Nixon0426

Heres the situation. The swap was done a year ago. Car ran fine other then the common idle surging that h22as are known for (1-2k) The original distributor went and was replaced recently. After that everything went downhill. The car wouldn't start half the time. So we took another p13 ECU and another td-60u distributor and tried those.

The car will start and idle but will not throttle up. The thing is, you have to advance the timing completely on the distributor to even get the car to start. When you give it throttle it bogs out and intermittently backfires like the timing is out. Compression and Leakdown tested the motor and had 220 across the board... Valve clearance is perfect (in 6, ex 8). Static timing is 100% and if you set the ignition timing to 15 degrees before TDC the car will stall as soon as you give it gas. the IACV was replaced as well as a throttle cable, fuel filter, water pump, timing belt, starter, alternator, and spark plugs. Another wierd thing is that if you SLOWLY give it throttle it will almost rev all the way through the rev range, but if you give it more then a quarter throttle it was bog right out.

We tested the main relay, MAP, TPS, ICM. All tests are good but still throw Code 9 intermittently for Cylinder #1 position sensor.



ANY SUGGESTIONS?!?!?

Nickg4c

Sounds like an ecu problem, are you sure it hasn't been chipped? How hot is the header getting when your advancing the timing all the way? I'd find someone you know with a p13 that runs fine in another car. Actually where do you live? I have one I could let you use for that. If nothing else it will rule that out.

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1997 Accord lx, Custom red pearl, one piece headlights, factory style tail lights, custom red pearl carbon fiber mirrors, H22A4 swap, Auto to Manual conversion, AEM cold air intake, ebay ceramic header, high flow cat, 2.5 greddy catback, 8lb fidanza flywheel.

G_Loc

Are you absolutely sure the TPS is fine?

I've had 2 faulty TPS sensors so far (One in my H23, another came with my H22). They were both showing the proper voltage at idle, but when you gave it gas, it would hit a dead spot where there was no voltage going through. It would bog and sometimes backfire when it got to these dead spots.

Attach a voltmeter and slowly open the throttle. Make sure that the voltage steadily goes up and does not cut out.

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