itr pistons in my ls

guys the only thing i did to my motor during the rebuild is new pistons ITR

i just started the engine yesterday and when it warms up i cant seem to get it to go above 400rpm. fuel is good so is air and spark is present. and i have 150psi compression accoss all cylanders. im thinking its ignition timing but what do u guys think

thanks

and yes i had the rods done prefessionally done to fit the pistions

it sound like a vac problem double check everything
you need to provide more info
car/year/swaped motor
who did the install

car=91 hatch
motor=b18a1
Installer= Your trully

this is not my first engine rebuild
but i just cant seem to figure out this one

150 psi seems really low. those itr pistons should put you in the high 10:1's compression range... which should be over 200-225ish

yea, 150 is low. check head gasket
what kind of piston rings did you use?

well how many crank rotations are you guys cranking you egine while testing the compression. i used only 4 that is what i was taught at school

head gasket is brand new and the bolts were torqued down with a torque wrench.

i am using file to fit rings (chromemoley) they are fit perfect to the block...

but remember guys the engine has not been broken in yet so the internals may not be 100% yet.........

let me know what you guys think

new update... it seemed that my crank pully was a tooth off. i repostioned the timing belt and away i went, i just have to get the fuel right, but im on the rich side so im fine for now while breaking in

i was running 15.2 in my caged hatchback with a stock b18a1 exhaust (header back) and aem intake on street tires. so i think with those same mods on my car still im running about 14.5 on street tires and maybe 14.2 or lower on my slicks...

only a couplemonths will tell

i was taught to crank until it tops out?

i always let it top out, my stock b18a1 has 180 compression with mayhbe a 2% difference in the cylinders, 130k miles ont that one.

did you have ur head re surfaced/checked for warping- dont think this is it really because ur running 150 across the board- but on thing that came to mind slightly - i would really think it might be ur rings or head gasket- if it is not these its more deeply involved

Did you mash the gas to the floor... Thus opening the Throttle body up?

yea i forgot, if you try to do the test not a WOT it gives you a low reading. I did it like that first just cause i wanted to see what the results were. It was about 120 Closed Throttle, WOT was 180 with the maybe 2% difference.

Yo, do you get use of the tools at the school. I need to use a spring compressor if they got it.

a couple things first
What kind of spring compressor do u need (head? strut?) what are u compressing?

yes is did prop open my TB

you are supose to take out all spark plugs at the same time cause you do not want other cylinders affecting your readings, plus unless you have a battery charger to keep you battery full during the process it would be easier on the starter to take out all the plugs, so its not fighting the compression....

but anyway i have the car running now. ive put 170miles on it so far.... i had the car down at Ave P in newark (underground dragracing) last night..... i did not run the car cause im still breaking in the motor....

I have a couple more questions maybe you guys could help me out..... cause i am still a lil new to hondas
1) i have an oil leak at the bottom of my dizzy what exactly could it be. my valve cover gasket is not leaking.... i cant seem to pin point it.

2) how long and what does honda recomend for breaking in the engine. so far ive been taking it easy on the motor except for couple of 7k rev-ups.

3) what kind of oil do you use for breaking in ur engine. Im using 0w20 synthetic (mobil one)




O yea i almost forgot..... when i rechecked the Compression it registered 200 psi when i figured out that crank problem

1- cam seal
2- break it in on the dyno. beat the piss out of it from mile 1.
3- wtf are you suing that for? 5-30, like honda recommends for most its pre-K motors.

break in your motor like that guy did who was changing his clutch in his garage on his schiracco (was that posted here?)

uh, you're using synthetic during break in? no. no. no.

bad ass built motors are generally broken in on the dyno during tuning.

when u brake in a motor. u shuld beat the livin crap outa it WHEN it is warmed up. if u dont get those RPMs up there then the lip that the rings create at TDC wont be as high if ur taking it easy on brake in. if u beat it that lip goes higher and that is what u want. cuz we all know u will be redlining it and when that lip is low from your brakin process then your rings are gona come to that lip everytime u get to high RPMs and gona ware your rings faster. and do NOT just rev the motor it is sooo bad for it. that is one of the biggest NO NOs that shuldnt be done during a brake in process or ever.
Good Luck