JDM B20Vtec Build

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nice it will be a nice car with all these parts, and a catch can isnt needed on your n/a setup but any cheap ebay one will work fine, im about to sink 2kish in parts for the 79 swap today and all the body seals soo have new ones when all the glass is removed
 
When you take off the cam cap to replace the plug, you can take a picture of the end of that exhaust cam and (if it's OEM) I think I'll be able to tell you what it is.

Also I need to get a vented valve cover and catch can. Know anyone selling that?

Catch can? I don't think you need it but if you want one.....most guys get one fabricated for them (with the correct AN fittings). There may be a company but I can't think of one. Someone who does metal fab skills can easily make one.

A filter to vent the valve cover? Go to K&N website and they have a bunch of small filters. I measured my a valve cover nipple (not B series but K) and found a match on their site. Find one on the site and then buy it (by part #) where ever.....maybe local.
 
:rolleyes:
:facepalm:
:disgust:

ok i've let this shit show go on long enough

cross drilled rotors are for reduction of weight, period
the cars that come stock with drilled rotors also have rotors that are usually 12+ inches in diameter, that makes them weigh a ton, so to make up for this they drill the rotors to remove mass and weight, braking is not sacrificed because the added diameter makes up for the loss in surface area from the drilling
they use to also serve the function of allowing the gasses from a hot brake pad somewhere to go and keep the pad from floating on the rotor on the layer of gasses (similar to hydroplaning) but modern brake materials do not gas out like that

cross drilled replacement rotors in OEM sizes will have less braking force than solid rotors due to the reduction in surface area, contrary to popular opinion they also do not cool off any faster than solid rotors, they are however far more prone to cracking under high stress use, and in most cases will flat out say not for racing or autocross use

slotted rotors are for removing glazing from the surface of the pad (not as important with modern pad materials)
as the slots pass over the pad there is a small amount of pad surface shaved away reducing the possibility of the pad glazing under high temp from repeated hard braking. surface area is also lost with a slotted rotor


cross drilled slotted rotors in OEM sizes are a scam designed to take money from people who either do not know any better, or simply want the appearance of performance (and dont care that they are actually losing braking performance)
they are the equivalent of putting a fake intercooler in front of your radiator that gives the look of performance but in all actuality only serves to block air flow to the radiator reducing the effectiveness of your cooling system


and here is a word from TireRack.com regarding this very thing
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brakes.jsp?make=Brembo&model=Sport+Drilled+Rotors
Note: Brembo Sport drilled brake rotors are not recommended by The TireRack.com for track use or intended to be used in conjunction with race compound brake pads on the street. For severe duty brake demands see Brembo Sport slotted brake rotors.

Important Reminder: Slotted, drilled or dimpled rotors offered as OEM replacements should not be considered appropriate for high-speed track use.

While grooved, drilled and slotted rotors offer an enhanced appearance and add some resistance to the boundary layer of gasses that can build up between the pad and rotor, they are not designed to withstand the extreme temperatures that are produced on the racetrack. If they are used on the track, it is very important that the rotors be carefully inspected and should not be driven on if even minor signs of deterioration are seen. Note, too, that if any products are used on the track they are not warrantable.
 
Thanks for the info. But I've already bought them lol. I've always wanted a set and now I have them. If they crack or break or fail in some way I will never use them again.


But I have a lot of really cool parts I'm putting on my car. Its ganna be so nice in the end.
 
So are there any other markings we can use to find out if the PR3-4 is ITR or just some random b16? Or I have to open the valvetrain and also the cams???
 
So are there any other markings we can use to find out if the PR3-4 is ITR or just some random b16? Or I have to open the valvetrain and also the cams???
Got to open it up. Take cam cap off when you put new seal in and take a close up picture of the end of the cam shaft (exhaust cam near distibutor). Or look at the springs. Just need to take the valve cover off and you'll do that when you put on your cam seal (don't forget to apply Honda Bon on it when you install)
 
:rolleyes:
:facepalm:
:disgust:

ok i've let this shit show go on long enough
Thanks for cleaning up our shit show......? Or for telling us with a sledge hammer? Or maybe you didn't mean to come of like an asshole as it applies to my efforts?
 
My friend thats been helping me put my car together says I should get an aftermarket fuel rail. Is there any purpose besides looks to buy a new fuel rail? In other words does it provide any type of additional performance or help at all with tuning or anything?

I just don't want to waste my money on frivolous parts is all.
 
It would be for looks. A stock fuel rail is just fine for your set up. Your set up is optimized by a nice header, intake, exhaust and a tune. Some cam gears will net some small gains after adjustment and tuning of the ECU.....but not really necessary.....especially with stock cams.
 
Well I am going to boost it next month. And maybe beef up the valvetrain and sleeve the motor and forged rods and pistons if thats not already in there.
 
Im not being rude but I dont think you have the knowledge yet to properly turbocharge and tune a car baby steps get this one driving and tuned first
 
And I used to have a turbocharge sohc Y8 so this not my first rodeo anyways.
 
personally id not chante top or bottom end and start out on like a 5-7 psi setup and tune and modify and add on from there and raise boost, you can be over 300hp reliably on stock bottom end with a quality turbo and tune
 
Gotcha.

I know my next question is going to get some criticism's but I'ma ask anyways.

I found what seems to be a very nice well put together ebay turbo kit. even comes with bov, boost controller, and silicon couplings. However I have heard good things and bad things about them. The one I was looking at is $661 on sale atm.

Says it comes with a warranty and everything. And all the parts are brand new. Says its a direct bolt on with very minor modification. What are yalls thoughts on this?

Also I ordered the skunk2 intake manifold and 70mm throttle body and blox TPS tonight as well. Got the combo for $355
 
if youre going to turbocharge it do it right and buy name brand quality parts for a reliable efficient setup
 
big ass rotors are heavy. that's why they drill them, to save weight.

go to the track and look at race cars. none of them run that shit.
 
Well like I said I already bought them and have them so I will use them until they break. If they break I will get OEM rotors next time.

They are very very nice rotors. Craftmenship is second to none but we will see how they hold up and if they make a difference in stopping power. I will let you know once I use them
 
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