OBDII 97 EK swap to B18B1 non-vtec

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I saw that you used Moog suspension components on the second go around after the failure? How are those working for you as when I go over my suspension and brakes, I plan on replacing all the moving joints (ball joints, tie rods, etc..) I'm planning on an Si front sway bar(26mm), CTR rear sway bar(22mm), lower rear brace, Koni yellow struts, oem Si springs, and possibly polyurethane bushings. It currently has Tokico illumina struts with Tokico springs and NGR front and rear strut bars, it sits way too low for my taste anymore. Going to retain the strut bars from that. For brakes, I just want drilled/slotted front discs and retain the rear drums along with stainless hoses. I think that suspension/brake setup would be perfect for me. For wheels I'm picking up a set of oem HX wheels (light and look decent).

The Moog front suspension parts are doing great. I have 0% confidence in almost any new part listed on ebay. I am a huge advocate of genuine Honda parts but I had to have a price break after the ball joint debacle.....I researched Moog and I believe the parts were made in Japan and Spain. A lot cheaper than Honda. Your swaybar upgrades sound good. The rear brace plate is a must so you don't end up tearing the rear swaybrace mount points. I couldn't believe the handling difference after the rear reinforcement plate and swaybar were installed. Tightened it right up. I tow a teardrop camper with my Civic so I needed adjustable coilovers to get my ride height dialed in with and without load. I'm extremely happy with the current setup. I read a lot about drilled and slotted rotors and stayed away because of cracking issues between holes. Brembo makes stock stainless rotors which should work great with ceramic pads and not warp from heat. I'll look for that upgrade in the future. My front wheel bearings started to go around 240,000 miles I think. I grabbed EX larger rotor knuckles from the junkyard and had new bearings pressed. Now I'm running Honda EX 10.3" rotors and semi-metallic pads instead of the hatch stock 9.5" rotors. Less fade for sure. I looked at the HX wheels but I didn't like the offset. Love the wheel though.....light and great for lowering room. I settled on a set of 2003 Si wheels I found on Craigslist. The offset puts the wheels more flush with the body panels and gives the car a cleaner look. They weigh a ton though....lol Great for highway driving. I took the teardrop and hatch on a trip to PA a couple weeks ago and had one of the camper tires blow out on me. The Civic was so stable I barely felt the trailer tire go. I'm very pleased with the setup and I was able to do the work myself. Just be detail oriented and take breaks before you get too frustrated. It's a great little car.
 
You know what's awesomely ironic? Here I am five years later, referring back to this thread for help! HAHA! I did the same swap on my hatch, except I used a UDSM OBD1 B18B1 and have hard the hardest time finding the final two mounts, the front transmission mount and drivers side, I believe, torque mount, located next to the power steering pump. To say that our cars are Frankenstein's because of this swap is putting it mildly. haha!

Whenever people ask me what I did in order to swap the engine in they always ask "why" and I let them know it's simple, because I love my car. :D
 
You know what's awesomely ironic? Here I am five years later, referring back to this thread for help! HAHA! I did the same swap on my hatch, except I used a UDSM OBD1 B18B1 and have hard the hardest time finding the final two mounts, the front transmission mount and drivers side, I believe, torque mount, located next to the power steering pump. To say that our cars are Frankenstein's because of this swap is putting it mildly. haha!

Whenever people ask me what I did in order to swap the engine in they always ask "why" and I let them know it's simple, because I love my car. :D

I did my engine/tranny swap because I didn't want to pay for a second vehicle sitting until I needed to use it to tow......12 times a year or so. Once I saw how well it came out I had no problem investing in the suspension, body and other upgrades. Now I have a go-cart commuter car I put 30,000 miles a year on. It's a blast to drive and it does all my towing. Also saves me a lot of money in taxes and insurance. I'm starting to look around for my 3rd JDM B18b to replace the current motor when the time comes. Reminds me of military jet maintenance. Keep the frame clean and replace mechanics as required to keep the car rolling down the road. Good to go as long as someone doesn't crash into me :)
 
Tranny Catastrophe!

The last week and a half has been a real challenge. Way back when I installed the rebuilt Si tranny and newest JDM B18b there was a mistake made and corrected but a latent failure was induced that finally failed hard last week. Not sure exactly why but the bolts holding the halfshaft to the engine block vibrated out and I didn't notice for 2000 miles. I bolted and torqued new bolts per spec. An additional 52,000 miles were put on the drivetrain after the issue was resolved and at that point the tranny drivers side axle bearing blew apart. It was nasty. Looked like a fragmentation grenade went off in the diff. case was destroyed as well. Another Si tranny bites the dust. Good thing is all the Si gears on the main and counter shafts are in perfect shape. I picked up a salvage yard LS tranny and installed with new axle seals. All was well again....... but the speed sensor was giving me problems. No speedo, odometer or idle kickdown. Throwing a P0500 speed sensor code. I inspected the speed sensor connector and found the center pin(12VDC power) was corroded and damaged. I picked up a used speed sensor and connector. Cleaned the pins of any corrosion using deoxit and compressed air. soldered the new connector into the engine harness and all works great again. One thing I did discover that surprised me was the speed sensor controlling the idle kick-down. I had an idle kick down issue a few months ago and cleaned the throttlebody thinking that was the issue. It seemed to go away but was still very intermittant. It was rare enough to keep the check engine light off. Now I know that issue was caused by the speed sensor corroded/bad pins. Every once in a while the speedometer needle would dodge around but then go away. I never made the connection with speed sensor and low idle kick-down though. Hope this helps someone out there. Next on the agenda is to have the Si gears put in an LS tranny. Runnin' Honda strong!
 
Si Tranny Rebuild

After searching far and wide(Southern New England area), I found a Honda connection in Ryan in RI. While purchasing a B series speed sensor from Ryan, we swapped info on mods to his EG and mods to my EK. When I mentioned I had a good set of Si gears and good LS case but no tranny guy, Ryan contacted a friend, Alan, and the rest is history. I dropped off the trashed Si tranny with bad diff and good gears and an LS tranny with a bad bearing and 5th gear but good case and diff this past Sat. Alan(Warwick,RI) went through it all and inspected the mess. I purchased all new B series manual tranny bearings and seals from Honda. Ran into an issue with the clutch housing bearings. Under the 2000 Civic Si parts listing( www.hondaautomotiveparts.com ), the bearings I missed, 91002-PS1-003 and 91101-PG1-008 are listed under SOHC. I skipped that area because I am running a JDM B18 DOHC with a B series tranny. My bad.....The D series and B series tranny MT Clutch Housing share these same bearings. Alan offered to pick up the bearings from his Honda source and that is where I am now. Looking forward to getting the new Si tranny back in the car for spring camping. I'll add another update after I get the tranny back from Alan.
 
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I'm curious to hear how you like the B16 gearing. Good luck!
 
Help please, installed a obd2a b18b1 in my 99 civic ob2b. All done except for wiring and ecu. What do I need to do? A p28 is all I have ATM. Thanks for any help
 
I'm curious to hear how you like the B16 gearing. Good luck!

I ran the Si tranny in stock form and love the way it pulls 1-4 but 5th is a gas hog on the highway. I had the LS 5th gear installed and that greatly improved my fuel economy. Just a fluke that trashed the axle bearing and diff. Can't wait to get the Si tranny back in the car again.
 
Help please, installed a obd2a b18b1 in my 99 civic ob2b. All done except for wiring and ecu. What do I need to do? A p28 is all I have ATM. Thanks for any help

To run with no check engine lights you'll need a USDM integra ECU. Since you are running a B18b1, USDM, it should be a simple plug and play for the ECU. Read over the above changes I made in IACV connector etc... to get the D series harness to work with the B18b I installed. Keep in mind my blog is written for a B18b(JDM) and not a B18b1(USDM) setup. Good luck and keep researching. Remember it's always better to research twice as long and cut the harness only once or better yet, not at all.
 
After searching far and wide(Southern New England area), I found a Honda connection in Ryan from RI. While purchasing a B series speed sensor from Ryan, we swapped info on mods to his EG and mods to my EK. When I mentioned I had a good set of Si gears and good LS case but no tranny guy, Ryan contacted a friend, Alan, and the rest is history. I dropped off the trashed Si tranny with bad diff and good gears and an LS tranny with a bad bearing and 5th gear but good case and diff this past Sat. Alan(Warwick,RI) went through it all and inspected the mess. I purchased all new B series manual tranny bearings and seals from Honda. Ran into an issue with the clutch housing bearings. Under the 2000 Civic Si parts listing( www.hondaautomotiveparts.com ), the bearings I missed, 91002-PS1-003 and 91101-PG1-008 are listed under SOHC. I skipped that area because I am running a JDM B18 DOHC with a B series tranny. My bad.....The D series and B series tranny MT Clutch Housing share these same bearings. Alan offered to pick up the bearings from his Honda source and that is where I am now. Looking forward to getting the new Si tranny back in the car for spring camping. I'll add another update after I get the tranny back from Alan.

Picked up the finished tranny Christmas Eve. Nice Christmas present. All new bearings and seals. Waiting for an opportunity to install.
 

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Fuel return line first to go

Well, it finally happened. The years of winter driving in calcium chloride on MA roads showed itself. The fuel return line under the car rusted through and now I need to have all the lines replaced. I called Rich at Wicked Auto in Fitchburgh,MA and they are going to do the work. Drop the fuel tank and inspect all parts as well as wire wheel any rust on bottom of the car, treat with acid etch and then undercoat the whole bottom. They'll replace all brake/fuel hardlines running from front to rear. I'm ordering all new parts from Honda.
 
That sucks. Might be a good time to check the gas tank straps too.
 
all you should need is

integra shifter linkage
SI driver mount and bracket
SI rear T bracket
LS radiator hoses


also have some fitment issues with the header you will have to add piping to reach the cat

you can oder swap harnesses or get in contact with mark at ONE6 motorsports in chicago IL he puts these harnesses together for a good price!!
 
That sucks. Might be a good time to check the gas tank straps too.

I ordered new lines and brackets to include tank straps and bolts from Majestic Honda. Heading up to Wicked Auto on Sat to drop off the car for line replacement and undercoat treatment.
 
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Picked up the finished tranny Christmas Eve. Nice Christmas present. All new bearings and seals. Waiting for an opportunity to install.

Installed the newly rebuilt B series S4C Si tranny this past Sat. The new tranny shifts great with no issues.
I'm curious to hear how you like the B16 gearing. Good luck!


I love it! Pulls hard with lots of torque in 1-4 and 5 is an LS gear for fuel economy so best of both worlds.
 
I had the same setup (minus the LS 5th gear) in my hatchback for a while. It was a really fun car to drive at that time. Glad to hear you like it as well :)
 
Dropped off the hatch and all new lines with all new line mounting hardware. Replaced the fuel filler pipe as well. Rich at Wicked Auto in Fitchburgh,MA is taking care of business. It was the the biggest rust prevention work that was left. The only other areas that haven't been touched are the jams, interior floor and engine bay. No rust issues there. I'll post pics of the new work before the undercoating goes on.
 
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