beano135

I recently bought a 1995 honda prelude se with auto trans and the H23A1. The guy before me spun 3 main bearings so it needs major work.
Now H23a1's seem to be about $750-1000 around me. I can get my Hands on a F22b That is currently in a 92 lude at a local pull-it-yourself yard for about 150 bucks.
* Will the F22b(92) bolt and wire right up in place of the H23A1(95)? or what needs to be done?

* Also was the F22b stock as dohc? The particuar one I was looking at was a dohc, i was wondering if it came that way or someone already swapped the head.

*does anyone have hp/torque specs for the f22? I wouldn't want to downgrade.
What does the F22b come stock in?

Sorry to start 20 questions... Thanks for any input!!!

beano135

maybe i should have just asked... whats the easiest/cheapest dohc swap?(i have a good h23a1 head).

beano135

Does anyone know what difference is on the 95 H23A1? Hollander lists it as a 95 only for interchange....?

beano135

Can I put a H23a1 head on a f22b block.

thats all I need to know cause my mains are spun.

Sigurd8404

What F22B are you talking about? Cause preludes did not come with an F22B engine. The S came with the F22A1, the Si came with the H23A and the Si-vtec came with the H22A. So if a '92 prelude has an F22B in it, it's a prior swapped motor. It could be a JDM F22B DOHC non-vtec, USDM F22B1 Vtec, F22B2 non-vtec or F22B6 vtec. It's kind of hard to know if it's an upgrade or not if you don't know what engine.

More info please.

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beano135

All the block says is F22B. nothing else. It is a dohc. So I assume it is a JDM that came in SI Preludes in japan from 92-96.
I just want to know if I can use my head, or even just my intake manifold(using the f22b block and head) and the same computer in my 95 SE h23a1.

beano135

My goal is to get the car running properly and cash effectively, to the be able to sell it and make some ching.
I'm not looking to make mods or make it go fast. Its an automatic anyway. just picked it up as a side project.

Sigurd8404

Quoted from WiKKeDV16 on www.cb7tuner.com
"H23a dohc head:
need to hondabond a corner of the head (blind hole) as a safety to make sure it seals good.. no biggie compression will raise to 8:9:1 or 9:1 forgot which due to the h23a head combustion chamber being 50cc instead of 50.5cc

besides that its direct bolt on"

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R.I.P. HM2 Anthony Carbullido, KIA 08 Aug 08, Sangatesh Afghanistan.
(See Avatar)
He was my instructor in Corps School Dec '06-Apr '07 and on 08 Aug 08 an IED took the life of the best Goddamn instructor I have ever known. He always seemed invincible. You will be missed but never forgotten.

Sigurd8404

I posted a reply but it has to get approved because it quoted another website with a link. But yes, your H23a head should fit on the F series engine. You'll get it running properly but you'll still have a frankenstein F/H motor. If you want to sell it and "make some ching." why don't you just swap the enitre F engine into your current prelude?

If it really is the JDM F22B DOHC motor than you're looking at 160 hp, 148 tq, 2156cc displacement and a 9.0: 1 compression. Your H23A has 160hp, 156 tq, 2259cc displacement and a 9.8:1 compression.

You'd probably have better luck selling a car with a real motor than a frankensteined one, but that's just my opinion

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R.I.P. HM2 Anthony Carbullido, KIA 08 Aug 08, Sangatesh Afghanistan.
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He was my instructor in Corps School Dec '06-Apr '07 and on 08 Aug 08 an IED took the life of the best Goddamn instructor I have ever known. He always seemed invincible. You will be missed but never forgotten.

beano135

ok. Well I pulled and purchased the F22b dohc and manual trans from a 1992 prelude yesterday. I am planning on just droping the whole engine in and probably using my old intake for wiring ease.
Question :
The h23a1 has what looks like a liquid oil cooler mounted at the oil filter location(thing that has two engine coolant lines running to/from), the F22b does not. I wonder if I should switch that over. Obviously the F22b didn't need it. What do you think?

beano135

this is what wiki has to say for specs:

F22B
This engine was used in the 1992-1996 Honda Prelude Si in Japan. It is similar to the H23A,.
Specifications

• 2.2L
• Bore × Stroke: 85.0 × 95.0 mm
• Displacement: 2156 cc
• Valve Configuration: DOHC, 16 valves
• Compression ratio: 9.3:1
• Max power: 166 hp (119 kW) @ 6000 rpm
• Max torque: 150 ft·lbf (200 N m) @ 5000 rpm

this is probably a good switch because the "premium gas only" h23a1" will be replaced. I don't think I'll need premium for 9.3:1.

Sigurd8404

The Wiki numbers are a little off. What I posted is off of a list on cb7tuner that was acquired from honda-tech. So I trust the numbers from honda alot more than the numbers from Wiki, considering I can go in and change those Wiki numbers if I feel like it.

Swaping out the whole engine, good choice! You can probably sell the H23 head to someone for a decent price, I'm sure someone out there is looking to port one out without having down time on there engine or something.

On the "oil cooler" note, I couldn't tell you. I've never done the swap myself. I can try to see what I can find out.

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R.I.P. HM2 Anthony Carbullido, KIA 08 Aug 08, Sangatesh Afghanistan.
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He was my instructor in Corps School Dec '06-Apr '07 and on 08 Aug 08 an IED took the life of the best Goddamn instructor I have ever known. He always seemed invincible. You will be missed but never forgotten.

BrutalB83

Honda-Tech isn't sponsored by Honda. It's just another Honda enthusiast forum like HondaSwap or CB7tuner. I don't know that I'd trust their numbers anymore then Wikipedia's or any other Honda-related forum...

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Sigurd8404

Fair enough! I'm not to proud or just plain dickheaded like half of the people around to admit I was wrong!

I went back and checked, and the guy off cb7tuner said he actually got it from top end motorsports, however I looked at the top end motorsports site and couldn't find anything to support it. However I do stand by my numbers, just due to the fact that I was looking into purchasing the JDM F22B engine for my '94 Prelude. And all the info I've gotten off of here, hondahookup and cb7tuner told me that those are the numbers. I had originally looked up my numbers for the engine on Wiki too.

I only know 2 people who actually have the JDM F22B engine in there Preludes, so they'd probably be the best to ask, but I haven't talked to them about how much hp, tq etc they have.

Thanks for correcting me on the honda-tech thing though! I'm an idiot sometimes! + rep for you!

__________________
R.I.P. HM2 Anthony Carbullido, KIA 08 Aug 08, Sangatesh Afghanistan.
(See Avatar)
He was my instructor in Corps School Dec '06-Apr '07 and on 08 Aug 08 an IED took the life of the best Goddamn instructor I have ever known. He always seemed invincible. You will be missed but never forgotten.

beano135

Well I have the engine in and have driven the car a few times.
I had to relocate/make a spot for the knock sensor cause the f22b doesn't come with one.
While driving it around it seems to have no power whatsoever at low RPM once the engine warms up.
I got the check engine light for the knock sensor(code 23). Turns out the JB weld didn't hold and neither does it conduct electricity to ground the sensor. I am getting a special bolt welded so I can screw the sensor into the block. I will then see if it runs better.
Hearsay says if the knock sensor isn't detected(or plugged in) the computer will automatically retard the timing to be safe/prevent possible engine damage, thus possibly giving me the lack of power? Do Honda ECUs work that way???
First I will go put the knock sensor in more properly today and update this if the problem is fixed otherwise I'm wondering what the next step is.
The F22B is similar enough to the H23A1 that I wouldn't need to change the ECU right? I used all the original manifolds and such so everything plugged in properly.
Any knowledgeable advice is welcome.

beano135

Well I properly mounted the knock sensor and even bought a new one just to try(@ $136.08) but after puting a few miles on it still acts funny. Example: after the car has warmed up and I come to a red light it will idle at about 500 rpm and then If I try to take off it will almost stall and take like 10 seconds to get moving, you pretty much have to nuetral drop it to start moving cause it will barely rev up if you're under 2500 rpm.
I'm going to give it a break for the day cause I'm sick of it. Tomorrow I plan to start swapping sensors such as throttle position and the coolant/oil(?), the ones on and near the passsenger side of the head.

I Only have ideas. Surely someone on here has run into problems/symptoms like these?

Maybe I nead to put the original cams back in, could be causing vacuum problems if the lift/duration is different...... WHICH DIRECTION DO I GO?

beano135

Nevermind guys. I figured it out myself. I checked the timing again after the engine was in the car and it was off a tooth. I put it back together and it works fine!
while the timing was off I used 8.8 gallons to go 52 miles, yeah thats right about 5.8 mpg! It is however much better now!