interesting... i just check my other friends crx and he his ecu is throwing a knock-sensor code as well but his vtec work fine.... engine light come on only after vtec kick in.... i dunno i might tell him change both knock sensor and vtec solenold
my friend has a b16a, odb0 i think? but the problem is the vtec is not engaging. i have tried runnig a direct wire from the ecu to the vtec solenoid, but no vtec yet. the ecu is throwing a knock-sensor code but that is not a problem. i think the problem is the solenoid. what do you guys think...
most serious racers used chipped ecu... and reg. racers... like if we buy the motor with the complete package (engine swap) then we get a jdm ecu..but i think chipped ecu is better... hehe
in my opinion... autometer gauge are CRAP. for example a couple of my friends has tech,boost gauge and the a/f one... all POS. the tech bounce on low RPM.... not accurate and the boost gauge is off by and like pissedoffsol said "their a/f guage is useless."
13s all motor is alot of cheese to mess with.... or you can add turbo to car with stock internal at high boost you can hit 14s (high and mid i think) and upgraded internal you should be able to hit 13 with no problem... or NOS
axel and shift linkage arent that much to pay... but sometime things sound too good to be true are usually scam? hehe but be becareful where you buying it from to us no job, still in school...1g is ALOT!
what are you gonna go for? daily driven? NA? Turbo? if your like me i have 2 set of rims daily driven 15" Rota Slipstream 205/15/50 and for summer time or for show/to mess around i got 18" Racing Hart C2 Evo 215/18/35 both are nice but the 18s are kinda high on the tires... but if you plan on...
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