B18C GSR build recommendations

ok i think i've decided to just build a b18c gsr engine rather than go with the type R (good choice or bad choice?) i know there are tons of stuff to do to the engine with tons of companies supplying parts. i'm lookin for an engine that produces about 200 to 250 whp and that is a daily driver. what parts should i change or leave stock. I'm almost certain i'm going to get a turbo, but either way i definitely want to build it to be able to handle a turbo. i have checked forums, blogs, faqs, and found virtually nothing the same. and i know every engine is different, but i'm just looking for a generic standard or starting point. i'm doing a full engine/tranny swap into my 94 civic. i would appreciate any ideas!!

Well before you start building you need to decide if your going to go N/A or boost.You cant build a high hp N/A engine and put a turbo on and boost high. Different parts for either or.

civicclutchh22 said:

Well before you start building you need to decide if your going to go N/A or boost.You cant build a high hp N/A engine and put a turbo on and boost high. Different parts for either or.

Click to expand...

i am almost certain i'm gonna boost it. but i definitely wanna build it to be able to handle boost. so i wanna make sure i upgrade all the parts i need to on the used engine before i go and boost it.

Huffman,

i am also building a b18c and its in the shop getting ready to be machined. if you build your bottem end that motor will hold up. gsr motors have 11:1 compression ratio, too high for a boost application. they say to run around 9:1 if you turbo that motor. aftermarket rods or sleeve the block will help the strength too.call this place for aftermarket goodies, they have everything for hondas and they're alot cheaper than going through the dealer themselves.
Hp Performance 1 800 868 7174

my build: 98 ex coupe, jdm b18c bored to 84mm, JE pistons 9:1, Eagle rods, Eagle crankshaft, Darton sleeves, Sc 61 precision turbo.

to come: way too much to name

Sorry but the GSR does not have 11:1 compression, the US engine has 10:1 and the JDM is 10.6:1. You can run a turbo just fine on the GSR without lowering the compression as long as you have a competent tuner to set up your engine management.

I am running 8 psi on my 10.6:1 cr gsr all day reliably. Totally stock internals, 50k miles.

I would just do injectors and a walbro pump. Boost it and get it tuned. SHould be able to hit the 250 300hp mark with no problem. No need to sleeve it if youre not making "killer" power. Just my .02

Good Luck

integra gsr build

im trying to build my gsr motor to push a good amount of psi but idk what internals i should use any thoughts? im trying to go big with this build and really get what i can out of this motor thanks

Mine is a simple yet pretty quick gsr
Skunk 2 stage 3 tuner series cams
skunk 2 pro series cam gears
had skunk 2 alpha power headers but upgraded to sk2 mega power headers
skunk 2 mega power rr exhaust
stage 2 clutch
skunk 2 composite fuel rail
p28 with a base map
I think mine is pretty simple it took me a while but it was worth it

As previously said you really need to make a decision as to go na or boost before you start building. True you can reliably turbo a b18 with low boost on stock internals. However i know from experience its very tempting when you run boost to rev the crap out of it and if you do eventually something will go wrong. I would strongly advise though if you run boost on stock internals to change the head gasket out for a slightly thicker one as this will lower your compression slightly without having to physically alter the engine. Have you decided what kind of turbo you may want as there are many options. Ball bearing turbos spool a bit quicker and last a lot longer than their journal bearing cousins however expect to pay over 1k for one new. You also need to decide if you want more low end torque which most likely do in a dd, then you will want a smaller turbo with a lower a/r. For your motor i would recommend a t3 style turbo (many different options both journal and ball bearing, as well as hybrid turbos such as the t04e) and a smaller a/r of around .63 or so (diameter of the housing inlet compared to the outlet expressed as a decimal) because the smaller the a/r the quicker boost pressure builds. There are hundreds of different build options for your motor and it all depends on how much cash you want to shell out to make it work. I will stress about cheap ebay parts and imitations of name brands be very careful as some will be as reliable as the more expensive parts but some will give you catastrophic failure (ive heard of ebay turbos splitting in half, cheap pistons with low silicone actually melting causing detonation and other parts to fail miserably). Dont mean to talk your head off just trying to give as much insight as possible so you dont need to blow a bunch of cash on a setup that sucks. Good luck and always do plenty of research on any part you buy aftermarket down to the nuts and bolts.

Also if you plan on porting the head an ls head would be just as good as a type r. All the type r head does is flow better stock, which if you dont plan on keeping it that way go with the cheapest.

Dead thread

Hello everyone, I am in the process of building up a b18c1 engine that will be dropped into my 1991 CRXsi. I have been reading thread after thread on how to go about this build and what things did and did not work for others. all the information can be a bit overwhelming and (as often stated) with b series engines you can start with the same engine type as a hundred people and build it a hundred different was, I comes down to what you the builder wants and how deep your pockets are.


With all of that said this is what I want to do, I want a fun reliable smooth running engine, yet a little more powerful than the stock daily driver.


I want to do a NA b18, here is my question can I run P3 or P30's with my stock GSR rods?

And if I can run those pistons on a stock block will I have to change anything in my valve train?

Replied to your pm.
short answer, no gsr rods are too narrow for b16 pistons.

and there's no such thing as p3, it's PR3.

Brad.C.Morris said:

Hello everyone, I am in the process of building up a b18c1 engine that will be dropped into my 1991 CRXsi. I have been reading thread after thread on how to go about this build and what things did and did not work for others. all the information can be a bit overwhelming and (as often stated) with b series engines you can start with the same engine type as a hundred people and build it a hundred different was, I comes down to what you the builder wants and how deep your pockets are.


With all of that said this is what I want to do, I want a fun reliable smooth running engine, yet a little more powerful than the stock daily driver.


I want to do a NA b18, here is my question can I run P3 or P30's with my stock GSR rods?

Click to expand...

Yes you can.. just buy the harnes obd2a to obd1.. n go tune your ecu..

say hi to my little gsr.. with love from malaysiaaa
:Eg4door:
:Eg9:

old thread
but welcome to the site

im trying to build my b18c motor to push a good amount of psi but idk what internals i should use any thoughts? Tranny upgrade tips as well. im trying to go big with this build and really get what i can out of this motor thanks

there are a ton of threads about this
use the search function and get a better idea of what you want to accomplish with this build
then start your own thread and people will be able to assist you with more specific particulars