AWD?

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Battle Pope

Battle Pope

Well-Known Member
My girlfriend's uncle has an old Toyota 4WD sitting in his driveway. Bed's rusted and it doesn't run. Complete truck with a canopy other than that. Might be anything from the carburetor to an engine replacement. Anyway, does anyone have any experience with Toyota trucks of this vintage (other than Celerity lol) and what kind of a return investment are they?
 
i do
lol

1 check the frame, anyone going to buy it is gonna look at the frame, at least if they know anything about toyotas they will... if the frame has rot to the point that there are holes in it, then its gonna break some time in the future...
if it has no holes, then hit it with a hammer, if it breaks then it was gonna get a hole, if it sounds like you hit a soda can then the frame is dumping, if it sounds like you hit solid metal, then commence with your work...

2 what year is it? if its a 3.0 liter v6, good luck
these had some sort of recall from toyota on the heads, i guess they pop head gaskets, and if they did not get the recall done then the lower end will prob be cooked... lots of knocking and such...

another note... these motors ALONE go for up to 2500 or 2700
they are kinda hard to find as well, i did a job on a toyota 4 runner and ended up finding a truck with a blown auto trans that i got for cheap, and robbed the motor...

toyota trucks are known to be good runners and dependable, but their flaw is rot and rust... most toyota owners are aware of this, but other people just looking for a truck will think twice when they see the bed all rotted to shit... and good luck tryin to find a decent bed for a reasonable price...

other than that...
the v6 motors are all about the same, some diffrences in electronics like dist and knock sensor, but you can make electronics swaps for that...

can;t think of anything else off hand
easy trucks to jack up/lift
 
really good truck and motors (stock are cheap up here 500 at most)
good wheeling truck easy to lift and many diffrent v8 will fit and bolt up with adapterplates
 
Originally posted by ScrapinSi@Feb 21 2005, 07:38 PM
22re or 22ret? 22re's are dime a dozen... if its turbo... good luck...
[post=464208]Quoted post[/post]​
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<Smack> NO! BAD HONDA OWNER!


These engines are costly as hell. Recked was right - You may be able to find a ton, but if you want rebuilt and quality (Otherwise, you're buying another high-mileage engine) then you're not getting away for less than $1000. Typically $1500 for a head and block, complete and ready. Just head, Just block.

the 22RET is the turbo motor, and is a very special casting. IT's like jewelry to a Toyota guy - And they are usually built and placed in display cases.

Recked also had good points on the rust. IF you have a lift handy, put it up and measure gaps. Then look for rust. Boxing the frame won't last for long, so it's gotta have a good frame.

Out there you may be inluck. The dirt may have formed more of a clay. If that's the case, wash it away and you're good. If it's dirt, it rubs the metal and rust aside, leaving fresh steel, rusting and rubbing. Repeat until there is nothing left.

Ditch the bed. It's cancerous and should be excised.

Lift the carpets on the interior for body seam rust checks. This is a bitch to repair on your own (Complex curves and corner bits.. and god forbid you have to create it from memory).

The engine itself is never the problem. It's usually vacuum. These motors crave proper vacuum. They dont' blow out gaskets, they don't eat seals and they don't wear on timing bits. The oil pumps are indestructible, but the water pumps (Under the main fan) are easy to diagnose. Does it shake? Even slightly ? IF so - it needs replaced. I can do it in about 45 minutes now. Oil pump bad? Timing chain need replaced ? The whole front end has to come off. The timing chain is a total bitch to perform in the bay. Remove headlights, grill, radiator, and expose the entire front of the engine to get to it.

Finally, the truck should track straight. I prefer to let the owner drive it while I follow it. Watch how the rear tracks with the front.

Follow common sense, avoid rust in frame rails, and you should be fine. No one is let down by their Toyota - not even me - Regardless of how often I'm swallowed under the hood.

*Important note* Do NOT buy 1986-1988s unless you KNOW FOR SURE what kind of motor / emissions you want to deal with. The 86 is completely different from the 87 is completely different from the 88. And they all kinda suck for engine materials used.

-> Steve
 
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