most?

if you sell yours, $3500 maybe? you do the math. not that hard.

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Uncle Buck

there is alot more then just Vtec and SOHC..... now what I would do... id order a D15b ($400 shipped from passwordjdm) then slap on DX manifold with adapter, put on a 14b with proper fuel managment and you will have a scootin lil car....

SOHC are great for boost, the heads flow alot better then the DOHC..... also that B20b is weak sause..... they cant hold up very good and you cant wrap them out for high RPM pulls....

get_nick is right as well tho..... the EG is worth more $$$$ in the long run, also if you do a motor swap into your EG, you dont have to go thru all the pain of swapping to OBD1....

i mean i personally own a 90 GS teg.... ya its a fun lil car with a JDM B16 (Vtec yo!) and it doesnt stand a chance against my buddies boosted EG hatch

StupidSlowEG

Yea I guess ill just put money into the EG and stick with what i got

THEN in a couple years get a s2000 =] or RSX maybe both hahahahah

non-vtec y0! haha

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BigNate

dont trade.. here are my GOOD reasons why not to:

1. B20s suck, unless there on B16 trannys
2. Das are not worth very much
3. Vtec is overrated
4. eg hatches are dope if done right
5. it blew a headgasket possibly because he was beating the hell out of it and it over heated
6. the head is probably warped
7. B20 would not be that much faster than your single cam.

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-Nate

i drive HoNdUhS

BigNate

not so much. single cams are as good for boost yes, main reason being there cyl walls are fairly thick. and if you blow one up, fuck it, go get a new one for 50 bucks..

but the heads flow no better than a B.. B20s suck for boost, the same reason H22's do. the walls are too thin b/c of the bore. the walls crack way easy.. but single cam heads flow NO better than B heads. just had to point that out..

i know someone who just pulled 296WHP from a 100% STOCK ls on 14.7 psi from a T3..

if i were you, take that hatch, ls swap it, and boost the shit out of it. you will love it..

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-Nate

i drive HoNdUhS

StupidSlowEG

I didnt trade keepin the hatch when i get money, gonna buy a d16 sohc vtec throw that in the hatch save up for boost

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eg6sir

just do a head swap .. it'll be cheaper

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BigNate

ah if i were you, i wouldnt even waste my money for a "sohc vtec". single cams lack power with or without vtec. and me personally, thing vtec in a single cam is VERY pointless. compression test your motor, if its good, just boost that.. for the money you will spend for a z6 or y8 longlbock, it wouldnt be worth it.

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-Nate

i drive HoNdUhS

Uncle Buck

id order a D15b and boost it....

throw a 14b dsm turbo... find a vx or hf exhaust manifold with adapter plate, custom made tubular...

ntercooler: from cheap, used to spendy your choice...

piping:
2" spools quicker and the shorter the piping the better

blow off valve:
megan racing offers a nice adjustable cheaper on
1g dsm bov work well espically when crushed:Many people have heard about crushing a DSM blowoff valve. For those that haven't, the purpose is to keep it from bleeding off boost at high boost levels. DSM blowoff valves that you source from a high mileage vehicle may also be "weak" from use, opening at a much lower pressure level than you would prefer. To crush one of these BOV's you use a vice. Yes, really. You actually crush it. Place a piece of wood in front of each jaw of the vice so that you do not damage the BOV, and continue crushing the BOV until the vacuum nipple coming off the top gently touches the ring below it.

downpipe:
custom make it with summit racing u bends. flanges are cheap

fuel management:
option 1: blox 12:1 fmu, walbro 255 fuel pump
option 2: blox 12:1 fmu, walbro 255 fuel pump, 330 cc injectors, adjustable fuel pressure regulator
option 3: walbro 255 fuel pump, vafc, 440cc injectors
option 4: stand alone fuel management (aem, chipped ecu, hondata, etc) walbro 255 fuel pump, injectors sized accordinally

BigNate

not trying to start any thing, but FROM experence:

option 1: would blow your motor
option 2: same thing, maybe last a couple days longer, if that
option 3: depends, still not as safe
option 4: best way to go. that way you will have a reliable DD-able turbo civic.

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-Nate

i drive HoNdUhS