Good question...I don't have a timing light however I did loosen the distributor and adjusted it forward and backwards and got no change in the idle sound. Ignitions is something I haven't messed with alot. Also, not sure if this helps...but it has gotten cold and the past couple days the motor...
Got the motor together and in the car...runs great. The only problem that I can find...if it is actually a problem is at idle it sounds like it has a small misfire /shrug. When you stand behind the car the idle doesn't sound as smooth as it should....it has more a puff puff puff puff sound...
Combustion stroke and Intake/fresh air stroke....so the piston needs to be at TDC 2 times per cycle.....and since the distributor can only go in one way with the notches it decides which stroke is which. Think I just answered my own question ...but to be safe someone give me the thumbs up or...
Hey guys had to replace the block on my wifes car.....before I removed the head I made sure the Crank was at TDC and the camgear siting pretty at its TDC as well...got it all put back together with the new block and I noticed. Every other TDC on the Crank the cam is at BDC not TDC....why is...
yeah I can still see the crosshatch in the cylinders...they look very smooth as well...in couple cylinders I can see some very minor wear vertically...but nothing I can actually feel......now at the top about a 1/8th inch where the piston rings reach there is a dark area that I can feel...seems...
Hey guys I am replacing the block on my wife's EG since she snapped a rod. (don't ask I have no idea lol) Anyways I have a spare D Series block that has about 120kish miles on it. How do I tell if I need to toss a new hone or have the walls rebrushed etc? Figured while I had the motor apart I...
I'm getting my Wife a 4 piece Pfaltzgraff Taffy Candy Christmas Dish set..and Platter. OMG DON'T ASK but that is what she asked for. So to make up for it I'm buying myself a set of forged pistons and eagle rods to go in my newly aquired B16b block.
Ok cancel that....I just had my old CTR block fall in my lap today so I'm going that route on my bottom end so I can now take the time to build it right.
Guys my GSR motor is pushing close to 200k miles and I"m going to have the block bored and put some oem oversized ITR slugs in it as well with future plans of some new additons to the head...perhaps a skunk 2 valvetrain and some cams....anyway should I even consider changing my rod and crank...
Thanks that is about what I was thinking. I'm sure if I run close to 11:1 then I will have better performance NA with the stage 2 over the stage 1 but when I am on the bottle the stage 2's will perform much better over the stage 1. Thanks for the suggestion
Looking to do a Skunk 2 stage 2 head build. Skunk 2 stage 2 cames, valve springs retainers etc. Basicaly I have been reading about needing a min amount of compression to make it worth going with the stage 2 cam. What is the ideal min compression number that I need to shoot for to benefit from...
Just checked out the site and I like what the guy does. Anyone else have his work on your cars and are pleased with the results? I like the idea that he take the TB and Mani and matches them. Not a bad price. I'm going to be doing the swap that I had the best luck with years ago ITR bottome in...
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