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Tomorrow will be an obamanation and we'll never hear back.

Did you get this problem fixed? I have the same problem but the galloping idle occurs when the engine is warm so I don't think it's the FITV. I was running the vehicle on the old F22 ECM for awhile but this loping problem didn't start until I put the H22 injectors/ECM in. I have two H22 ECMs...

The absent D4 light is highly documented. You simply don't have it anymore. The only down side is that this is the light that blinks trouble codes fm the trans.

People have counselled replacing the Accord driveshafts with Prelude driveshafts after a F22/H22 swap as they believe the Prelude shafts to be heftier. Attached is a photo showing that a) they are both the same thickness and b)the Accord driver driveshaft is 1"+ longer than the Prelude's. I...

Hmm. Now would that be the Accord or Prelude manual. Wait, I own both the factory manuals and almost have them memorized as I've had this swap for over a year now! Of course tension is driven by the tensioner. When I swapped out the lousey Prelude tensioner for the H23, I had this in mind...

I'm looking for the link to the in-depth H22 timing belt install write up. This one talks about which pulley to turn to take slack up with and how to maneuver stuff to get belt on the correct teeth most easily. Tks, Bob

Take apart you auto shift console. You can cleanly remove a little plastic link in there that will bypass the lockup. Just toss it in the glove box if you want to install it later. One kick in the ass is that when you swap like this your "D" on the console doesn't illuminate. Unfortunately...

Do yourself a favor. To eliminate the chances of getting the electrics wrong, gain access to the rhs of the shifter and remove a little plastic member that is in the shift linkage. It's apparent which one to take out. Throw it in the glovebox in case you want to reinstall but this solves your...

Thanks, very helpful. For anyone else with this problem. Also, the top serial sticker on the ecu ends in J-AT (vs. J-M). Bob

Sorry to jump the thread but Tab, do you remember what ecu you had to use for the h22/auto trans setup. I've been using a P13 but it shifts all over the place. The F22 ecu actually works better. Pretty sure the TCU is OK. Bob

Just make sure you disclose the mileage and any problems. Otherwise, one of us will buy it and have to kill you and eat your head. :)

I'm still trying to resolve issues with the H22 ECU and my auto trans (with H22 TCU).

How do I tell the difference between an ECM for a 95 JDM H22 for a/t versus one for m/t. Serial #? I suspect the one that came with the motor may be bad as the F22 computer makes the vehicle run much better. Tks,

Is the compressor clutch engaging? The only other two areas to consider after your rework is the expansion tank and the valve. Where these replaced too?

I would have guessed the coil but if your cam really broke and isn't turning the rotor in the distributor, I guess that would do it too. Wonder what made it break?

I've got a 93 EX Wagon. Don't know about yours but I have disks all the way around. If you don't, the mod is worthwhile and widely documented. The rotors and bearings are all one big goopey system up front. I replaced mine once with no problems except I remember having to get pretty creative...

My EX wagon after the swap.

My EX wagon after the swap.

The car passed SMOG w/flying colors this AM. The only meaningful differences from before are that I installed the F22 injectors and ECU in place of the H22s. I've sent the h22 injectors off to get a good cleaning, backflush, new o-rings, etc. The cleaning outfit will provide me w/before and...