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problem solved, thanks for the help guys

well I went to a differant honda dealer, and the parts guy recognized my problem right away, there was a TSB on the issue a few years ago, the same thing was happening a lot to this model civec, there is a large test plug under the intake manifold, I had already had the whole harness apart...

I had planned on testing the alternator, and I did, it tested out fine, I started pulling the harness off earlyer, but my buddy showed up to put new spark plugs in his wrx, so we did that, and when I we went to test drive it he blew his tranny, so now I get to split my efforts between the 2...

well after talking to an online honda mechanic Im leaning more towards voltage regulator, looks like I will be picking up an alternator tomorow

Bump, the guys at Honda were as stumped as I am

pulling the plug on the speed sensor doesnt change anything, I have already tried that one, if I run it with the alternator plug off it runs perfect and everything works as it should except the speedometer, and the alternator, pulling the alternator plug is the only thing thus far that keeps the...

pull your spark plugs out and see what they look like, you may have a bad or dirty plug, an easy way to test for a spun bearing is to, with the engine cold, pull out suspect spark plug, take a plastic cloths hanger and break it so all you have is the long straite part and drop it down the spark...

hahaha, well Ive owned about 5 ef civics and CRXs, I switched to the 240 cause I wanted rwd and my wife still has her honda. I found a service manual for it last night, Ive done some troubleshooting, the fuse blows when the car is revved past 2500 rpm, if I rev it while its sitting, as soon as...

check the ground on your thermostat housing for tightness

Im having a problem with my wifes 1998 civic LX, its bone stock and now the Alt/speed sensor fuse located in the under dash fuse box keeps blowing, Its fine when I first put it in, its fine at idle, but as soon as I start driving the car, the fuse blows, and the lights start to pulse and the car...

this post needs to be deleted, sorry mods

hahaha, yes, well I got the new dizzy, installed it, and timed it, it timed out perfect, I pulled the jumper wire and took it for a spin, she is running good, everything feels better, no more lag, thank you guys for all your help.

having the ECU bolted down or not does not make a differance, if you bolted it down and it ran it may be because some of your wiring connections are bad and you temporarily fixed the problem by moving the wiring around

well Distributor # 6 has the same problem, when the car is cold timing is perfect, but when it warms up it slowly moves off where it should be, so it is the timing belt, the only problem is, Ive checked the timing belt about 8 times now, the timing marks all line up, its not my first D series...

yes but if the internals of the distributor are clocked incorrectly then the rotor may be off from where the cam pickup is then it would be firing at the wrong time.

well I found the plug, AllData was wrong, I called Honda and asked them, I jumped it and checked the timing again, its still off at full advance, Im bringing the dizzy back tomorow, and getting a new one, hopefully the last one.

ahh, now I get it, they are differant between 87-88 and 89-91, come to think of it, ive never timed anything but 87s and 88s, does anyone know if there is a way to check the dizzy to see if the internals are clocked right, I had to order this one and it took a week to come so I would like to...

interesting, well I now know my old compression tester is bad, I tested my SR and came up with 100, and then I checked it with my new one and its 155, now that thats settled, do you guys have any idea about this plug, or do I even need to jump the system, im leaning more twards bad Dizzy now...

you shouldnt have to, I checked the compression with my tester from work and it came out to 145 150 150 145 so its good, but I decided to check electrical timing again and its about ten degrees retarded, and the dizzy is maxed out, but im not sure this is a good reading, I know on a normal DX or...

I ran the engine up to norm operating temp (fan came on), I shut it off, I pulled no 1 spark plug, I screwed in the tester and I cranked the engine, it came up with 90 PSI, and it should be 150 ish, anything below 120 should be a dead cylinder, it idles too well to have 90PSI comp, or so I think.