Ls/vtec?

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jdmspec5

Junior Member
Have a question of my own though, I currently also have a b18a and ctr pistons in my garage, would it be worth getting the ls rods strengthened and putting the ctr pistons in the block also? I keep hearing or reading horror stories from the crank and crank bearings not being able to handle the high rev of vtec due to lack of oil flow, what can I do to get the b18a block to handle the high rev of vtec, maybe type r oil pump, squirters, and water pump? If I do these type things, will the motor even still hold together? Looking for more torque. How high will I be able to rev on this setup? Would you recomend rods or would the ls rods hold up?

Another ques., have s1 vtec tranny and exedy ls flywheel, do i need to get a ls cluth and pressure plate, or a b16 s1 cluth and flywheel?

Yet one other ques., the oil squirters out of a type r, i know the block on the ls has no where for them, but i have heard of people using these in this setup, if so, what would have to be done?
 
The crank/bearings can handle 8000 RPM, the oil flow is fine, just get an ITR or a B20b oil pump. Shot peening the LS rods is not a bad idea. The LS rods will work fine, especially if you shot peen them. I would add some ARP rod bolts for a little extra insurance. For more information see the entry in our FAQ on the LSVTEC.

What year LS is that flywheel for? To run the S1 tranny you have to use 92+ Integra parts or parts for any B16.

The oil squirters have to be installed by a machinist, he will tap the bottom of your block (into the oil passage that feeds your main bearings) and thread the squirters in there. These are not necessary for a stable LSVTEC.
 
Again if you aren't revving past 8000 RPM it is not necessary, but it can't hurt. Look into the Z10 girdle as well.
 
How long can i look at the motor lasting, and if i bring a machinest the oil squirters, they will know what to do? Where can i get the girdles that were mentioned above?
 
http://www.z10eng.com/
If he works on Hondas he will know what to do, otherwise you will have to tell him how they are supposed to be installed.

May I make a suggestion, don't do this build yet. You need to do a lot of reading and maybe find someone that has rebuilt engines before to at least show you what is going on.
 
I have my 18 year honda mechanic building this, and he has done reading on this setup, i just like to ask ques. on what other people think. :p
 
I also have the same problem with installing oil squrters, because my B18B block seems to not have necessary internal oil lines to supply oil to them. Is there any special trick or technique to make VTEC block squirters work in my LS/VTEC?

The second question is: What should I do to balance flywheel and crank?
 
fuck the girdle.. it'll just make it run hot as shit. not necessary
 
The second question is: What should I do to balance flywheel and crank?


Take it to a machinist and have him balance them. Need to take your rods, pistons, crank, flywheel and harmonic balancer and have it done all at the same time.

Later,
Frank
 
Originally posted by pills_PMD@May 26 2003, 05:38 PM
fuck the girdle.. it'll just make it run hot as shit. not necessary

ummm.....are you thinking of a blockguard? A girdle just holds the bottom of the block straight and keeps it and the crank from flexing.
 
get a gsr block and put it on there... they have oil squirters... then get some cunningham ultra lite rods and some arais forged domed pistons.... those should up your compression... and put a type r head with full titainum valve train.... on top of that P and polish and mill your head with runnign a race header and some jun 3 cams... you should be rippin.... o ya and for your crank i would go with a type R crank.. or if you really wnat to go with the ls block port htat baby out to a 84mm (resleeve) that shoudl get you going on a reliable and fast motor.. and get that shit tuned and you can be reving up to 9 grand if you want :worthy:
 
I think your stressing too much, I used ctr piston in my ls/vtec. stock ls rods, no shotpeening no ARP bolts. I spin to 9k all the time. I drive this thing everywhere. I drove to L.A. last week from PHX. No girldles needed or block guards.
Just assemble it well, get good clearances and you will be fine.
 
Originally posted by THiroshima83@Jun 6 2003, 08:24 AM
get a gsr block and put it on there... they have oil squirters... then get some cunningham ultra lite rods and some arais forged domed pistons.... those should up your compression... and put a type r head with full titainum valve train.... on top of that P and polish and mill your head with runnign a race header and some jun 3 cams... you should be rippin.... o ya and for your crank i would go with a type R crank.. or if you really wnat to go with the ls block port htat baby out to a 84mm (resleeve) that shoudl get you going on a reliable and fast motor.. and get that shit tuned and you can be reving up to 9 grand if you want :worthy:

Yes- you are stressing too much... and too much random brand name tossing too.

If he puts on a full Type R head and uses a Type R crank- what's the point? Why not use the Type R engine? It would be easier and cost the same, if not less. The GSR block's crank and the Type R crank are the same anyway.

Why the titanium valvetrain? Retainers and valves are what everyone likes to get that are titanium, and that's only for extreme engine conditions. You don't get a "titanium valvetrain".

Port out to 84mm? Huh?

:blink: :blink: :blink:
 
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