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Nah, haven't gotten it tested yet. Been real busy. Lotsa O/T at work. =) But dammit, I just received a letter in the mail informing me that my car has been seen emitting smoke. Damn narcs. I'll get the leak down sometime next week after I go down to Cali. How's the oil consumption on your...

Happens to me also... I just let it do it's thing and after awhile it'll shut off.

You said you replaced the bearings as well... might they be a little to thick?

What about the oil squirters for the pistons? I know the non-VTEC motors lack those. Has anyone heard of their pistons getting scorched?

Why would you want to do that? You go LS/VTEC for the low end torque that the LS gives you and the highend power that VTEC has. Installing b16 rods when you have the b16 head installed will ultimately make it a.... b16 motor.....

One way or another, someone who knows will know what they are looking at if you do grind off the vtec and leave the wire cover off. If you want a sleeper, go for the STOCK look with the hub caps and stock suspension..... yeah....

Warm up the car first to normal operating temp. Shut it off. Find the service wires and jumper the two. You can find out where those wires are from the label on the bottom side of the hood. Match up the middle red line of the three cuts. That should be about 16deg. before TDC on your b18 (if it...

Get a leak down test done. That way you can determine exactly where you are leaking oil from. If you intend to replace the valve seals with the head still intact, set the specific cylinder to TDC before doing so. Make sure that you have a good hold of the valve when you remove the keepers...

This is cool, but it's not. I'm having the same problem you are right now. My friend and I rebuilt a motor and now it smokes, but not so much as a... like say... a smoke machine. We tested compression and it all checked out to be within spec. We hadn't done a leak down test yet. And I'm having...

Drop by your nearest auto parts store and find any repair manual for any car and look in the engine overhaul section. It should give you some idea.

What you should do is write down that string of characters below the block stamp and call Honda or somebody who's got the resources and tell them the string of characters. They maybe able to tell you exactly what you've got. You could be sitting on a TypeR... :D

Hey Paulo... Does the block stamp actually say "B18C4"? Because from what I've read, seen, heard, and everything else in between is that the USDM Type R motor was labeled B18C5 and the JDM Type R was labeled B18C with no number at the end. I believe there is like a little serial number below...

Thanks for the info and your help. I'll take a look at that. That may not be my problem after all.

lsvtec has it. The reason why I need to know is because my B18A was shot, so I was able to get my hands on a B18B for cheap. The only thing was that I had to use my old intake manifold and everything else. Now, with this 'new' motor in, it bogs the living sh*t out of me. The 'new' motor only...

Sorry to be a little vague. What I meant was, did Honda reposition the fuel injectors so that they would be more or less vertical than the previous configuration? Hope that clears it up a little more. I know from the B17 to the B18C1 Honda made the injectors a little more vertical to aim it...

Here's a question that has been lingering in my mind for a while now. When Honda switch the Integra's B18A to the B18B, did they reposition the fuel injectors? I need to know because I replaced my B18A to a B18B but I'm still using the old intake manifold. Any help would be appreciated.