Recent content by dirt

You need the seal in the diff to be from the year that the shaft is from. I did a hydro swap into my DA and at 3am realized I couldn't get my intermediate shaft to seat all the way. It's only a few dollars from honda.

IF you have no resistor box inline then you take all 5 wires and connect them. Otherwise you will have no power to your injectors. I know it sounds weird but that's the way it is done.

Sorry I don't mean to sound like a dick, but you're crazy! You actually stripped out the da harness? Not necessary and way too much work. If your crx is a hf or si then you really don't need to do too much at all in the way of wiring. If your donor car is 90-91 it's the same odb, and you can...

Ah, as long as it doesn't understeer I would say!

I've always been told to stray away from k&n. Sure, it lets in more air but with that air comes more particles of crap tearing your engine up over time. More power yes but at what cost. Isolation would be the key!

ah, the jumper harness will have the wires for the o2. If it's obd1 it will have 4-wires for the o2. To me it sounds like somebody swapped that header into a car and kept it obd0. You'll need a different o2 to run obd1. Obd1 only has 1 o2 sensor and obd2 has two I believe, but they wouldn't...

Why not throw a camper shell on it also and call your self rodimus-prime! But hey, good luck and more power to you if you're able to work this out!

are you keeping it obd-0 or are you going to 1 or 2? Once you know what you're going to do then you can find tons of write ups on this subject. None of it is actually hard it's just money!

supposed to be 41-48 psi on those. But if you have 40 I would think that would be a gauge calibration thing. There are tests in the helms for this. Electrical/vacuum/mechanical! Everything I have read points to the regulator in some sort of fashion. (won't run while warming up) That's where...

first thing I would do is pull the 7.5A fuse in the box on your right strut mount for i think it's ten - thirty seconds then replace. Then crank it over. Then recheck for codes. It might take a couple of seconds for it to re-register them in the comp. If you don't have it pm me and I'll give...

I know this is an old post, but when I was searching through google for a depin tool this thread came up and I started going through everything I had on hand. I found a small finishing nail does the trick perfectly. The two reasons I post this are: one of the first google threads and for the...

The clutch can only go on one way. The side with the springs will not fit against the flywheel. For your transmission to mate to the block, the clutch has to be aligned for the input shaft. The only thing that I could think it could be is your linkage, but even that doesn't make sense...

cool, yeah if everything is in spec you shouldn't have any consumption. Well, virtually any. Good luck man.

Yeah, in changing the alternator it's pretty hard to switch up the wires. You have a wire that goes on the terminal and the big round I think green connector. But why would your resistor box be cracked, I have never heard of that, but yeah, that could be your problem, it could be shorting...

well, there are tons of write ups on this subject. But, a few pointers; you have to cut out your front motor mount, the bseries does not utilize it and will not fit with it there. You have to pound out the frame on the driverside to make the alternator fit in, do this before you try to drop...