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unless the turbo is seriously too small or too big (like way out of effeciency range) then you'll make up in top end what you suffer in lag time, and vice versa. not 100% because your motor still has to flow the CFM's. however, you want to pick an efficient turbo. the T3/T04E 57 trim is about...

b18a = ls b18b = ls but with slightly more compression same block. no factory girdle like the b18c or b16

plus, i want to have vtec in both my cars. the beater, and the nice car. and by nice car, i mean my accord. F23 a woot.

there's nothing wrong with the b18a. it just doesn't have a block girdle so you can't really go high RPMs with it. toss a b16 head on it and you've got an LS vtec and they can make plenty of power. actually that's what i am building myself.

dyno time and tuning is no big deal. me and my roommate have tuned many, many turbo setups. uberdata, chrome, hondata, megasquirt, you name it. oh, and i decided to go LS-VTEC. no sense not to realistically.

most likely, when he did the swap he put a vacuum line in the incorrect spot, or missed one, or one could be torn. welcome to one of the largest nightmares on honda motors.

it's probably just a vacuum issue

wrong. LS vtec makes a VERY noticeable amount of power difference. not only because the B16 head outflows the LS head by a long shot, but because vtec works rather well with boost in many cases.

Yes I do. I can fully recommend them for anything they offer.

carsound (magnaglow) high flow cat. and while you're at it, get yourself a resonator (aka glasspack) from summit racing. about 18" is all you need. have it welded in front of your rear cat and your car will be QUIET and still flow like a charm.

oh good lord i am going to make power.

B series is always better. D series go clunk.

stick with a 57 trim T3/T04E and a .60 or .63 a/r that'll be a good quick spool and be streetable. don't buy turbos off ebay.

baddabing. he speaks the truth. its all about the power numbers. Injectors and Fuel Supply click there, then scroll down and see the chart. and don't forget to add the 10% based on the duty cycle necessary for turbo setups.

Garrett T3/TO4E 57 trim w/ .63 a/r $619 brand new (its a $900 turbo)

I do agree with the .63 a/r Your spool times will probably be about the same with a 3" turbo back as the .48 a/r on a 2.5" exhaust honestly. It's all about flowing the CFM's.

contact Zex to order their NMU directly. They just might let you do it.

I've got about 5 sets of cams that I picked up with my LS block. Actually I've got 2 heads, 2 intake manifolds, 2 fuel rails, and all the cams. None of which I intend on using since I'm doing a turbo LS/VTEC. But I'm curious how I might figure out exactly what motor each camshaft is out of since...

chances are after blowing the coolant hose and overheating, and the head gasket has been on for quite a while, yes its blown. it doesn't take long at all to pull a head. get yourself the gasket (OEM is fine) and some permatex copper gasket spray. spray down a nice coat on both sides of the new...

like a spider monkey?