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What is the recommended amount of miles before a head must be retorqued? because i went from a 150 to a 120 psi range i am going to retorque it today but i wanted to make sure that that is the loss in PSI. i have a zc with arp head studs and originally i had put 65 lbs on them the first time...

LOOking for a socketable Pm6 HELP GUYS NEED INPUT!!!

Thanks mike Always good info from you once again

Hey thanks guys i replaced it and it looks like its fin im not getting a check engine light but the ecu still throws a 9 but car runs pretty good other than that

You guys are right but i really wanted your guys input on it compared to some one else talking about their Ls/vtec thats mainly why i asked the forum , also because a search and a website isn't going to tell me their experience

so help me out guys ive never hear anything about this i just know people are doing it and i guess its comparable to the b16 or the Gsr (what the hell is GSR Too) just looking for some info don't really know anthing about this!!! any help??

nope i am pretty sure they are the right ones thread size and length (of the stock 6.5 X 11 MM) but you just don't use the washers and were and are sold by ARP as the 204-4207 VW 1.8 liter but also say applications in ZC honda engines (JLIcrx is probably right the neon srt-4 are probably better...

hey thanks for keeping a good tone about the head stud thing and yeah i did check to see if i damaged it it looks perfect

Yeah i have the washers but there wasn't enough length and it wont mess up the readings that all the same i was more worried about the ability of breakage a sheering of the aluminum i have heard other people use the same thing without washers and still have no problems with torque readings and...

What? it should just bolt in like the Zc to a 91 Crx well are you using you stock mounts that came with the d16 or are you using civics mount and bolting it up?

if i don't use head stud washers what could enevitably happen

Rod KNock? i don't think i am but any who it throws a 8 then 9 code and it runs but it like doesn't do a very good job in higher Rpms and lacks all power yeah

did a head swap on my zc and the cps cel is popping up can i drive it without the cps input? and it not explode?? any help appreciated i need to know soon i have to drive to school (college exams) thanks in advance!!!

yeah i completely disconnected it thanks anyways

just swapped my heads zc>zc and i got every thing perfect put the engine when it turns over won't stop and it jsut sputters and then revs up till i turn the key off anY help is appreciated!! I just found out the CYL wire is cut could that be it???

i have a pg7 (i know mike get a pm6) with TE and ECU CONTROL and the xenocron usb cable the cable only came with three wires i don't know why it said it needed 4 one ground, one tx, one rx, and one 5+ volt but it only was wired with three?

I keep getting non sense reading like 153 miles and hour and 50 lbs of boost? Im using Turboedit with ECU control Whats wrong

27c256 & 29c256 what is the difference and will they both beable to be burned with the moates BURN1 chip burner

What is the CCs Cubic centimeters per minute? What liter honda injectors could i use and scale them down and still get a good high end flow for Boosted conditions Or is it just better to buy new like RC injectors do i really need 450cc injectors?? If i only want a projected 10 MAX and i mean...

aren't 440cc the stock 1.6 injectors? What are stock 1.6 injectors and what are stock 1.8 injectors in "CC"s?