A6/Y8 mini me noob

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yes wes lee, there isn't really shit for information about this swap. that's why we gotta take it into our own hands my man. i'm swappin to obd1, so i've already extended some sensors and whatnot, and i've started to run the wiring to convert to obd1. i need to start taking pics but i keep forgetting cause i'm so anxious to get everything together lol.

i think the only good kit is the wings west/mugen body kit. get rid of the silver/chrome mesh in the bumpers and paint it black and it looks sick. they also have a jdm style front bumper that you can use along with that kit which makes it look sooo impressive. i hate crazy body kits, that kit is super mild and super tasteful. it doesn't say rice at all, it says i don't want to be oem, but i stay away from starchy foods like rice. ya know what i'm saying? lol
 
but you aint cool unless youre rockin decals telling everyone what you dont(most time dont) have. and you are required to have a minimum of 4 fog lights. top it off with a "F"arbon fiber wing, a dual exhaust rear bumper, some cheap ass light kit, and euro tail lights.... serve with chopsticks
 
haha nice. lets stay on topic here lol...

i'm gonna start with taking pictures soon, gotta make a folder for em in my photobucket account. also, idk if i'm gonna start a new thread for it or what, we'll see, what do you think?
 
wes lee, sounds like you're gonna be pushing that d to it's limits lol. i have everything i need for the swap now. i was planning on doing it this weekend, but when i was putting my head back together, i snapped 3 of the 4 outside rocker assembly bolts, they're the smaller of the bunch. i think my buddy's torque wrench isn't dialed in the best even though it's a snap-on. he's going to be trying to find a junk yard car and is gonna pull the bolts i need. hopefully this can still be done this weekend.

dude... that sucks!!! i would have got pissed and threw something lol... yeah, they should be EASY to find and replace. not a disaster, just a pain.

i completely rebuilt my y8 head, i should've done a writeup on that, sorry guys i was just so excited. and the same thing with my msd modified cap and rotor, i'm sorry for that one too lol. when i do my write up for the mini me, it's going to be detailed and i'll even try and include links to head rebuilds and doing the modified cap and rotor, and i'll include pictures of my stuff

damn you on the MSD writeup!!! lol... where did you order it from and how much was it!? i got the itch and took my Y8 head apart a couple days ago. i think somebody mentioned it would save you a few bucks to have it pulled apart BEFORE you take it to the machine shop. i feel a bit foolish for doing this because it was a MINT head and could have bolted it right on, no worries. but because im going with a beefy bottom end i feel the need for Ti valves, springs, and retainers. im not sure what brand. ive been doing my homework on this... personally ive wanted Skunk2 since forever. i ran into a thread stating Skunk2 parts give out in really high hp engines. they said ferrea was the ticket. im not certain what to do about the cam either.

1. what cam should i run... ( im lazy and dont feel like looking around right now ) i think ive read that you should retain your stock cam for turbo setups, but since it'll be all motor i was think a crower

2. oil pump... should i rebuild the A6, should i get a Y8(will it work on an A6 block), or should i go aftermarket???

3. water pump... A6,Y8, or aftermarket

4. what valve train brand...

5. should i consider having everything shipped to somewhere like hondaperfomanceparts.com or take it and drop it off. has anyone used a place like this??? regrets or good experieces...
 
i dont plan on boosting anytime soon. i want to get another hatch and run in NASA with it. once i have my competition(OEM) car built to spec then ill consider messing with a turbo. im even considering a closed deck, sleeves, and 76mm vitaras... but $$$... overall, i just want to get my si up and running STRONG :eek:


Vitars are not worth buying custom rods to do it right. the wrist pin height is diffrent and puts the piston farther down in the cyl most people dont know this and build a engine that is like 7.5:1 CR not knowing any better.
 
Vitars are not worth buying custom rods to do it right. the wrist pin height is diffrent and puts the piston farther down in the cyl most people dont know this and build a engine that is like 7.5:1 CR not knowing any better.

thanks for the info!!! the vitara's were just a thought. since im not trying to rush this now and get it back on the road ASAP, im going to spend more time and money on it. so yeah, fuck the vitara's. when it comes time for the turbo, ill get some nice low compression slugs. but since im keeping it n/a for a while, im looking for the best high compression setup for the A6/Y8 combo.
 
yeah i'm keeping my n/a right now too. just keeping the stock head, but i completely rebuilt already. just got it back together using assembly lube. i took pictures of my head, painted valve cover, painting my fog light lenses, my manifold and throttle body setup, and my distributor with the msd cap installed and everything. idk if i should make my own thread or not, or post them right here
 
thats cool... im not gonna bitch about people posting their shit in here. yall keep showing the A6/Y8 love!!! i wish more people would get involved/interested in my thread. oh well... im not a people person anyway. if ANYONE has, has had, or has hands on with this setup... please post ANY info you feel your brother from another mother may find helpful. i would say "there is no such thing as a dumb question"... but i have been proven wrong in the past. but please... ask it anyway and if you catch a bunch of shit over it... dont be so fucking dumb :D
 
oh yeah... 2 major sources of my information(not A6/Y8 info but still...) come from these books:
How To Build Honda Horsepower by Richard Holdener... this book is basically a bunch a dyno tests ran a multiple parts to show where the power was or wasn't. 174 pages $24.95 in 05'

Honda/Acura Engine Performance - How To Modify D, B, And H Series Honda/Acura Engines For Street And Drag Racing Performance... this book covers everything from basic engine theory to a VERY DETAILED section on turbos(crazy ass turbo math and how to find the perfect turbo for your setup). this is my favorite. 179 pages $18.95 in 05'

i got these at barnes n noble. never bought or read any others so im sure there are better ones available. but these are an awesome source of info. if you have any book suggestions please list. also...

1. what cam should i run... ( im lazy and dont feel like looking around right now ) i think ive read that you should retain your stock cam for turbo setups, but since it'll be all motor i was think a crower

2. oil pump... should i rebuild the A6, should i get a Y8(will it work on an A6 block), or should i go aftermarket???

3. water pump... A6,Y8, or aftermarket

4. what valve train brand...

5. should i consider having everything shipped to somewhere like honda-perfomance.com or take it and drop it off. has anyone used a place like this??? regrets or good experieces...[/quote]
 
i don't have tons of knowledge with this, but i'm assuming if you want a full out race car, crower stage 3 cam is the way to go. honestly though, i would go with the stage 2 if it's going to be street driven most of the time.

i've heard of problems with the y8 having oiling issues, so i would just stick with a new a6 pump. i would open up the oil passages a little and clean up all of the casting slag though.

i don't think water pumps really matter because they're all the same. i haven't seen a high flow water pump for d series. i would just grab a fresh new stocker.

i've heard good and bad about skunk2. and everybody talks about titanium retainers, but really what's the point. they don't really do much. they're not stronger than steel, because they obviously wear more than steel. i would either get new steel retainers or aftermarket steel retainers of some sort. i dont know a whole lot about drive train brands, but maybe just stick with all crower since i know they're good, and i haven't heard any bad about them.

i don't know anything about hondaperformance.

hope my input helped atleast a tiny bit lol. i'll post a little bit of pictures soon. i am gonna start my own build thread though. thanks man
 
i started my swap yesterday! i didn't get a lot of pictures. there was two of us doing the swap so i was working on one thing while the other guy was working on the other. idk if i'll be able to do a write up with a bunch of pictures like i had planned, but i'll be able to let everybody know how i did it with some pictures. i'm kinda bummed about it, cause i wanted to give a detailed write up so people have as much info as possible about this swap. anyways, i'm like half way done. have everything taken apart, cleaned off the oem paper head gasket with a wire wheel, took off crank pulley and cleaned everything up underneath the cover and cleaned the covers. new water pump, tensioner, and about to throw the belt on today. got arp head studs, new head gasket, new alternator belt, all new gaskets for intake and exhaust. we took the head and intake manifold off as one piece. we're going to put the y8 stuff on as one unit also. i'm gonna be tucking the clutch cable underneath the intake manifold, i read tons of people doing that and i guess it really make the engine bay look a lot better. my buddy's giving me his adjustable fuel pressure regulator and fuel pressure gauge, so that'll be nice. i left my p28 ecu over at my buddy's so he'll be bringing that by today also. i just found out that it's chipped with hondata s100, pretty nice for $75 huh? haha. i think that's all the info i have for right now. i just woke up, but it should be done in the next couple of hours or so. i don't wanna rush anything, but i know it'll be done before dark for sure. let me know what you think. sorry again about the pictures, i let myself down too lol. thanks
 
i started my swap yesterday! i didn't get a lot of pictures. there was two of us doing the swap so i was working on one thing while the other guy was working on the other. idk if i'll be able to do a write up with a bunch of pictures like i had planned, but i'll be able to let everybody know how i did it with some pictures. i'm kinda bummed about it, cause i wanted to give a detailed write up so people have as much info as possible about this swap. anyways, i'm like half way done. have everything taken apart, cleaned off the oem paper head gasket with a wire wheel, took off crank pulley and cleaned everything up underneath the cover and cleaned the covers. new water pump, tensioner, and about to throw the belt on today. got arp head studs, new head gasket, new alternator belt, all new gaskets for intake and exhaust. we took the head and intake manifold off as one piece. we're going to put the y8 stuff on as one unit also. i'm gonna be tucking the clutch cable underneath the intake manifold, i read tons of people doing that and i guess it really make the engine bay look a lot better. my buddy's giving me his adjustable fuel pressure regulator and fuel pressure gauge, so that'll be nice. i left my p28 ecu over at my buddy's so he'll be bringing that by today also. i just found out that it's chipped with hondata s100, pretty nice for $75 huh? haha. i think that's all the info i have for right now. i just woke up, but it should be done in the next couple of hours or so. i don't wanna rush anything, but i know it'll be done before dark for sure. let me know what you think. sorry again about the pictures, i let myself down too lol. thanks

all i can say is... FUCKIN A !!! lol. too bad about the pics though... hiding the cable sounds like a good idea. lol, think i might too.

i got my first paycheck today... $600 woo hoo!!! it ain't much but its a start!!! im only making $8 hr. not too good, not too bad. i think i owe around $1,000 on my truck and then its mine... so ill be able to afford to spend more on the civic.^_^
 
oh yeah... that P28 was a steal!!! and im jealous as hell about the FPR and gauge!!! some people just have ALL the luck lol...

i feel like we're having a space race and MY rocket is still on jackstands... FUCK
 
lol. i have it all together. vtec was crackin last night it was really nice. i have a bad iacv. i've cleaned it and cleaned it and it eventually keeps doing the same thing. when i unplug it i run fine, but have a check engine light. that's a minor issue.

last night when i went to drive it, it was stuttering when i was driving. like when you're in first gear and push the gas and let off several times quickly. it was jerking like that, pretty hard too. just under like 2500 rpm though. any ideas?

maybe it's something to do with the timing again? we're confused because some people are saying to retard the adjustable cam gear by 4.5 degrees but that's not how it works. that's probably with an adjustable y8 cam gear, we have a z6 adjustable cam gear, there's a huge difference. any ideas on that? thanks a lot man
 
lol. i have it all together. vtec was crackin last night it was really nice. i have a bad iacv. i've cleaned it and cleaned it and it eventually keeps doing the same thing. when i unplug it i run fine, but have a check engine light. that's a minor issue.

last night when i went to drive it, it was stuttering when i was driving. like when you're in first gear and push the gas and let off several times quickly. it was jerking like that, pretty hard too. just under like 2500 rpm though. any ideas?

maybe it's something to do with the timing again? we're confused because some people are saying to retard the adjustable cam gear by 4.5 degrees but that's not how it works. that's probably with an adjustable y8 cam gear, we have a z6 adjustable cam gear, there's a huge difference. any ideas on that? thanks a lot man


dude... i dont know a lot, but that in my opinion sounds mos def like a timing issue. i bet 4.5 degrees was to much. i have never done any kind of tuning. my suggestion is to take your car and some tools to a dyno and tune it yourself. the dyno doesnt lie and if you know what youre doing that thing will be running tip top!!! i would replace the iacv FIRST. i doubt it but it might have something to do with it running so rough. if you cant afford the dyno i guess you could always calibrate it one degree at a time. start that bitch up and let it run a while. if it runs shitty... shut her off and adjust it 1 degree. im assuming eventually you find the sweet spot... anybody!?
 
yeah there's articles around saying what degree i need it at. basically, using a z6 adjustable cam gear on a y8 head with an a6 bottom, you should just keep the cam gear at 0 degrees, or top. we noticed that we had the timing off 1 tooth on the crank, so we advanced the cam gear 9 degrees to make up for that one tooth. and she ran beautifully! the iacv has been replaced, but still having a little bit of a problem. i'm gonna take it off tonight and soak it for a while to try and clean it. this is the only issue as of now. i'm gonna do a write up still i think because i'm pretty sure i have enough supporting pictures. i'll let you know man
 
i'm in a dilemma now because i just found out that running a virgin p28 ecu with a y8 head doesn't run to it's full potential. i guess the fuel and timing maps are all wrong. so i don't have as much power as i should and i get shitty gas mileage. and you can't just get a y8 basemap because if you try and pull the map off of a p2p ecu it comes out all wrong because it's different between obd1 and 2. so idk what i'm gonna do until i get it tuned. this is lame, i should've read into this more in depth. i'm eventually just going to find a z6 head and go turbo
 
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