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Old 06-05-2009, 10:48 PM   #1
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Unhappy 95 lude swap head or motor

ok heres the deal , i know you guys would prefur me search for my answer rather than waste your time by starting a new thread but ive been searching for days now and i havent found the specific answers ive been looking for , heres all the info i have,


ive got a 95 prelude S with the F22a sohc non vtec motor with an auto tranny that only puts out 130 hp ,ive read and been told a lot of stuff . im on a tight budget and i dont know what to do ,all i can put in is about 1700 here are my options

a) i could get a jdm h22a motor use my tranny and get a new ecu, now im not sure if i can use my wireing harness or not , ive read that ill need to get a bigger radiator , i dont know if this is true . Ill have to rig the fuel line to work with the new engine or get a new fuel rail and and id like to get a manual tensioner for the timeing belt but i dont know where to get one. this will bring me up to 200 hp, this is what i think im going to end up doing but i dont know how much this is going to cost

b)ive heard that you can put a h23a or h22a head on my f22a sohc non vtec block,and make it into a "frankenstine" ive heard that i would end up with more than 230 hp with this setup, ive tried to research this and everyone thats asked seems to hit a wall , nobody seems to know if this can be done or give any details on what all need to be done to make this work, like would i use my ecu or need to get a h22 or h23 ecu for it and what all would i be able to use from my f22a ?

c) i could save a lot of headaches and save some money and just have my head rebuilt and put new valves in i would prefer not doing this for obvious reasons , my timeing belt fell off when i was going 90 fyi,
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Old 06-05-2009, 11:54 PM   #2
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just get the h22a and swap in there, all you will need is a new ecu and then add a few wires not need for a new radiator, and just use the stock fuel rail off your old motor, the rest will just drop in and mount right up. as far as a h22a head on a f22 yea it will work but lol no way will you get 230hp out of that, maybe 160 if your lucky.
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Old 06-10-2009, 12:43 AM   #3
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ok ive ordered the engine , will update
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Old 06-17-2009, 02:47 AM   #4
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ok, i just got the engine in today swaped out the fuel rail, perfect fit, the engine didnt come with a downpipe so i went ahead and ordered a header/downpipe for the engine from another company but the idiots sent a header for the f22 head > , when i ordered the engine i told them i was putting the h22 on an auto tranny and they sent me a p13 ecu, im not sure if this is the right one or not, does anybody know what ecu im going to need?
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Old 06-17-2009, 07:37 AM   #5
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yeah p13 will work. you will need to wire up vtec also. there are threads on all of this stuff. just look in the refrance section.
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Old 06-21-2009, 11:38 PM   #6
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i dont get a lot of time to work on the car so its slow going, so far so good, engine is in, i just have to swap some sensors over b/c they came broken on the jdm motor . the pully on the power steering pump is bent so im going to have to work on that, mine isnt compatable , the only thing i havnt figured out so far is what im going to do about the internal coil vs my external coil hook ups , i guess im just going to contine wireing it up and see if theres any other problems
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Old 06-22-2009, 12:12 PM   #7
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i just found out like 2 minutes ago that the little black box just below my intake manifold with vacuum hoses running to it is broken beyond repair. Yet another set back , does anybody know what it is ?
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Old 06-22-2009, 04:23 PM   #8
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i went down to the junkyard and they have a h23. i had them take off the vacuum box thing, i think its an intake air bypass?? but it looks a lot different, it looks like it might work but im not sure, it looks like its the same on both engines on the wiring diagram i have . Does anybody have one they can sell me or know if the one i have off the h23 will work?
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Old 06-22-2009, 04:35 PM   #9
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the one off the h23 will work just fine
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Old 06-22-2009, 04:58 PM   #10
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thanks for all your help, i took a closer look to the diagram i have and the reason it looks so different is that they gave me the wrong one. so i guess im headin back tomorrow.
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Old 07-13-2009, 08:26 PM   #11
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ok I finnaly got all the parts in , I ordered a sub harrnes from rywire and pluged everything in I spliced the wire on my coil plug so I could use my internal coil and extended all the plugs so they could go to their new location and I had to move my exaust up about an inch so it could fit on the new shorter downpipe I started it up and it ran like crap for about a minute then it started sounding a little better so I took it for a test drive and now here's where the new problem is. first the light for 3rd gear won't stop flashing, It doesn't shift at all but I can manually put it into reverse and I can get it to go into 2nd but it will not go into first but when I can finally get it going it has a lot more power . but power doesn't mean anything if you can't get it to go into first gear . so I broight it back so I could take a look at it and shut it off and couldn't find anything wrong with it so I thought I would take it into a shop so I could get some more info on what's wrong so I started it up and now it sputters really bad and I can't even get it to pull out of the driveway. Does anybody have any idea what's wrong with it?
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Old 07-13-2009, 10:43 PM   #12
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what check codes do you have
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Old 07-14-2009, 08:00 AM   #13
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look to amke sure the ecu they gave you is for an "auto". then run the trouble codes on your transmission. the light thats blinking in third i think means your auto tranny controller is bad. but you should run the codes and see what it says.
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Old 07-14-2009, 11:00 AM   #14
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I wasn't able to get it running good enough to take it to a shop to check the codes until about midnight last night . I put my old ecu on it and it shifts just fine ( I think its a p12) it runs extrmely rich and sputters a lot but I can drice it. It used about a quarter tank on the way to my house and that was about 10 miles I didn't smel any gas so I don't think its leaking and im not sure how to check if my ecu is for a auto I thought they were all the same because I was under the impression that 92s through 95s had a tcu . im thinking that somehow my p13 got fried because other than the shifting problem it was running fine until I shut it off yesterday
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Old 07-14-2009, 11:04 AM   #15
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Look in the ecu ref. Section it tells you how to tell an auto ecu from a manual ecu.in 88-91 ecus (PM6, PR4, PW0, PR3, PM7):
5spd = 000, 001, 002, A00, A01, A10, J00, J001, C01, C00
Auto = J51, J50, A50, A51, 901, A60, C50, C51, X30, A80, L50, L51

92-5 ECUs (P28, P30, P61, P72, P91, P08)
5spd = 000, 001, 002, 003, A00, A01, A02, C00, C01, C02, J00, J01, J02, G00, G01
Auto = J50, J51, 901, 902, C50, C51, C52, A50, A51, A52, L50, L51, G51

96-00 ECUs (P2E, P2P, P2J, P72, P73)
5spd = 000, 001, 002, 003, A00, A01, A03, C00, C01, C02, C03, J00, J01, J02, A11, C11
Auto = A70, A71, A72, A91, A92, C70, C71, C72, C91, C92

from the patterns we can learn the following:
first letter = country of orgin
J = Japan
C= Canada
A=USA
G=Europe
second digit, if 5, 7, 9 then ecu is auto usually
third digit denotes the version/variation
L = California emissions or typically high altitude states as well.

REP ME I THIS HELPS. THANKS
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Old 07-16-2009, 04:54 PM   #16
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this is prpbably a stupid question but how do you rep someone up?

I think I found out what the probelm is the computer they gave me is for an auto but its for 4ws I just don't understand why it worked the first day I had it out. It still flashes the dr4 light at me when I start it up with my old ecu hooked up
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Old 07-16-2009, 04:57 PM   #17
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just click on the little justice scales below the persons rep power, and you can pick to leave good or bad rep
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Old 07-22-2009, 06:54 PM   #18
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i dont know if its because im a noob but it only shows the scales under my name even when im logged in? i would rep u up if i could sorry

i finally checked the cel codes , (i didnt know you could just splice the wire and read the flashs) the codes i got were 5 and 41 on the p12 ecu so i redid the soldering on my o2 sensor , still throwing the code so i guess ill just have to get a new one . as for the 5 code i guess im just going to use the map sensor on my intake since the one on the firewall is throwing a code, but im going to have to wait untill i can get some decent wire to relocate the plug.

I did some reading up on the 4ws p13 ecu and from what ive learned it shouldnt have any effect on it if its not pluged in but it still wont start .Its acting like its just not getting any fuel, but i checked the codes on it, it threw a 22 so i bypassed the vtec oil pressure switch and now its not throwing any codes but has no effect. my guess is that the ecu is just a dud anybody have any better ideas?
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