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Are you sure it isn't actually the TPS? It needs to be wired up in reverse for the ZC after the DPFI swap.

Heya kids, I'm organizing a New Year's meet for all the San Francisco locals. Hopefully you can make it, I'd love to meet the people who're actually interested in cars around here. Basic info: Jan 3rd (Saturday after New Year's) Parry's Pizza in American Canyon (near Vallejo) Invite your...

Well, the clicking is probably your main relay then. It's a relay of some sort, and the main relay is the only one I'm sure is on the driver's side. It could be the dpfi -> mpfi wiring, absoutely. Try to figure out exactly where the clicking noise is coming from without overheating whatever...

D-series transmissions do not work on b-series motors. The d16a1 is a less-aggressive d16a6 (CRX/Civic Si) transmission. You should be looking in newer Integras with b-series motors.

Exactly how many times does the ECU light blink? It should be similar to morse code.

I've got a whole writeup on Rice here: Rice | Madness Shop Manual I couldn't find a "perfect picture" so I just put up a video that pretty much sums everything up. Any special suggestions for a photo?

Also check your vac lines, make sure they're all hooked up. Is the ECU throwing any codes? There could be a number of things causing backfires, generally they're caused by running too rich (limp mode runs in a closed loop and enriches the circuit). Your o2 sensor(s, if it's an obd1 b18a1)...

As long as it's pgm-fi, it won't go over 9.

Yes, it will work... after you convert to mpfi. It's obd1 so it won't help you out here, unless you ALSO want to convert to obd1 at the same time. You may be biting off more than you care to chew here.

Yeah, Honda ECUs don't go over 10 same-style blinks in a row.

Be careful on Craigslist. Sometimes you'll find excellent deals, but you can't expect every engine to be trouble-free (even if the seller says it is). I like Celesta's advice of dropping a low-mileage b20 in (NOT a b20a, for your own sake). You'll probably end up spending around $1500 for...

My best guess is that you'll have to trim it a bit. I'm pretty sure the Integra is wider toward the top. You'd have to swap the whole steering assembly out, which may need a new way to mount it (I doubt the mounting bolts are the same), so you'll need a tap and die set or you'd have to weld it...

+/- one weekend, depending on how mechanically inclined you are. In all seriousness, it's pretty straightforward. Get an accurate, quality torque wrench and a service manual (along with a standard socket set) and you should be golden.

Swapping the front clip or just the firewall? It really all just depends on how good you are with a welder.

Welcome to HondaSwap, and keep up the good questions!

Your brake pump is just fine for Integra brakes. The difference is only in the front caliper size (and even then it's not a night/day difference). Check all your hoses and make sure you aren't bleeding pressure out anywhere (bleeder valves loose maybe)?

I've seen a lot of questions regarding the b18a1 into an EF swap, so I wrote up this article: b18a1 swap Madness Shop Manual I hadn't originally included the vacuum diagram, so for those of you who just want to know how to hook up the vac lines, head on over here: B18a1 CRX vacuum diagram...

normally, I'd argue that this is good use of the search tool, but since his post was largely useless, I agree. Don't post in someone else's thread unless you have something worth saying.

You own a p75, an obd1 ecu. The p3 came after your car.

What you've got: CRX DX wiring harness: Dual-point fuel injection (DPFI), obd0 b18b1: Multiple-point fuel injection (MPFI), obd2 90 pr4 ecu: obd0 Integra ecu b18a1 head and intake mani: obd1 (b18a1 obd1 versus b18a1 obd0) GSR headers: may not fit, vtec heads are shaped differently than...