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looking to buy b18a/b short block...don't need rods pistons, mainly block w/crank.

can someone comfirm this: i don't need a resistor box with 1st gen dsm injectors since im OBD-0 : 90-91 b18a1

damn that sucks, sorry dude...well today the administrators at skool walked around the parking lot and told everyone to go inside...they will probably do this the rest of the year so I shouldn't have much to worry about

friday nothing happened...maybe the rednecks are finally done....well last week of skool yay last day of skool i am thinking about the piss idea B)

never thought about that spot...good one

nice idea with the fox piss, however anytime i could get to their trucks is during my lunch and they have their windows up...however i told my dad about the delima <sp?...and anyways he kinda of said the same thing...fill up squirt bottle with some piss (free) and squirt it down the cracks...

yeah thats some what what i was thinking, i had this little computer camera that took pictures and video but i lost the damn thing somewhere....if it would have bin present today i had a nice view of the cookie flying over a few cars and landing on my hood....also another update i have for you...

alright this crap is pissing me off....its the end of the skool year, one week left and now all the rednecks are pissed off that we park over where they do (just me and my other friend with a hatch)....this morning they threw a cookie at my friends car, few seconds later another one goes flying...

(other then this site)

so boosting an ls, with upgraded pistons is good eh?...is that all he did after the install aftermarket wise...with the money i save with the ls swap i could easily replace internals with JE pistons/Eagle rods...time to search and find some information on the ls swap anyone suggest swap info sites?

compared to the ls-t, would the CRV-tec be a better route to go?...i read that it has more power, and with the b16 head needed to clear the hood and you get the added vtec power....the only problem i see with this is the lack of ability to upgrade if you don't bolt on the b16 head and just...

IMO...if your just going to have it as a track car then just build up the c1 real nice to handle a goood shot...however if your going to be driving it more on the road then just stay c5 N/A...like most swaps it boils down to what you would like to get out of the motor,its purpose, and cash

anyone have tips/opinons on doing this...i can get the complete swap and install for 1000, and eventually go ls-t rather...for the price of the b16 install i could build up the ls

bump

i found side skirts online that this guy is selling but they are for a 94 2dr coupe...he says they will fit the hatchbacks as well? this true?

what harm is done?...just got an unorthodox underdrive pulley for real cheap, its not installed yet...

alright so i bought an autometer water temp guage...unless im not hooking it up right its broke, however its probably me...the guage came with some brass peices that go in to the thermostat, i thought everything was cool untill i unscrewed the old senor and the autometer fittings threads didn't...

alright so when my car is just idleing nomatter if the engine is warmed up or a cold start my exhaust kind of puts every few seconds and my air fuel bounces to lean and then to rich real quick, im thinking that its because im running intake/exhaust with stock headers and its just an airflow...

thought about doing that exact same thing to mine, untill i read all the posts about the raspy shit sounding exhaust, i forgot about honda and back pressure also

alright thanks, will that also give me pull in every gear on the low end?