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I'm not too sure on where you looked to find a new motor, but if you haven't checked www.HMotorsOnline.com yet, you should give it a look. Not sure what the shipped prices are, but B18b and B20b/z motors are $750 ea. With either motor, completely stock in your hatch, look to run mid 14's. Good Luck

Use b-series mounts. Should be an easy swap. LS ecu should work ok. To save on gas, use an LS tranny to keep the revs down while cruising on the highway. But yea, should be a fairly easy swap. Good Luck

Back to the original post. Even though I hate to be saying this because I hate BOTTLES, you should just squeeze. If all you want to do is hit 13's and and you're not going to take it to the track there'd be no reason to spend all that money to turbo your motor. Spend $500 on a NOS, ZEX, etc...

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe that the GSR cams have a longer duration (which is better for FI) than the B16 cams and I think the lift is generally the same. For FI, it is better to have a low lift, and long duration cam....just better for boost.

If you want to do this swap so that you can get 5-lug rims, don't waste your time and money. To get the 5-lug conversion would be sweet, because you strengthen your suspension, and you add 4 wheel disc brakes. But to get a 5-lug conversion to fit rims would be crazy. Way to expensive and too big...

H22 in a 4th Gen is too much work and a headache. For the power, get an LS and turbo. Easier swap, less headaches, and in the end more practical. Crank the boost and there's your power. Just my .02. good luck

IAC? Check to see what code the ecu is putting out.

A civic sedan weighs about as much as an EX coupe, so it's not that bad. With either an LS or B20 swap (stock) you can pull low 15's. Only reason to put a B16 in a sedan/coupe would be to turbo it and because it's cheap; about as much as an LS swap and to turbo it, but that motor is gutless when...

The GSR motor was only used in USDM Integras. Japan didn't have the GSR, unless you count the B17.

HASport makes a kit to convert either OBD1 to OBD2, or OBD2 to OBD1. Not really sure off the top of my head, but check out their website. It should help you out. Maybe, if you're lucky....they'll give you a discount on what you buy from then because you're going to have to buy mounts. If...

IMO....Sell the GSR short block and Turbo the LS. To answer your question, that is correct. Don't worry about using the LS tranny along with your GSR motor. It shouldn't hurt you too much, and if you do plan on turboing later on....the LS tranny will be perfect for a boosted GSR. Good Luck

What he meant to say is that the GSR wasn't made in Japan. It is a USDM motor only. And to answer your original post, give the swap a try. You can only learn if you try and the B-series motor swap in to an EG is simple. Since it is your first swap, allow yourself a good week incase of any...

For the price and overall everything, go with the b18c (IMO, go with an LS). CTR too expensive, and impractical since most motors that are swapped are going to be modded. So why pay $5000 for a motor that you'll be tearing apart? If you were to buy a B16B or a B18C5 it would more or less be a...

GSR cams for vtec turbo, LS for non-vtec turbo. Stock Honda cams are awesome, don't doubt the power you can make with stock honda cams. So save your money and give them a try.

If you're not going to boost more than 15lbs. you shouldn't have to do more than block guard you deck. It's cheaper than sleeving and more practical for what you're planning to do. If you want to boost more than that though, you should really invest in sleeving your block. Also wondering, but...

Shouldn't have any problems using that tranny. Just wondering, but what would make you question the reliability of that tranny? For cams, if you don't want to keep your stock B16 cams go with GSR cams.....best VTEC cam for FI. Other than that, don't bother with a new manifold, you really...