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thought you said you were goin y8 ;) may as well have it all done at once, clean, with 2 plugs hangin there until summer.

Did it start throwing this code as soon as you swapped to OBD1? or did the car run perfectly OBD1 then just started having this problem? Code 9 is distributor related, have it tested or try a known good one. Code 41 is common for a disconnected O2 sensor or simply, bad O2. Replace or connect...

scrape terminals on the dizzy cap, dizzy itself, check timing.

You could have us do all the wiring: Rywire - Online Store Or you could convert the harness to MPFI - use the OBD1 Dizzy and injectors, don't forget about the fan switch change. Then use the OBD0 to OBD1 ECU Jumper and wire up your VTEC solenoid, vtec oil pressure sensor and oxygen sensor to it.

Well it's not like it's impossible, but if you have to ask, it isn't the best option for you. Nor would I suggest it, if you did each method yourself as we have - you would pick the stock harness from the 89 Rywire FTW

Do you really need to go 115? And what do you mean by "get the whole injector harness" - what do you have in the first place, a dpfi chassis? Rule of thumb is, JDM ECU's don't have speed governors. US does. You could always have KatMan chip it =) .: ECU.FF-SQUAD.COM : Info Center See rywire's...

The ground for the headlights is that little rectangular white box behind the headlight attached to the fender wall. That's the ground you need to check, that can cause the dimming. Especially if you painted the engine bay or something, you need to make a bare metal contact point for it to screw...

haha ;) next time go to the junkyard and pull one out of a car. What did you pay for it new?

hahahah =) Start reading. You can't do this swap without some serious knowledge, or a lot of common sense and inginuity. No it won't fit. K20A.org .:. The K Series Source . Honda / Acura K20a k24a Engine Forum Ryan's CRX Page Look at ryans parts list. =) this costs money far beyond the motor...

Start your own thread for your own question retardo. As for this thread, yes, HF harness will match a b18a. plug in everything and then plug in the PR4 ECU. Done. ;)

Rywire here. I suggest you do a d16z6 swap using an Si cable transmission. I like it, lil more pep than stock and super cheap to do. No motor mounts required. If you've got a few thousand to blow, GSR or ITR is the way to go, forget the b16 & b18a. Not worth it IMO. When it comes to adding a...

man, there should be something in the "new member" thread that tells people what a "dead post" is. Look at the last response to this thread man - over 5 weeks ago. And limp mode does not cause a rev limit - it causes a hunting idle.

90-91 teg shaft. 2nd O2 sensor is needed. Get another from honda if you want the original plug, if not, get a shitty one from autozone/kragens cheap and use a butt-connector or solder the right plug onto it. Checkout Ryan's CRX Page for more information. Ryan put lots of part #'s on there...

Yeah don't forget back-up switch wires to turn on your reverse lights. Checkout this how-to, it applies to your chassis as well. If some wires are diff. colors at the shifter, let me know. Auto to manual write-up: Rywire - Online Store

Boomslang doesn't do full DPFI to MPFI OBD1 conversions. That's hardly going to help this guy, that still leaves alot of wiring left to do that's over his head at the moment. DPFI to MPFI OBD0 conversion (SI or B18a): Rywire - Online Store DPFI to MPFI OBD1 conversion (d16z6): Rywire - Online...

Here's Ryans write-ups, good info for ya: Ryan's CRX Page And Rywire has a more complete wiring kit: Rywire - Online Store but it sounds like you only need the ECU Jumper: Rywire - Online Store And a discount code for a few bucks off. "myrywire" (yeah this month is slow, we want your business LOL)

The map and purge sensor wiring is on your firewall, part of the interior harness that you can't easily send to us. Sometimes this wiring will reach the OBD1 style MAP on the T/B, sometimes not. You'll have to extend these yourself. If there was a way for us to make an extension, we would =P If...

Alright, here's my thoughts about what's goin on here. 1. Stop obsessing over your ECU light 2. reikoshea has told you what could be causing that 3 times and you fail to understand what he's talkin about. 3. This is an electrical problem. 4. That means you need to use a volt meter and check...

Alt. wiring is the same. I say change the alternator or at least pull it out to be tested. Also check tension on that belt, maybe it's creating friction by being loose. Can't imagine it getting that hot, but i can imagine it stinkin =)

It's probably the alternator. It's probably generating just barely enough of a charge to stay running until you turn on accessories etc... It will fluctuate, so it's possible to charge normally, especially when the RPM's are high - then all the sudden drop off on deceleration. Please go back to...