OBDII 97 EK swap to B18B1 non-vtec

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Almost forgot.....had to convert the OBDI ECU from auto to manual too.
 

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since when are turbo's unreliable? :)
Well, I drive 120 miles a day and 35,000 miles a year. If you can recommend a turbo setup that can reliably last as long as the all motor setup and still be used to tow my teardrop camper, I would be interested. The Jackson supercharger is an option to keep heat down but at a $5000 price tag installed. I'm pretty happy with the JDM CRV all motor P8R B20 I'm running now. Did a 3000 mile round trip to the keys and back with the camper in tow and the car did great.
 
A turbo is good for 100-150k miles in most cases before it needs a rebuild. If the supporting items are there, there's nothing unreliable about a turbo set up. most new cars are coming with turbo's to meet cafe standards.

without the after cooler, the sc is probably hotter than a turbo.
 
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Latest change: plasti-dipped my 2003 civic si rims. $15 later and it really transformed the look. I also plasti-dipped the emblems black. With all other trim also flat black, it really looks nice.​
 
Keeping you all updated: Ok, I have some serious issues. My starter showed signs of failing for a couple months. Finally quit working when hot. I replaced with the only one available.....reman from advance auto. That starter also failed to turn over a couple times. I ordered a rebuilt denso starter and will return the advance auto starter. Now for the bad news.....engine temp started drifting up on me. I swapped out the fan switch, temp sensor, and cleaned connectors. Installed mishimoto fan and shroud to match the mishimoto 2 row radiator. Monitored coolant level and it is slowly decreasing. :-/ I've seen this before on our 2004 civic and replaced the head gasket to fix. I ordered all the required parts for the B20 head gasket replacement. Guess what I'm doing this weekend?
 
check your water pump that it isn't leaking. it might be leaking or the spring is stuck on the thermostat not allowing coolant to flow properly. it's cheaper and easier to fix so i'd look there first. If you're getting coolant in the oil, you should have oil in the coolant too. check those fluids to help determine if its a HG.

and yes, the jack now makes that picture make sense!
 
I've had an incredible run of issues on my hatch. The battery went which was actually caused by my original swap starter going bad. Replaced starter with carquest reman and the battery with an Optima. New carquest starter was bad when it was hot. Returned carquest starter for denso starter.....so far good. My temp gauge is still going hot but no longer red. It was shooting up into red and then darting back to normal or about 70% area. That had to be electrical as water does not change temp that fast unless in a nuclear reactor cooling system. I found a bad ground strap on the tranny side. Replaced it and cleaned ground contacts. No more erratic temp gauge. Still gets warmer than it should though. I thought my coolant in my overflow tank was decreasing but when I shined a light in it last night it was right on the max mark. No coolant gone. No exhaust smoke. No oil in coolant. No coolant in oil. I did swap out the thermostat, fan sensor, and temp sensor with no change in engine temp issue. Water pump has 35,000 miles on it. Not likely but I do have another one if needed. After mulling it over with my brother I'm leaning toward the cat. He told of a situation where one of his friends had the same issue......plugged cat was causing engine to overheat. My last motor was throwing a ton of oil before I changed it out. Could have plugged the cat?
 
Head gasket replacement went well. There was no head or deck warpage and I used copper gasket spray on the head gasket before installation. I had a rough idle I could not figure out and it is now gone. Seems this B20 had a bad head gasket when I took delivery. It runs great now. I started having more electrical issues and after troubleshooting found I still had bad engine ground areas. One of the new ground straps I installed fell apart on one end. I measured resistance up to 31ohms between battery negative terminal and different areas of the engine. I replaced and cleaned gnd straps until I had 1.6ohms measured from battery negative terminal to all parts of the engine. Finally have stability. Can not stress the importance of good grounds.
 
Me too! I did order another ignition switch assy from Honda as I'll need to replace it eventually. I have over 400,000 miles on the electrical system and it is the last system to be overhauled.
 
Yep, purchased in 2007 with 105,000 miles on it. I average 35,000 miles a year. I have a 120 mile daily work commute plus camping trips etc...I'll have 38,000 this year. Thankful for the 2008 si seats that make all that drive time bearable :)
 
Checking in.......oil changes and lots o miles later. Civic is running like a champ. Had a camping trip to Acadia National Park in June and the Civic did another great job of pulling the teardrop. Still getting 32mpg(23mpg with camper) when I don't drive too agressive and use 93 octane.
 
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