Seany-izzle

Well i dont do much highway driving. Once every month or so (but could be more once i start my job), i do mostly driving in town, 30-55 mph.. so its more of point and squirt type of power im lookin for.

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dohcvtec_accord

The stock turbo is definitely sized for that. If you buy one and you do some basic mods, you should be pretty happy with how it responds.

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totalburnout

If you're at 2,000rpm's or so and you punch it - you're not going anywhere.

I'm modded and given my mods, its fair to say that the car is probably capable of high 12's with a good driver. If I slapped on a bigger turbo than I'd be a lot faster, but the lag would be even worse for daily driving.

If I'm on the highway and I punch it, it doesn't feel like it kicks right away - it takes a second but then I'm to retardedly fast speeds within seconds. I mean, taking an on ramp and taking it to 80 a quarter of the way down the on ramp and then having to hold back because you're going faster than the traffic you're merging with has its benefits. I need a tune badly though, because I have something going on with my setup thats making the car jerky for whatever reason - but then again I've gotten so deep in the car and only have an off the shelf engine management map so its not specific to my setup.

Cliff notes; you'll want to be on the gas and increasing speed if you expect to be going anyway. You can't just put your foot into the car and expect to instantly go without a downshift when you're in the low rpm's.

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2000Si

Isn't that damn near true for every small displacement engine, FI or not?

I mean... why would you WANT that, unless you never drive in the rain or snow.

I wouldn't mind 3500 rpm of lag time to have my (affordable) dream car.

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Mods: Injen SRI, DC Sports 4-1 Header, A'pexi WSII catback, Brembo blanks, Hawk Pads, S2 shifter, Blox IM, coilovers.

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Last edited by 2000Si; Yesterday at 04:51 AM.

Seany-izzle

I'd want boost by 3k, 3.5 max. Are the ap stg 2 tunes good for your basic bolt on's?

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totalburnout

If thats fine with you, then the car is fine for you.

I'm untuned and don't start seeing fun until 3500rpms.

The car is plenty of car to get you in trouble. Celerity is dellusional in his comparison of the car. On paper the WRX beats every car he listed in virtually all categories, he just for some reason has a broken butt-o-meter that stuck on a NA supra that is no where near as capable as the WRX.

You can compare the car to a Civic with a turbo kit. It has all wheel drive and its heavier so it makes the car feel planted and stout, but thats the main difference in feel between the cars.

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Cashizslick

The GTO owner was still mad at breakfast after our group got off the highway . . .

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Cashizslick

I dont think any of these wreck the WRX in EVERY aspect . . . they are also in a different class. These cars are rwd sport's cars when a WRX is more of a sport compact.

Here is why:

1.) None comfortably seat 5 people
2.) None are as reliable as a WRX
3.) For a newb driver, the WRX is the safer choice b/c of its AWD.

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totalburnout

I'm going to venture a guess it wasn't the 6.0l LS2 version.

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Cashizslick

No,

Just the 5.7L with basic boltons. Said he ran 13 flat in the quarter, yet I forgot to ask his MPH or if he had slicks.

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TWAN

Also, my ex gf had an o2...

there is a problem with the fuel supply lines into the fuel rail. in cold weather they contract ever so slightly, and cause a small leak resulting in an overpowering smell of raw fuel both outside the car, and inside the cabin as well. subaru will fight you tooth and nail on fixing this problem. there is a service bulletin about it. but they will try to make you pay for it. the cost of the new parts is only a few dollars. however the labor involved is quite pricy $600.00+ being that it involves them removing the entire intake manifold. this only applies to the 2002 year model, and is not found to be a problem on every car. its a crap-shoot at best.

just some food for thought

Heres the link:
Raw Fuel Smell Log [Archive] - NASIOC

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totalburnout

Labor shouldn't be $600+. At a Subaru specific performance shop where they charge $95/hr they quoted me $385 for the labor. I've been down into that system of the car and its a pain in the ass, but this is a rare problem. Perrin fuel rails are fairly cheap and can be had used for $200. To get the intake manifold off you have to take virtually everything out of the engine bay, from draining the coolant to taking off the intake manifold, disconnecting fuel lines, tons of vaccum lines and the intercooler. Definately the hardest install I did on the car. Not to mention the GBOD thats subaru term for "Green brackets of death", they keep you from getting to some of the hard fuel lines, the injectors, and easily taking the TGVs and intake manifold off.

Good call though. This should be readily apparent if there's a problem, but its a fairly rare problem.

Clutch chatter and the transmission seem to be the biggest complaints in the early years.

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dohcvtec_accord

I had that problem, but I was still under warranty when I discovered it, so I got it fixed for free. So far, it doesn't appear to be a safety issue - it just sucks when it's really cold, and you start your car and have to inhale fuel fumes for a couple of minutes.

I'm not sure, but different dealers may fix that for free, as it's a TSB - that nebulous area between a pay-for-it-yourself fix and a recall.

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2000Si

Hey Sellout, any new pics of the Subaru?

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XBL Gamertag 2: jams 8201 for achievements.

Mods: Injen SRI, DC Sports 4-1 Header, A'pexi WSII catback, Brembo blanks, Hawk Pads, S2 shifter, Blox IM, coilovers.

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Last edited by 2000Si; Yesterday at 04:51 AM.

Seany-izzle

how is the footroom down by the pedals left to right... width wise. I have size 13 shoes, i need my leg room and feet room. I test drove a forester when my mom was looking for a vehicle, the amount of room by my feet was really tight. Im guessing due to the flatness, tranny, and driveshaft.

compare it to a civic if you can.

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dohcvtec_accord

Nah, I'm not real big on taking pictures. Truthfully though, it probably looks exactly the same as the last time I posted pictures, which was probably 2 years ago. I keep my cosmetic mods to a minimum. It still looks almost completely stock on the exterior, and that goes for the twin tips on my Vishnu exhaust as well. OK....I just got some cleared-out headlights from a friend who totalled her wagon, so no more amber in my headlights. But yeah...98% of my mods are functional.

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dohcvtec_accord

Never driven a Civic, so I can't help you there. However, I do wear a size 13 shoe, and my problems are minimal. Every once in awhile (like, once a month), I'll nick the side of the brake while clutching. That's it. I'm 6'3", and my seat isn't even all the way at the back.

It's got a very comfortable cockpit for a sport compact.

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totalburnout

Welp mine just failed inspection hardcore, here in the urban area where college is - back home there were no problems.

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dohcvtec_accord

Doh. What are your mods again?

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totalburnout

Port, polished, coated, and wrapped catless Perrin 3inch downpipe (the inspector said I don't know what that around the exhaust pipe is but it needs to come off. They put it as "exhaust patches" fucking thermotec wrap. stfu.)
Custom 3in midpipe to MRT racing muffler.
Maddad v2 headers and uppipe
Port, polished, and coated td04 turbo
4-ply Silicone Turbo Inlet
Huge Ebay TMIC
Port and polished throttle body
Port and polished intake manifold
Hondata thickened intake manifold gasket
TGV deletes (these set the check engine light off and throw 4 trouble codes. I need Street Tuner software from Cobb or a protuner to clear the codes for me)
Go Fast Bits underdriven + lightweight crank pulley AND alternator pulley
Koyo radiator
Powerslot slotted rotors
Hawk HPS brake pads
Motul 5.1 fluid
Eibach Pro Spring Kit
17x8 Enkei RPF1 rims
Seibon Carbon fiber hood w/ big hood scoop
Cobb AccessPort Stage 2 OTS map

I have some other little stupid stuff, and I've been through so many different mods. Port, polished and coated stock headers with an enlarged aftermarket crosspipe and worked over uppipe will be going back in the car and the maddad headers will be sold. I want low end grunt even if I make lower peak numbers. Thats why I'm not on a 16g turbo right now.

If I keep the car whiteline 24mm front + rear swaybars, whiteline anti-lift kit and whiteline endlinks will be going in the car along with swift springs or a different strut/spring combo.

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