JDM B20Vtec Build

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gains are very minimal and it isnt about just removing material and esp not about making it glass smooth in there like most think , you dont need port work done and again you dont need to spend $3000 buy the parts yourself and just pay for balance and short block assembly you can even stay stock bore if cylinders look good
 
boom done , nippon makes some nice shit too .. notch block , pay guy to balance and assemble short block
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I know I can be a dick youre the fng , but glad to have you here we need more active members like you guys getting into it
 
Thanks man. And I really appreciate all the responses I get.

Are you sure those nippon parts will be fine?

Also do I still need to have the block sleeved?
 
I added it up. If I send the block to get sleeved and then buy the kit you showed me and then take it to the machine shop to have it balanced and assembled then it will only cost me $2400

If me and one of my friends assemble it then it will only cost me about $2000

$2000 is a lot better than $4500

And then I could just save up my money for later to do the headwork or just leave the head stock.

And just tune the shit out of the block since it will be built and strong.

Question is this:

I have verified that its a stock block but should I stay at 84mm or should I go to 84.5mm???
 
Again, no real reason to overbore - stock bore will make plenty of power. I'd sleeve if you want to be ultra safe - if not then I'd just leave the stock sleeves in there. My old car made 450whp and hasn't had any issues with the stock sleeves.
 
Ok. That settles it then. I'm ganna go with stock sleeves and just build the block and get a golden eagle block guard.

That will save me $1200 right there.

Besides 450whp is what I wanted to make anyways.

450 to the wheels in a little EK coupe is ganna be plenty fast for a street car.

Also.

I got really far on my car lastnight and tonight as well.

I'm really close to starting it up.

I just got to get one more o ring for my last injector. Then I can bolt on my golden eagle fuel rail, aeromotive fpr and ss fuel lines.

I gotta get a bigger coupler from autozone for my charge pipe and tb.

Then I gatta hook a couple harnesses up, and then bolt on my wastegate and bov and put oil in the car and I should be able to start it up and limp slowly to the dyno and then tune it.

This is a big project. Its been a lot of fun though and I've been learning alot.

I got some new pictures of progress. I will post them later today.

Thanks again for everyone that has contributed to my project thank you.
 
I couldn't go to a 3inch piping if I wanted to.

Theres not enough room. 2.5 inch is big as I can fit to be able to still run a/c
 
So a little update.

I bought a GSR block, we are sending it off on monday to be sleeved.

Cp pistons 605.40, Manley turbo rods 350.10, upgraded pins 115.80, acl bearing kit extra clearance 185.20, and all prices includes shipping

Those are the parts I'm buying

We are going to bore it out to 84mm and drop a b20/ls crank in it. And polish the crank and bore and hone the cylinders.

Then build it, assemble it, balance it and bolt it up.

What you guys think?
 
Heres some pictures
 

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I don't think you're going to be able to get the bumper on with that charge piping setup. Also, are you trying to pre-heat the oil before it goes into the turbocharger?
 
I have the condensor and fans, and the lines are tucked underneath the front. You can't see them in the picture.

The driver side has too wide of a piping and its making the intercooler stick out. I have a bettet U bend pipe from my old turbo kit I'm going to use in order to get it to fit correctly.


If your talking about how I have the feed line hooked up that was the only way I could get everything to fit. Trust me I tried other ways.

I do have heat wrap that I'm ganna put around the oil feed and the header to try and keep the temps down.

I have other issues right now though.

We started the car up last night. It sounds good but my moroso oil pan started leaking oil like a siv.

So yesterday I had to unbolt the downpipe and the oil pan. Tonight I'm putting Right Stuff gasket maker on it becuz the honda bond didn't work well at all.

I hate having to do things twice especially the oil pan. Brand new oil and lucas down the drain.

I was going to reuse it but there is hondabond all in the oil.

I cleaned all that out and putting right stuff on it and fresh oil tonight and I'm ganna try again.

Another issue I'm having too is tons of vacuum leaks.

I need a vacuum block.
 
lol remember when I said to get the csr running and driving then turbocharge it soo you arent smacking away at combined issues...
 
I need some help.

I mounted that sensor that goes on the intake manifold above the runners, it mounts about halfway up. But its for OBD1 and my harness is OBD2

Do you know which sensor plug I need?

I believe its the IAT sensor for air temperature I believe.

I want to wire in the OBD1 sensor but I need to make sure I buy the right one. Can someone get a picture of which 1 I need? Or link me to the part or whatever.

I've tried to figure it out myself but am not sure..

Thanks!
 
Actually I finally figured it out. I ordered the sensor plug I needed.

So I'm ganna wire that in once I get it.

Also I ordered a vacuum block too.

Both should be here next week.
 
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