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ok, well the firing order is correct, i have switched the 2 white wire once b4, but i will deff tryu tat in the mornin, kids are asleep, so now my battery is junk, and the ecu was stolen, so im going to have to go get a new pr4 and batt. but im deff going to change those wires again and try...

ji am telling you i have checked for 3 days straight now, no loose anything anywhere, and those grounds where the first thing i checked, but thanks for the support

evrything is right, i need a vacuum diagram to double check all of that, but thanks for the help so far

fuel pump primes, wiring is right, the spark is the major hold up, it has a new cap and button, it sparks on ocasion

its a brand new cap, and rotor, who checks dizzy's?

the timing at the belt is perfect, and i can really set timing at the dizzy until i start it, so im kinda screwed there

grind the ends off and when you go to put it back on just run a bolt

MPFI Swap use the mpfi harness, reverse what this tells you to do, and use the dpfi ecu, but sticking with mpfi is MUCH better

bump this up, i know you have all read it, cmon im ready to go whoop up on some stangs

cmon, anyone?

dont get an attitude over nothing, appearently your not to sure about the swap cuz your previous post show that, if you dont know how to run wires than dont try to make it, just blow 200 bucks on a hasport harness for a couple extra wires

there is a tab that says search click it, as for buying from hasport why waste money rather than waste money over 3 wires, as far as obd1 chipping, use CROME, it is the best out there for obd1 IMO

https://hondaswap.com/hybrid-ed-ef-da/d16z6-89-hf-76664/ there, next time dont be so lazy, and yes an si and hf are dam near the same concept behind swaps

not true, i keep my d's after swaps, 2 of them are out at machine shop now, one getting hot tank, and one getting a hot tank, bore, and balanced crank, i save them to buy shells and thrw a dropout in, but you are so right, if you pay 850 for a D your a moron, junkyard ftw

fuel pressure 45, no less then 209 in all cylinders, injector 1 to a1 inj. 2 to a3 inj. 3 to a5 inj.4 to a7 ground all injectors to integra resistor box ran red wire from inj res box to a15, moved c1 an c2 to b10 an b12 and ran the blu/grn and blu/yllw to c1 an c2, all hoses and sensors pluged...

fuel pressure 45, no less then 209 in all cylinders, injector 1 to a1 inj. 2 to a3 inj. 3 to a5 inj.4 to a7 ground all injectors to integra resistor box ran red wire from inj res box to a15, moved c1 an c2 to b10 an b12 and ran the blu/grn and blu/yllw to c1 an c2, all hoses and sensors pluged...

okay, all connections good, and in place, brand new plugs, cap and rotor, throwing a code 10 with the pr4, and a code 8 with a pm6, getting plenty of fuel, weak ass spark when it does spark, open to any/all opinions and comments

well, i truly do need to cut and weld the shift linkage, but you could be a better help if you tell me why it wont start, i am getting spark every now and then, not consistantly while cranking

and the only cel is a #10, wtf, cmon help

cmon help me out, wiring is perfect its a crx dx with a b18, im getting fuel, spark, and compression, its not timing, what the heck could it be